Screwed, Glued and Tattooed!! Who would do this?!?!

[franken]

B12 will take most anything off but leave original paint.

[REDROCKER652002]

I've used Goof Off when I took the emblems off my bike and there was some glue residue left. It worked pretty well, and a quick wax on the paint after and you would never know anything was there. Not sure if it will work for you, but that is what I did.

[NASTY-LSX]

WD-40 does wonders

[LT7A]

Vicente, that graffiti remover seems like a great product for what you need to do. If the pictures on the label can be trusted, it cleaned the labels on the mailboxes and left them intact as well as the paint. Might work to soften the tape adhesive too.

[Vicente Aceves]

I hadn’t thought about trying it on the tape and glue. It did work really well on that marker and the red paint, so yes I think I will give that a shot on the tape.

Thanks for the idea.

[LT7A]

I would use it on the black stuff on the hood and also try it on the adhesive residue in your interior. You asked about taking care of your paint, and I have a regimen I like to use that has made 38-year-old paint get smooth and look good. Not new, but good for its age. I gave a rundown on the #2 post in this thread:

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=819383

It would be cool to see the results as you get the stuff cleaned off your paint and start to bring it back to a shine.

[Vicente Aceves]

I am going to give it a go at the tape tomorrow. We’ll see how it goes.

LT7A, I just read your post about your routine bringing the paint back. I’m going to order those items so I can give it a shot. I didn’t even know there’re was a thing called iron fallout remover. What does it do?

Also, how do I know for sure if the paint on my pickup is single stage?

Thanks!

[LT7A]

Originally Posted by Vicente Aceves

I am going to give it a go at the tape tomorrow. We’ll see how it goes.

LT7A, I just read your post about your routine bringing the paint back. I’m going to order those items so I can give it a shot. I didn’t even know there’re was a thing called iron fallout remover. What does it do?

Also, how do I know for sure if the paint on my pickup is single stage?

Thanks!

If you have some sort of cleaner wax or compound, or even a mild solvent, pick a place on the exterior body like under the tailgate where you can rub it and it's not easily seen. And if a little bit of color comes off on your cloth, then you have single stage. If it was a clear coat, you'd be rubbing on the clear coat - no color transferring to the cloth. Iron fallout remover dissolves iron particles that get lodged in the paint. I originally thought it was just an effort to market yet another detailing product. But I watched how it worked on YouTube and when I got it, I could see a change in the paint just by using that product - the paint got a little "clearer" and more vibrant. I recommend Adam's for iron fallout. Most cost-effective. I also agitate it with a soft bristle brush before rinsing. Let me know if you want specifics on the other products.

[SCOTI]

One thing that was not mentioned & should be considered: What is your plan once the material & glue residue is removed?

If your plan is to paint or dye anything, don't use WD40 or oil based cleaners to dissolve the adhesive. They will wreak havoc if re-coloring interior pieces/areas where sprayed.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by Vicente Aceves

Thanks again. I’m going to try a small spot out of sight on the kick panel and a small spot on the ashtray lid and see what happens.


**This is a paint question but somewhat related**

What is the process to brighten up the paint on the truck? I’ve never done it and I don’t know if it’s rubbing compound or wax or something else?

It has overspray on the fender emblems so I don’t think it’s the original paint. I’d still like to preserve the paint that’s there. Thanks!

Grab a pint of Penetrol at Home Depot or Lowes, it works great!

[Vicente Aceves]

SCOTI, Thanks for the heads up on that. I didn’t have a chance to touch the interior today other than swapping the door locks for a set I got from the Lock Doc. The previous owner misplaced the keys so it never came with any.

I know it sounds shady, but this truck was a toy for him. It has a push button start and he had it garaged, so he didn’t care too much about finding the keys.

This worked out better for me, because the Lock Doc was able to find two sets keyed the same, so I can change the locks and ignition on my other pickup. It’s a 75.

Anyway. The graffiti remover worked great. Here are some pictures during the cleanup process.

[Vicente Aceves]

Came out pretty nice.

[Vicente Aceves]

The graffiti remover worked good on the outer grill and I used steel wool on the bumper.

[Vicente Aceves]

I don’t think I’m going to be able to get the red paint off the tailgate with the graffiti remover. I tried it but felt like I was spinning my wheels because the rag was getting pink but that’s about it. I kept at it but wasn’t making any headway. I think I’m going to need something stronger.

Is paint thinner an option? Or is that a no-no with the risk of removing the orange paint underneath?

..and it looks like I do have single stage paint.

Thanks.

[LT7A]

If you are going to speed up the process of removing the red by using a solvent, I would try mineral spirits first. Then paint thinner. Then brake cleaner. If all else fails then acetone. I don't think you'll want to leave any of these sitting on your pain for very long. Acetone and the brake cleaner will take part of the paint you're trying to keep but shouldn't go all the way through if you're careful.

[Vicente Aceves]

There’s definitely no rush for me to get the red paint off. My main concern body wise is the rust on the bottom of the doors and cab.

This may be a no brainer for some of you, but I’d like to know if it makes more sense, money wise to find some clean doors instead of getting mine repaired.

The reason I’m asking is because I was reading a recent thread titled Rust! where someone commented that an outer cab corner repair is around $1,000 at a shop. And the price goes up if the inner needs repair.

Generally speaking, if that’s true, then would door rust repairs be more expensive than to just find some good originals?

On the bright side, the fenders are solid

[Vicente Aceves]

I think I only have a picture of one of the doors inside.

[SCOTI]

Doors & fenders can be spot repaired & blended in to the surrounding material though so it depends on the situation. If original sheet-metal can be found w/o rust it can be the better option if doing a complete repaint. If it's staying together & not getting the Full-Monty, patch repairs get it done too.

[Vicente Aceves]

Thanks for the info. I mostly just want to stop the rust from getting worse. I don’t mind leaving the the problem areas patched. I wanted to clear over the existing paint anyway, so if I clear over repaired areas that’s ok.

[Vicente Aceves]

The goo gone worked on the dash. I had to use the graffiti remover for the part that was painted black. I had to cut it short so I wasn’t able to get it finished. I still prefer the cracked dash to the glued on carpet look.

[Vicente Aceves]

I got about 3/4 of the way done, but I forgot to take a picture of that. This is a picture about halfway through.

[LT7A]

It's coming along great!

[Vicente Aceves]

Thanks!

I got the rest of it off. I threw it back in the truck and put a dash insert in. I bought it from a member here but it got bent up real bad in shipping along with a dash bezel.

It’s for a Sierra Classic and probably not the right woodgrain for a 74 but it fits with the rest of the truck for now. A little beat up!