Front wheels not centered in wheel openings

[Harrison.]

Is this normal? I can’t tell if it was accentuated by lowering it and 20” wheels. I can’t figure out how it would be adjusted?
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[Myself]

Unfortunately YES,.....it's normal.

[lolife99]

Porterbuilt sell a set of tubular control arms that move the wheels forward for really low static dropped or bagged trucks.

[special-K]

Looks fine to me

[cericd]

A flip to show the off-centeredness better. And yep, it's normal.

[Harrison.]

Originally Posted by cericd

A flip to show the off-centeredness better. And yep, it's normal.

Thank you for that, could not figure out how to fix it on my phone.


And thanks for the replies, looked wonky to me just wanted to make sure there wasn’t something wrong.
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[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Harrison.

Is this normal? I can’t tell if it was accentuated by lowering it and 20” wheels. I can’t figure out how it would be adjusted?
Posted via Mobile Device

Originally Posted by lolife99

Porterbuilt sell a set of tubular control arms that move the wheels forward for really low static dropped or bagged trucks.

While the Portebuilt 1" forward arms will definitely make a difference, you can also do the Caster mod to stock arms which will help. Lowering & trying to achieve modern caster numbers kick the top ball-joint toward the firewall. The more aggressive you go w/Caster, the closer it moves to the firewall. That being said, you want aggressive Caster numbers.

The Caster mod on the stock lower arms shifts the lower BJ's forward while keeping the uppers in the stock position. This mod negates using extra shims on the uppers for the modern/improved Caster goal. While it doesn't shift the C/L of the front hub as far forward as the PB arms would, it doesn't cost much to do vs. buying new parts. The additional benefits of the PB arms is improved geometry, Delrin bushings, & tubular construction (more rigid vs stock).

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ght=caster+mod

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=563219

[GASoline71]

Originally Posted by special-K

Looks fine to me

Same here...

Gary

[CC69Rat]

73-87 kmember swap will fix it too. But it's a lot of work. As others have said, it's normal on the 67-72s.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by CC69Rat

73-87 kmember swap will fix it too. But it's a lot of work. As others have said, it's normal on the 67-72s.

This is a new one on me.... How does the 73-87 x-member make a difference?

[CC69Rat]

The guy that had the Gold 69/68 Dad and I put together a few years ago owned a front end alignment shop. When I bought the truck, it was just a frame, cab, and 69-70 front clip. The truck was titled as a 69, but we swapped it to the 68 front sheet metal.

But anyway, we bought it with the front kmember already done. He told us it came out of an 84 Silverado. They swapped it over to get disc (of course) and the 1.25 rotors, etc. But he also told me the center line of the uca / lca ball joints was slightly more forward than the 67-72 design. The geometry is different, Steering, etc. I know enough about rebuilding front end stuff just to get by, basic alignment etc but it kinda makes sense. The 73-87 front swap is a direct bolt in, he told me you just have to drill 2 holes (?) Or maybe it was 2 per side. I'm old, and it has been a minute.

Maybe the way the kmember bolts in, square vs 67-72 is positioned slightly more forward? But the stock UCA / LCA are noticeably different and the suspension cycle, and / or compressed I can see where the earlier trucks cycle more toward the back of the front fender well than a true up/ down cycle, not changing the center line and position of the wheel as it cycles (if I'm making sense? It's early..)

But anyway, they swapped it in and this guy knew his front end stuff, that's for sure, .. old timer. No hacking on the frame or anything, he told me a direct bolt in other than drilling the extra holes. I have a 67 now with the earlier kmember under it and I still have some pictures of the 68 with the 73-87 kmember I can post up if it helps.

My best assumption would be the way the control arms cycle, more up and down with no lateral shift on the 73-87. And the 67-72 especially with a shorter spring will allow that cycle to shift the wheel back slightly in the wheel well. Just my .02

I didn't do it personally but.. Side by side at shows and stuff, there was a noticeable difference. My 4.5/6.5 ish static vs a similar 67-72.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by CC69Rat

The guy that had the Gold 69/68 Dad and I put together a few years ago owned a front end alignment shop. When I bought the truck, it was just a frame, cab, and 69-70 front clip. The truck was titled as a 69, but we swapped it to the 68 front sheet metal.

But anyway, we bought it with the front kmember already done. He told us it came out of an 84 Silverado. They swapped it over to get disc (of course) and the 1.25 rotors, etc. But he also told me the center line of the uca / lca ball joints was slightly more forward than the 67-72 design. The geometry is different, Steering, etc. I know enough about rebuilding front end stuff just to get by, basic alignment etc but it kinda makes sense. The 73-87 front swap is a direct bolt in, he told me you just have to drill 2 holes (?) Or maybe it was 2 per side. I'm old, and it has been a minute.

Maybe the way the kmember bolts in, square vs 67-72 is positioned slightly more forward? But the stock UCA / LCA are noticeably different and the suspension cycle, and / or compressed I can see where the earlier trucks cycle more toward the back of the front fender well than a true up/ down cycle, not changing the center line and position of the wheel as it cycles (if I'm making sense? It's early..)

But anyway, they swapped it in and this guy knew his front end stuff, that's for sure, .. old timer. No hacking on the frame or anything, he told me a direct bolt in other than drilling the extra holes. I have a 67 now with the earlier kmember under it and I still have some pictures of the 68 with the 73-87 kmember I can post up if it helps.

My best assumption would be the way the control arms cycle, more up and down with no lateral shift on the 73-87. And the 67-72 especially with a shorter spring will allow that cycle to shift the wheel back slightly in the wheel well. Just my .02

I didn't do it personally but.. Side by side at shows and stuff, there was a noticeable difference. My 4.5/6.5 ish static vs a similar 67-72.

Everything I've learned about this front suspension indicates it's a direct bolt-in because the geometry is unchanged. You can run 63-72 a-arms on a 73-87 x-member or 73-87 arms on a 63-72.

I've been studying & tweaking on C10's since the mid 80's & have never read nor heard where there was an update or revision to the Squarebody specific x-member geometry that changed the original design parameters.

I'm not calling you out but I definitely question/challenge that statement w/o further supportive information. I'm all about learning stuff so if you could ask him for more specific technical info I'd appreciate it.

[CC69Rat]

Opinions? This is a 73-87 swap. Stock 73-87 control arms. McGaughys 2.5" spindle and 2" Big Block drop springs. All new underneath, all Moog. 20x8.5. 255/45.

I don't know what it is exactly and the old fella is somewhere in Corbin KY or I'd ask him. I don't have a way to get in touch with him. But as I understand it he just bolted in the swap, drilled the extra holes and this is what I ended up with. Everything else is stock as far as I knew. (Sold the truck, so I can't really tell you for sure)

I'm always for learning too, and I wish I could tell you more but honestly man this is all I've got to offer. It would be interesting to research it though.