My AWD Build Thread

[jkohnz]

A tiny bit of progress yesterday. After spending quite a bit of time shifting the cab around to just the right spot, I drilled out the frame for the upper mount cushions to sit into, using a 1 1/2" hole saw. I'm also planning on drilling a 2 1/2" hole on the inside only of each frame rail to access the bottom cushions of the mounts. I decided to go with the 67-68 style mounts. I'm doing it this way to help with ride quality. Mounting the top section only isn't much better than just mounting it to the cab. Need to have a bushing in the middle to keep it from flattening, etc.





For others looking to do the same, I found that the measurements for the front mount holes from the original slots in the frame are 3/8" forward from the front edge, and 1/8" inward from the hole's center. See pic where I measured it out. Blue dot is where the center of the new hole is.



I then measured up and cut a notch on the tank mount for the left rear mount. Planning to build and weld a cab mount to the top of the tank mount.

[jkohnz]

Always seem to be too busy to work on this. No one else has that problem, right? So I built a cross bar for my rear cab mounts. I did this also so that I could put a driveshaft loop on in the future, especially since there is a saddle tank there, just in case. For the front mounts, I need to make a 1" tall bracket and weld it to the frame so that the body lines line up to the frame lines better. I also cut part of the brand new floor's tunnel for the transfer case to have plenty of clearance. I'm also continuing to use the 68 style mounts, but will be using a universal bushing for the bottom of the front mounts that isn't quite as thick. That's all I have for now...

[kjolivier]

How much wider is the chassis vs the old one? Love to see your mounts on the chassis before you put the cab down for good.

[Dr Jekyll]

I like where this is going. I had a 2003 SS Silverado AWD, it got stolen from an apartment complex parking lot on Easter Sunday. Anyway, I could never get it to do an all wheel burnout which which would have been awesome. Maybe, with less weight it will be possible.

[Andy4639]

I saw this just now on face book. Thought you may want to check it out. I have nothing to do with it just thought you may want to ask some questions are just look at the pictures.

Here is his FB profile page.
https://www.facebook.com/timothy.philips.7


1968 Chevy C10 SWB Step side pickup on a 2002 Cadillac Escalade frame and running gear. Its a 6.0 LS AWD with 181k miles with hydro boost and 4 wheel disc brakes and it even has stock escalade exhaust.

It looks like a old pickup but it runs and drives like a newer SUV. The truck has all new inner and outer rockers, cab corners, driver side door, passenger side door bottom, and sound and heat deadening. It also has brand new window regulators (passenger side still needs to be installed), tilt column, aluminum 3 row radiator, door handles, and window handles. I have built a bunch of the Crown Vic F100 trucks so I wanted to try something different. I love my 67-72 Chevy C10's, Which I own a few of them and I know how hard it is to find a 4wd for good money so I figured I would build one and what better to do an AWD 6.0. If you like your old Chevy C10's like I do you'll love this one. What better to have the old school look with the newer frame and running gear. Its the best of both worlds and you'll be able to use it like a truck you wont get stuck and you can even use the hitch. The truck will come with a bill of sale only. The truck is not a factory ac truck, so there is no ac components on this truck minus the compressor on the motor. Other than that there is no other ac components on this truck. So you will have to buy an aftermarket ac kit.

[jkohnz]

Originally Posted by Andy4639

[B][COLOR="Red"]I saw this just now on face book. Thought you may want to check it out. I have nothing to do with it just thought you may want to ask some questions are just look at the pictures.

Yeah, I've talked to him before some time back. I asked if he could send me some pics of how he did his mounts. I don't like to bash another guy's build, but it's not how I would have done them. They would make me nervous without having some of the weight on top of the frame instead of the side. There's always more than 1 way to skin a cat, so hopefully it all works out for him. I chose to make a full cross bar across my frame for the cab to sit on. Probably unnecessary or overthought. I still haven't finished mine, though...

Here's one of the pics.

[jkohnz]

Originally Posted by Dr Jekyll

I like where this is going. I had a 2003 SS Silverado AWD, it got stolen from an apartment complex parking lot on Easter Sunday. Anyway, I could never get it to do an all wheel burnout which which would have been awesome. Maybe, with less weight it will be possible.

Man, that sucks. I'm not so much worried about doing an AWD burnout, but I admit that does sound fun!

[notsolo]

Your project is coming along nicely, too bad the floor needed to be replaced, but the idea of working floor only is great, much better access and clean measurements off solid points. Undercoat the crap out of it when your done.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by jkohnz

Man, that sucks. I'm not so much worried about doing an AWD burnout, but I admit that does sound fun!

More HP is always the answer. Great project by the way.

I'm built my 1990 454 SS clone on a torsion bar chassis so I could make it AWD in the future. Still just RWD right now. Saving funds for the 4L80E rebuild and new converter so it can be installed to replace the currently busted T-400.

I am leaning toward using the NP241 from the 454 / 4L80E donor so I can drive it around in 2wd most of the time and switch it to 4wd when I want the extra traction.

Thinking about an Eaton E-Locker for the 9.25" IFS so I can set it up to lock when in 4wd and over a certain amount of throttle position.

[jkohnz]

2.5 months shy of 2 years since my last post on this...

It's sitting in my shop being neglected. I'm planning to, hopefully, get started on fixing my cab soon. The plan of attack on it is:

1. Bottom of the rear of the cab
2. Full floor assembly
3. Patch up kick panels, closing them off, and spots on the bottom of firewall
4. Smooth the firewall
5. Put the doors back on
6. Cab corners
7. Front lower pillars
8. Outer rockers
9. Patch various spots under the cowl
10. Install dash panel
11. Fix dents and rust in the roof panel

I still haven't finished my mounts for the cab to the frame. I'm constantly 2nd guessing the way I'm wanting to do it. But, I think I'm going with what I've made so far, just finishing it up, grinding down some welds and getting it attached to the frame. Once all of these mounting points are completed, I'll be stripping the frame to take it to a media blaster and then painting it. Or maybe powder coating, not sure. I've read so many mixed reviews on powder coating.

On top of that, I picked up a core 4L80E for $200 that has a front pump bushing worn out on it and a lot of miles. Previous owner said it drove and shifted great, just leaked out the front seal. He said if I got into it, and it needed more, he'd make it right for me. Not to concerned, because most of the rebuild shops around me want a $500 core charge. Saves me $300 either way. And, in the long run, the 4L80E will be much better than the 4L65E that it came with.

But, that means I need to mock up the floor again because it's longer. To do that, I need to build or buy a new trans mount cross member. I also then need to change out the input shaft of my NP149 transfer case to work with the new trans. I have a list of parts to get for the trans changeover, as well as repinning my OE harness. Already reflashed the ECU for the segment swap myself.

I keep telling myself it will get done someday. Here I am 4.5 years since starting this thread lol.

[72 tigger]

Keep plugging away, you’ll get it done