Rear shock relocation

[cj847]

I need to relocate my rear shocks due to lowering my truck. I see the kits available. My concern is the install. I've read some threads and someone commented "it was easy". I'm not seeing easy. I see a huge breaker bar and hope I don't have to cut the U bolts. I see a must remove bed to get at the upper mounts to get them removed without cutting my arm off.

Someone please tell me the process to make this "easy".

PS> I am actually thinking about the no limit kit in hopes it is easier to install, but I would like the CPP kit for the cost.

[68 P.O.S.]

The entire process is "easy", but parts of it are a pita. The hardest parts are grinding off the rivets for the stock upper shock mounts, and getting those u-bolts free. The "easy" you're looking for, will be to grind off the upper shock mount rivets and drive them through with a punch, and you'll likely have to cut those rusty u-bolts off.

The No-Limit kit is probably your best bet for this.

[Grumpy old man]

This thread should help . The easy part is when the bed is off , Replace those old U bolts .

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=795192

Parts on Amazon $37.60

https://www.amazon.com/Pickup-Reloca.../dp/B07MF76LN8

[jimijam00]

Use the No Limits kit and you won't have to worry about cutting off the OEM uppers. Just drill baby drill. I believe these place the shocks in a better position than the other types. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...Rear+Shock+Kit

[70StepsideC10]

Like said above one of the hardest parts is removing the rivets in the stock upper shock mounts. When I did mine I tried grinding the head off the rivets but it wasn't easy getting in between the ears of the bracket. Normally I grind an 'X' in the head of the rivet then punch it out with an air hammer, but there wasn't any room to grind the 'X'. So I opted to drill the head of the rivet, then knock it out with an air hammer. If you don't have an air hammer, I think it's worth the investment, it's much easier than beating on these with a punch especially when you are laying on your back under the truck. The nuts came off the u-bolts fairly easily, I think I just used a 24" breaker bar, but I sprayed them with PB Blaster a few times over the course of a day prior to removing them. Clean the u-bolt threads up with a wire brush before you try taking the nuts off too. And make sure you torque the nuts on the new u-bolts to spec, if I remember correctly the torque spec on those is quite high.

[Big Kev-O]

If you don't mind destroying the factory upper mounts it is easiest the side tabs off with a grinder so you can get access to the rivets. Then you can either grind or drill the heads off. I usually remove the head of the rivet and then drill a 5/16" hole into the rivet to make it easier to knock them out with a punch or air chisel. Do not drill all the way through the rivet. Just drill deep enough to reach the back head of the rivet so you punch has something to push against.

If you take a close look at Grumpy's picture you will notice the upper mounts are not spaced equally. The upper driver side mount is closer to the frame than the passenger side mount. IIRC this was to create space for the exhaust pipe. This bugs me so I drilled new holes on the passenger side so both shocks end up in the same position.

Good luck & be careful using the death wheel in awkward positions. I always wear gloves, safety glasses & and a face shield when using my grinder. We only get one set of eyes.

[Accelo]

If you have access to a torch you can heat the nuts on the "U" bolts.
Get the nut red hot and remove it with a impact wrench.
Not because you need an impact because it's faster and you can get the nut off before it cools. If the threads haven't been drug over rocks it works 99% of the time.
If they are damaged you can cut off the excess and still use the heat trick.
Propane doesn't work as well because it heats so slow.
The trick is to manufacture the largest heat differential, between the nut and bolt, as possible.

[Grumpy old man]

Originally Posted by cj847

I need to relocate my rear shocks due to lowering my truck. I see the kits available. My concern is the install. I've read some threads and someone commented "it was easy". I'm not seeing easy. I see a huge breaker bar and hope I don't have to cut the U bolts. I see a must remove bed to get at the upper mounts to get them removed without cutting my arm off.

Someone please tell me the process to make this "easy".

PS> I am actually thinking about the no limit kit in hopes it is easier to install, but I would like the CPP kit for the cost.

I see a mechanic in your future ... That's the easy way .

[A1971Blazer]

With a breaker bar and a 2 foot length of pipe...I was able to get one nut on the u-bolt to move slightly...
with a cut off wheel on my grinder..they came off easily...
replacement u-bolts are cheaper than back surgery...

[cj847]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

I see a mechanic in your future ... That's the easy way .

Yes, I'm thinking it might be $200 well spent......lol