Grounding the coil etc.

[The Rocknrod]

Since my intake is powder coated I made sure the coil mount had no coating on them and ran a ground wire to the back of the engine (also no paint) to ensure a good spark. What do you think?

[hairball]

Looks good Rocknrod, but I don't think the coil needs to be grounded. Can't hurt though.
Hairball

[The Rocknrod]

Originally Posted by hairball

Looks good Rocknrod, but I don't think the coil needs to be grounded. Can't hurt though.
Hairball

That isn't grounding it? The coil wires aren't attached yet. What am I missing?

[cwcarpenter98]

The coil wiring handles the power and ground that the coil needs. Back before I switched to an HEI, I installed a new coil, didn't do anything to get bare metal from coil to bracket to intake, and my truck still ran good. Well, as good as it could have for being as worn out as it was

[The Rocknrod]

I'm running a ground to the coil negative, that's also is where the small body HEI instructions say to run it's negative wire to. There is also an electric choke on the carb that has a ground. So did I over do it again?
I mean it say's everywhere the coil has to be grounded, I figured . . .

[cwcarpenter98]

Hmm, I'm not sure. First time I messed with a points dizzy was over 6 years ago when I first got my truck running again. Last time was over 3 years ago when I pulled the engine out and put the regular size HEI dizzy in. Clearly, I'm no expert on the points side of life

[geezer#99]

Coil negative goes to the points in the distributor.

[Ol Blue K20]

Originally Posted by The Rocknrod

I'm running a ground to the coil negative, that's also is where the small body HEI instructions say to run it's negative wire to. There is also an electric choke on the carb that has a ground. So did I over do it again?
I mean it say's everywhere the coil has to be grounded, I figured . . .

There's no over doing grounds. It's like party, the more the merrier!

[PGSigns]

Do not ground the coil negative. That is not a ground lug. It is the terminal that the points or the wire from what ever distributor uses to ground the coil to trigger the spark.
Jimmy

[Just call me Sean]

The coil is triggered by the ground, the ground pulses. If you constant ground the coil negative it won't run.

[The Rocknrod]

Thanks guys, I'm sure I wired it correctly it's been running for 500 miles. I just pulled the engine to fix the oil pan leak and a few other stuff like a new exhaust manifold set, re-do the pump to carb fuel filter. So I had to re-route some wires to/from alternator, new spark plug wires due to the exh mans, new spark plug heat shields. The carb was rich so I had to get new metering rods and jets.
I just added the ground there cause I thought it may help.

[Just call me Sean]

The wire you show is fine. Unnecessary, it isn't doing anything, but fine. If you ground the coil negative terminal which it looks like you said you were going to do, that will not let the engine run.

[The Rocknrod]

I can go get the wiring diagram but two wires from the distributor connect to the coil + and -
Also from the ignition to the + on the coil. Off the top of my head. Oh yes the tach goes to coil -
I'll leave it anyway.

[hairball]

Hi Rocknrod, I think most of the folks posting here are assuming that you are running the old stock points/condenser type dist. Your modern electronic dist may be wired differently just the way you described it. If ran fine before, just wire it back the way it was. You can leave the added black ground wire if you prefer. FYI if you have the stock ignition harness, there is a resistor wire that goes from the ignition switch to the positive side of the original coil. This may not be needed with your system and should be eliminated.
Hairball

[The Rocknrod]

Originally Posted by hairball

Hi Rocknrod, I think most of the folks posting here are assuming that you are running the old stock points/condenser type dist. Your modern electronic dist may be wired differently just the way you described it. If ran fine before, just wire it back the way it was. You can leave the added black ground wire if you prefer. FYI if you have the stock ignition harness, there is a resistor wire that goes from the ignition switch to the positive side of the original coil. This may not be needed with your system and should be eliminated.
Hairball

Yep, no resistor wire.
For some reason I was also thinking the distributor might not be getting a good ground with a powder-coated intake and a gasket at the base of the distributor, cause I know the intake is insulated what with RTV and gaskets but now I remembered it that's not the only mechanical contact it makes in the engine.
I also wanted to make sure the spark is solid and thought that would help, but I guess it's over kill.

[Just call me Sean]

Originally Posted by The Rocknrod

I can go get the wiring diagram but two wires from the distributor connect to the coil + and -
Also from the ignition to the + on the coil. Off the top of my head. Oh yes the tach goes to coil -
I'll leave it anyway.

Yes, the negative for the coil comes from the distributor. That wire from the distributor gives a pulsed ground.

[seabeevin]

Twin prop,

The negative post is referred to as the "distributor" side of the coil. The positive side is key on ignition and (also) gets power while cranking. Depending on the application, it may have reduced voltage. A little bit of dielectric grease on your connections never hurts.

Single prop

[The Rocknrod]

Originally Posted by seabeevin

Twin prop,

...A little bit of dielectric grease on your connections never hurts.

Single prop

After the connection is made and tight, or before?

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by The Rocknrod

After the connection is made and tight, or before?

Doesn't matter. My dad used to put vaseline on battery terminals when he reinstalled them, and it made no detectable difference in cranking performance, even on 6V vehicles.

[seabeevin]

Originally Posted by The Rocknrod

After the connection is made and tight, or before?

I use it during assembly.
As a matter of fact, that's only way I was able to get my headlights to work on my 65.
Slobbered up the plug on the fuse block firewall connection.

Vin

[bigmoe]

I once pulled a big firewall wiring harness plug on a newer (90's) GM to find it slathered with dielectric grease, I assume from the factory.

[The Rocknrod]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

Doesn't matter. My dad used to put vaseline on battery terminals when he reinstalled them, and it made no detectable difference in cranking performance, even on 6V vehicles.

Originally Posted by seabeevin

I use it during assembly.
As a matter of fact, that's only way I was able to get my headlights to work on my 65.
Slobbered up the plug on the fuse block firewall connection.

Vin

Originally Posted by bigmoe

I once pulled a big firewall wiring harness plug on a newer (90's) GM to find it slathered with dielectric grease, I assume from the factory.

Alrighty then. We'll get it on there while I install it.
I used it on my spark plug boots with a Q-tip and the tad on the ceramic while assembling, as well as the distributor ends (carefully).