Dana 44 6 lug to 8 lug conversion

[A.Delaney]

Since I can’t find a Dana 60. Is it simple enough to convert my 44 to 8 lug or would it be better to look for a complete HD front end?

[mongocanfly]

D44 and corp10 are basically the same axle..
on a corp10 you have to change the complete outers..
The Corp10 1/2t & 3/4t are the same inside the Cs ,so all you gain is extra lugs..
The 3/4t axles are getting harder to find..
And unless you doing heavy offroad, a D60 is a big chunk of iron up front
Heres one of many articles on it
https://forums.off-road.com/threads/...-8-lug.105161/

[kwmech]

Depending on the year of your 44 it could be as simple as a backing plate and hub/rotor swap. You can even still use the 1/2 ton caliper over

[A.Delaney]

The plan as of now is 8” lift with 38’s and a 496” bbc. Should be around 700hp. The chassis now has a D44/12 bolt combo. I have a 14 bolt full floater for the rear now. I can get by with the d44 in the front but I would like it to be at least 8 lug to match the rear. It might look goofy with 6 lug in the front and 8 in the back.

[mongocanfly]

Yep..sounds like you need a 60 up front

[57taskforce]

If you are planning to use that HP with those tires off road in 4x4 you are going to want a front 60 for sure.

[Zoomad75]

I’ve done a lot of wheeling with a d44 up front. It really depends on what you are doing and if you are going to run a limited slip or locker in it.

38” tires are pushing it too.

I beat the snot out of the 6 lug 44 in my ‘75 K5 but it had a wheezy 350, but it was with a manual trans. So there was a lot of shock load hammering on and off the throttle. It was open and I can say that’s probably what kept it alive.

Fast forward to my ‘91. 8 lug 44 with a Detroit Tru-trac helical limited slip. It stated out with a stock 5.3L ls swap and a 700r4. Managed to break two right side shafts and a single left side shaft. The shafts broke on three different trips to Utah over three different years. All were not getting hammered on either. Got stuck or hung up on something and was literally just going into reverse when they broke. Each time.

I’ve had the 8.1L in with a 5 speed for over a year now. Same 44 up front. A handful of off road trips under its belt, including crawling in Moab. No break. But the manual allows a different amount of finesse that I didn’t have with the auto.

I’m really cautious to not give it the beans with the wheels cranked to one side or the other. I carry spares too.

It comes back to what the plan is and how you plan on using it. Chrome-moly shafts for the 44 are an option to add strength where it’s needed too. But they don’t expect them to survive long term with 37” tires or larger. The will warranty them if you are running 35’s or smaller.
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[A.Delaney]

Well I picked up a Dana 60 today. Finally found one that wasn’t a ridiculous price. I am thinking about running a Detroit Truetrac locker in the rear. I’m wondering how that would be on the street. Clunky going around corners? The rear is a 14 bolt FF.

[Richard]

Originally Posted by A.Delaney

Well I picked up a Dana 60 today. Finally found one that wasn’t a ridiculous price. I am thinking about running a Detroit Truetrac locker in the rear. I’m wondering how that would be on the street. Clunky going around corners? The rear is a 14 bolt FF.

That is a gear type diff, no clunking. Excellent on the street. Should be real smooth. Just be aware that those limited slips turn into an open diff if you lift a wheel or one wheel looses complete traction. A little brake can help the situation.

[A.Delaney]

Okay great thanks.