Register or Log In To remove these advertisements. |
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
12-07-2021, 01:21 PM | #16 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Bremerton, WA
Posts: 171
|
Re: Anyone Using Cabover/ Slide in Camper with there trucks?
I have been researching this for awhile and this is what I found.
It seems that the vintage campers (60s to mid 70s) are lighter than newer campers. The newer campers can be really heavy unless you get the light weight models. The 80's and 90's campers were heavy and top heavy with oak framed cabinetry throughout located next to the ceiling. They also had bigger bathrooms that took up a lot of floor space and added a lot of weight. It all depends on how you want to camp. For wilderness camping, I don't need an inside bathroom, just a portable toilet to be placed outside or inside in a pinch. An outside shower bib is nice. I would find the narrowest camper I could find if I was going to be on forest roads, so I could pass another vehicle on a dirt road without having to find a pullout or back up to one to be able to get by. The modern campers with slideouts are extremely heavy (4,000 lbs) and require a one ton dually for stability while driving due to being top heavy. There are winter campers and these can be really heavy, but recommended if you are in that cold climate. The plumbing and the walls are insulated and they usually have double propane tanks. Taking a non insulated camper into a sub 20 degree camping is not recommended With a 7,500 GVW, you should be looking at loaded camper ratings of 2,500 lbs or less so you are under the 7,500 GVW with fuel, people, and water. This limits you to around an 8' cabover for most in the 70s-2000s campers, or a 10' vintage cabover. The older campers with the one piece fiberglass tops are usually leakproof and escape the water damage and dry rot that the other traditional campers have. These models are rarer, more expensive, heavier but worth it in my opinion. It is very hard to find a camper that is not water damaged and full of mold smells around the PNW. I have about three options of old campers for sale around here: 1. Has "minor" leaks and water damage; ave. price $1,000 - $2,000; these vary from full dry rot to limited dry rot and inside water staining and delaminating; all smell like pungent mold inside. 2. Has repaired roof leak but has evidence of water damage inside, ave. price $2,000 - $4,000. Usually some dry rot under repair, still some mold smell. 3. Stored inside all its life with no water damage. ave. price $5,000 - $10,000.
__________________
1969 Custom Camper C20; Factree Air, 350/TH400/Dana 70U with C30 wheel cylinders, Disk brakes, H4 conversion, headlight relay mod, 3G 135 amp alternator. 7500 GVW |
Bookmarks |
|
|