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#1 |
BlahBlahBlah
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Wa.
Posts: 20,139
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Bed question
I have a bed that is completely disassembled. Long box, steel floor. Im to a point now that I need to put it back together. I don't want to final paint it until its reassembled. Its not bare metal right now, and I dont really want to get that deep in to it anyway. But I was thinking maybe scuff up the areas that will be covered and wont be able to be painted when its assembled. What off the shelf product, spray can preferred would you use? Basic Rustoleum good enough?
I don't want to have to order stuff from Eastwood or Por-15 it. Bed wont be spray bed lined either.
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Modesto, CA
Posts: 2,189
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Re: Bed question
Obviously there's examples of these trucks holding together for years. However, I feel like rattle cans may not have the durability to hold up. Getting a small chip between mating surfaces when assembling the truck isn't a deal breaker, but moisture then getting in can make an unnecessary mess of paint too when the rust starts to creep.
I know you said no POR15, but that'd be my direction. On a side note, I did test spray painting a semi gloss black over a tacky drying POR15 inner fender, and I'll be damned if it doesn't look like powdercoat and way tougher than even the best prepped rattle can paint. I've dropped tools on them without any scratches. |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Sedalia Mo.
Posts: 1,131
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Re: Bed question
Since your not going all out and painting the individual pieces unassembled, I'd suggest painting the hidden areas with whatever paint you plan to use to paint the assembled bed. Just do the jointed areas and put it together. Then scuff/rough sand the over spray in the areas that show and paint over it.
If that is not and option, Rustoleum is a quality paint for spray bombs and will be much better than nothing (or just primer) . If you go this way, get some gloss, spray the jointed areas with a few coats, assemble, scuff sand the areas that show and will get final paint, prime and lay down final paint. Priming is important so that your final paint has less chance of reacting poorly with the spray bomb. Your approach is less than ideal, but I have had good luck with Rustoleum in situations like this. Let the spray bomb cure as long as you can before overcoating.
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He who is without oil shall throw the first rod. Compressions 8.7:1 1972 C10 1976 C10 (parts truck) 1985 K20 |
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#4 |
BlahBlahBlah
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Wa.
Posts: 20,139
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Re: Bed question
I was out in my garage looking through my old cans of spray paint and found about a 1/2 gallon of Rustoleum I brush painted my frame with. I also found enough paint that I used on a different project that you brush over a rusty surface and it neutralizes the rust. Ill knock the junk of and put a coat of that on and then a coat of Rustoleum. Should be good enough.
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Hampton Roads VA
Posts: 643
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Re: Bed question
I mean if you're going to take the time to scuff it and all, id get a can of 2k aerosol. Or just mix up some sealer and spray it.
If not, id do KBS. Not a fan of por15 myself.
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70 C20 Build link : Project Montezuma http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=794479 How to repair that rusted out 67-72 c10-c30! Please subscribe! https://www.youtube.com/c/MaycoCustomRestorations |
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