NO WONDER my truck has been so slow lately! Only 28º timing!!

[TIMSPEED]

So I went to check my total mechanical advance tonight...come to find out, it was pegging out at 3000rpm, with 28º advance!! No WONDER I've been getting popping through the exhaust when I let off the gas! So, I advanced it to get 36º advance at 3000rpm. Somewhere around 12º advance at idle. I'm about to go put some gas in it, and tune the vacuum advance canister. HOPEFULLY I'll be able to race my friends 78 C10, and THIS time pull away from him!

[79Silv4x4]

[Russell]

hehe, I have no clue where my timing is at... Might have something to do with my bogging, but my harmonic balancer slipped, so I can't check it...

[plumbcut]

why dont people get it- advance it until it pings then retard it slightly. end of story, no lights needed

pc

[Russell]

I did, but I also have some serious carb issues, so its kinda tough to get stuff working right

You can time it that way, like I have been, but you'll never get your optimum gas milage that way... I'd rather take an extra 10 and know for sure where my timing is

[Tom]

Originally Posted by plumbcut

why dont people get it- advance it until it pings then retard it slightly. end of story, no lights needed

pc

And say goodbye to about 10hp in a setup like mine. No thanks

[Grim Reaper]

Originally Posted by plumbcut

why dont people get it- advance it until it pings then retard it slightly. end of story, no lights needed

pc

Good way to burn holes in pistons. Not all detonation is loud enough to hear.

[plumbcut]

boloney. If your truck is running that lean you have other issues.. As a general rule of thumb- if youre working with a streetable driver, (not talking about hot rods or anything exotic) time it until it pings then back it off a bit. This will yield the BEST performance, mileage, driveability, etc... One thing- if your starter has trouble turning over the engine when its hot, and its not pinging, you might want to back it off a tad more... other than that, let 'er rip.

pc

[plumbcut]

The only thing is--- it will screw you on the tailpipe smog test.. if they dont catch it in visual, advanced timing creates a lot of HC at idle, and you will have to back it down to 10 or so degrees for the test...

pc

[swervin ervin]

This is or rather was, called power timing it. This was done by a lot of people back in the day. I've done it myself. But, it's not the best way of setting the timing by no means. It has long been known for best power, a small block Chevy likes between 32 and 36 degrees total. But, this isn't the total picture. You need to find the sweet spot where it is all in. A stock HEI usually takes 4500 rpm before you ever see the total centrifugal advance come in. This is bad for power. I have found through a lot of testing, my truck works best with 35 degrees total, starts at around 1000 rpm and is full in at around 3000 rpm. My intial is 13 with 22 in the distributor. Believe you me, I've tried just about every timing chart you can think of. The quicker you can start the mechanical advance, the better. The quicker it is full in, the better. Of course you have to accomplish all this without any pinging. I mean none whatsoever. Pinging is a very bad thing.

The above is what works for me, my truck, and my engine/drivetrain. This may not work for anyone else. You have to find your on combination, through testing. Running around not knowing what you have is foolish since it is so easy to find out by using a light.

[81shavedtrk]

Here is one for ya. The only time I ran my truck at the track all motor was with a safe 28 degrees (should be 40) and ran a 13.8 @99 spinning with a 2.2 60'. On nitrous I ran it at 20 degrees but will be moving it up from there to get the added bit I need. Shooting for 11's on the 15 of August.

[Grim Reaper]

You try this method of tuning I can gaurantee WORSE performance on a fuel injected truck. You attemt this on a ESC truck I can guarantee worse as well. Your dealing with knock sensors and the computer will start dumping the timing.

THis 70's methode of tuning is not any good and does not give any conciderations for fuel being off or changing grade.

Good luck if you want to try it but I stand by my statements and nothing good will come of this tuning method on a computer controled car and you risk at the very least power loss.

On a stock engine with stock profile cam I would stay close to factory recomended timing if you don't have the equipment to see what your total advance is.