Drum to CPP 5-Lug disc conversion question

[D-n-Tyke]

Installing CPP 5-lug disc brake conversion on my 69 C20. Everything has gone well until it came time to install the hoses. 1st, the hoses are not the same thread as the hard lines. 2nd the hoses themselves are really long, 16in to be exact. I am worried that even if the hose threaded correctly on to the hardlines, that they will either rub on the rotating wheel or get pinched by the upper a-arm.

Anyone have experience installing this kit. Any input would be great. Pictures of a complete install would be very helpful.

Kit I am trying to install:
CP4CK-5 Front Disc Brake Kit
(BHK-R7 is the hose kit included in the above kit)

[Rust_never_sleeps]

I had to use an adapter between 3/16" hard lines and 1/4" hoses. (3/8 --> 7/16 nut) https://store.fedhillusa.com/ad234br.aspx off the shelf at O'Reilly
I haven't gotten to the step of clocking the lines so they don't rub, but there are plenty of threads about this.
Another option is to relocate the hard lines(or at least the ends) to the front of the crossmember, which allows you to use a shorter line. Nice thread here https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=823192

[Accelo]

The classic "Plug and Pray they work" system.
I had a system somewhat like yours, the exception was I moved the lines to the forward position. The same location as the factory disc brake lines.
I went through three sets of hoses till I found some that actually fit, no rubbing and not too short.
I cannot figure out, for the life of me, why the design is poorly executed.
The hoses the seller provided, with my system, were unsafe as shipped.
Also note the caliper is relocated from the factory location if the spindles are the lowering type. In my case, even the OEM replacement hoses were also too short because of this.
Sorry I am venting on the aftermarket brake systems. I am unable to provide any real solution to the issue except to keep looking for the best replacement hose option. Possible your solution will be in the archived threads.
Cheers

[Grumpy old man]

This thread may help .

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=818077

[D-n-Tyke]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

This thread may help .

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=818077

Grumpy. Following your advise I went to Autozone and picked up the 88466 hoses.
One thing I am noticing is it looks like your brackets are bent up much more than mine. Your hose looks like it is almost parallel with the seam of the crossmember. Mine is pointed down much more. When I turn my wheel full lock with the caliper turning in, the caliper actually hits on hose fitting at the crossmember mount.
Did you have to bend the factory bracket up at all to make your work? You mentioned needing to clock the hose, how did you clock it specifically, maybe that is another place I have it wrong.

Black Calipers is my set up. Red calipers are from your setup you posted. I tried routing the hose with the pre-twist to get it to go under the arm, but didn't like it, then tried it more like yours was routed but still ran into the caliper contacting that the hose fitting.

The last picture shows the hose contacting the caliper at full lock. This is with the control arms at full droop. When I jack the suspension up it actually drives the bleeder screw right into the hose at the crimped fitting.

Please help, I am getting very frustrated with this. If I would have know then what I know now I would have moved the lines to the front of the crossmember. But now that I have this money spent and the lines installed I need to make this work.

[Grumpy old man]

I used a triangle file to adjust the frame mount to get the brake hose to fit and route without any coil in it , I also used some hose chaff wrap to protect it , The drop spindles and brake caliper are 2 1/2" CPP brand with 1.25 " thick rotors and Stainless brake lines from Inline tube it all went together easily once I clocked the hose mount .

Ignore the dust , Everything in my garage is covered in dust right now .

[D-n-Tyke]

Thanks for the pictures Grumpy. Sounds like we are using basically all the same parts. Just for some reason my bracket looks to not be bent up vertical as much as yours looks. I did file down the hose fitting so it fit properly into the original bracket and I am able to clock the house.

I will go back out there tonight and see if maybe I have my toe alignment so far toed out that spidle is just rotating too far and that is why I am seeing such an interference problem.

[pjmoreland]

Do you have the CPP modular spindles that decrease the track width by 3/4" per side? Do you have rotors that are larger in diameter than stock? These two features would shift your calipers closer to the stock drum brake hose mounting brackets when steering inward to full lock. I hate to say it, but I just don't see how you are ever going to get those stock mounting brackets to work based on how extremely close (hitting) the calipers get. There's no room for the hose.

[D-n-Tyke]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

Do you have the CPP modular spindles that decrease the track width by 3/4" per side? Do you have rotors that are larger in diameter than stock? These two features would shift your calipers closer to the stock drum brake hose mounting brackets when steering inward to full lock. I hate to say it, but I just don't see how you are ever going to get those stock mounting brackets to work based on how extremely close (hitting) the calipers get. There's no room for the hose.

Thanks for the comments and thoughts PJ. While I am running stock size rotors and calipers I am running the CPP modular spindles (CP30106-HD2). So you make a good point of the track width narrowing. May have to route these hardlines for the front brakes over the crossmember so they exit up front. Really don't want to have to do that. Do you know if they make a bolt on bracket for the or am going to have to fab something up?

[pjmoreland]

I am not aware of a good bolt-on bracket. Doesn't mean there isn't one. I just haven't found it. If I were to do it again, I'd either look for OE brackets from a 71-72 truck and Weld them on, or I'd go with the 73+ routing where the soft line attaches to the side of the frame rail and has a clip that ties it to the upper control arm.

[D-n-Tyke]

Just wanted to give a quick update. After I had pretty much decided that I was going to move the lines to the front of the cross member, but having a hard time finding the correct fitting to make what I have work, I went and took one more look and what I had. Reviewing everyone else's pictures I kept noticing everyone's brackets were bent much more vertical than mine. So I bent mine up so the hose exited almost parallel with the bottom of cross member. All mys interference problems are now gone. I cycled it lock to lock, full droop, full compression and no pinching. I still need to find some anti-chaff wrap like Grump installed but Amazon is out of the right size. I will def be keeping a close eye on things

These pictures are at full compression.

[Ironangel]

The brake hose tab should locate on the front side of the cross member like in these pics. The hoses are bent for a left and right application at the banjo fitting. The fittings are bent to route the hose to clear the spindle and have a locating knob that locates and orients the banjo fitting to the caliper similar to the hoses in the pic.

[Warrens69GMC]

I will be doing this soon, thank you for the pictures.

[D-n-Tyke]

Ironangel, thanks for the pictures. If I was starting over with this project I would be buying that kit or similar to move the lines to the front of the crossmember. But since I already had all my parts, purchased years ago of course, I was trying to get what I had to work. With others saying they have successfully done the disc conversion with the lines on the back I think I will be okay, but will be keeping an eye on things for sure.
Thanks again though, as it might help someone else researching this, or (hopefully not) me in the future if I do end up having to move my lines.

[Rust_never_sleeps]

Just curious, was if from '71 onward that they started putting that goiter on the side of the banjo to align it?