4 row radiator.

[desert-rat]

Looking for a 4 row radiator without the plastic tanks. Who would you recommend? Thanks.

[Steeveedee]

I bought one a dog's age ago from O'Reillys before they changed their name- Kragen? Maybe they don't sell those anymore?

[dmjlambert]

I removed mine and replaced it with a 2 row all-welded and lifetime warranty aluminum one, because the radiator shop that worked on the 4-row one said it was fine for now but it is marginally good. I sold the 4-row one here on the forum. I believe people re-core them. It was going to be about $500 for me to have it re-cored, but I know some people here on the forum re-core their own. So it costs money. At the time I didn't have the budget to do that and didn't have the desire to store it, so I sold it. Up until a couple years ago there were copper/brass radiators remaining in various stores, such as Outback Truck Parts. But now I think they're gone. There has been a couple-year-long void where they were unavailable. Now some manufacturers (or at least one) are starting to make new ones. Here is an example: https://www.oerparts.com/product/crd1634a.html
I can't say I recommend them because I haven't used one of theirs, but it looks nice. The 2-row aluminum one is equivalent to the brass/copper 4-row.

[PbFut]

Champion has a decent 4 row. I also added their fan kit but now feel that was a mistake. A good factory schroud and fan set up is much more reliable and way less stress on our 50 yr old electrical system. Their radiator is very good.

[desert-rat]

Is a 4 row really necessary though? I pulled a 4 row today and it's rusted inside. I'm putting in a rebuilt 350 with edelbrock top end kit. Only the block and the crank is being reused. If a 2 row is sufficient enough, I'll go that way.

[WHYBYNU]

Last month I installed this radiator after reading great reviews on the board. It's a 3 core, Champion says it will cool a 600-800 HP engine. I have driven 300 +mile with the a/c running the past month in 100+ degree weather on highway and city traffic and never went over 190 degree's. I'm running the stock clutch fan and shroud.

[mr.mud1]

Originally Posted by desert-rat

Is a 4 row really necessary though? I pulled a 4 row today and it's rusted inside. I'm putting in a rebuilt 350 with edelbrock top end kit. Only the block and the crank is being reused. If a 2 row is sufficient enough, I'll go that way.

hi,i can't advise on what's required in your area,i do build my own rads here,buying new brass/copper style cores from Spectra-Premium.i do know my 72 big block,A/C,Cheyenne Super truck built in the Fremont,California plant and for the first 25 years of it's life,hauled a camper back and forth to Idaho,had and was built with a 3 row rad.i re-cored it cause some dummy dropped it and pierced the core(dummy was me)I could've used a 4 row core but i figured a 3 row worked,no need to re-invent the wheel.the tanks for the 3 row with accept a 4 row core.

[Jason Banks]

Originally Posted by desert-rat

Is a 4 row really necessary though? I pulled a 4 row today and it's rusted inside. I'm putting in a rebuilt 350 with edelbrock top end kit. Only the block and the crank is being reused. If a 2 row is sufficient enough, I'll go that way.

Those 2 row aluminum radiators are usually just at thick and probably more efficient than traditional 4 row. Instead of having 4 rows that are 1/2 wide each they 2 row aluminum are usually 1 inch wide each...

[PbFut]

I do not know which is more efficient, 2, 3 or 4 row. Seems logical that the higher number would be, given the factory used 4 on their bigger engines. In the recent 100+ heat the Champion 4 row/Spal system runs at acceptable temps with the AC on but it is clear that if I were towing I would probably have issues. With AC off, things stay well in control. I am looking into oil coolers, tranny and engine, to give me that extra heat sink needed to have no worries no matter the use, road grade, and air temp.

[CastIron]

I've been looking into radiators recently and have been considering a few different aluminum models.
This is the model I'm leaning towards:
https://www.championradiators.com/Am...roud-1967-1972
It's made in China, but a bargain for a 2 row with 1" tubes. I'm not 100% sure (maybe somebody can answer this) but I think it fits in the mounts for the 2 and 3 row original radiators.
I've also considered this one (mainly because the tanks look more original), but it does require the 4 row mounts and shroud:
https://speedcooling.com/product/196...inum_radiator/
If you want an original style 4 row, Summit does sell this one:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-382006

[LS short box]

On my 68 C10 LS swap I used an Afco aluminum. It was a generic LS. You can get them in standard SBC inlet and outlet. I think I got it from Speedway Motors. See pic.

[body bolt]

I replaced my failed original 4 core with this with the intent of getting the original repaired. So far it has performed very well with A/C and +100F temps which is a good thing as the local shops that did repairs have disappeared.

[MARKDTN]

If you are dead set against plastic tanks or all aluminum then I would find a local shop and have them use your tanks with a new core.

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by PbFut

I do not know which is more efficient, 2, 3 or 4 row. Seems logical that the higher number would be, given the factory used 4 on their bigger engines. In the recent 100+ heat the Champion 4 row/Spal system runs at acceptable temps with the AC on but it is clear that if I were towing I would probably have issues. With AC off, things stay well in control. I am looking into oil coolers, tranny and engine, to give me that extra heat sink needed to have no worries no matter the use, road grade, and air temp.

The reason factory rads a 4 row is the copper is a soft metal and doesn’t hold up if the tubes are wider . Aluminum tubes can be much larger I have a two row that has 1 1/2 inch tubes . Engine oil coolers are a good idea as the oil can carry away a lot of heat from the engine .

[weq92f]

Originally Posted by PbFut

Champion has a decent 4 row. I also added their fan kit but now feel that was a mistake. A good factory schroud and fan set up is much more reliable and way less stress on our 50 yr old electrical system. Their radiator is very good.

Indeed, I too purchased the CC369 w/the dual (generic) 14" fan and aluminum shroud (each fan rated at 1200CFM). Ended up not using the radiator, but instead mounting the shroud and fans on my original 4-core rad. While it did work and move air pretty good, it wasn't adequate with A/C on as at idle in summer, the temp just creeped up with both fans engaged.

I'm in the process now of an A/C update and purchased an equivalent set of spal 1850CFM fans. Those generics are now wall art.

BTW, the fans that Leadfoot racing ( champion's reseller ), the ones I bought from them, sell Online for 40 bucks each. The new spals were 180 each.

-klb