Wiring help!

[Fawnzie]

Hey guys, I just dropped a 350 in my truck and I'm in the middle of hooking things back up. A couple of days ago I just wanted to get it wired so I could just turn it over and see that it works. Didn't need to start just turn over. The engine is a 350 with an HEI dizzy. I bought a new fire wall harness and it has four wires, Green (temp meter), Black (ground) Purple (ignition) and Yellow (which from what I've read doesn't need to be hooked up). The starter (Powermaster Power Max) has three posts Big one (going into the starter) Second big one (attach the + battery cable to) and a post with a screw in it (to hook the purple wire to). So, I got the battery wire, the purple wire and the ground hooked up. I go to turn the key and nothing. Am I missing something?

[raidmagic]

The big one goes to the battery the one to the right, facing the front of the starter, is the purple ign. wire.

[Fawnzie]

https://photos.google.com/album/AF1Q...BqgjT7vj2yJ7y5

Yes i have seen that. When it says all big eyelet wires should go on that terminal, does the mean the black one too? it has a big eyelet. Here's a link of my starter and where things go.

[Fawnzie]

Here's the pic.

[Wrenchbender Ret]

There is no ground wire there. The black wire is probably a fuseable link that is the main feed wire. Hook it to the main + connection with the bat cable.

[Fawnzie]

Originally Posted by Wrenchbender Ret

There is no ground wire there. The black wire is probably a fuseable link that is the main feed wire. Hook it to the main + connection with the bat cable.

Sounds good. I'll try that.

[Cris]

"There is no ground wire there. The black wire is probably a fuseable link that is the main feed wire. Hook it to the main + connection with the bat cable."

That big black wire powers the starter motor! In normal operation you do not connect anything to it!

The Batt+ terminal is the main power for the starter. It is connected to the wire going to the starter (the black wire) when the "S" terminal is energized, closing the starter solenoid.

If you want to see if your starter is working, connect the battery to the Batt + terminal. Then connect the "S" terminal (the smaller terminal) to the battery (12V) supply and the starter should engage. An easy (safe) way to do this is with a bump starter switch. If you don't have one of those, use the proper wire from your ignition switch that comes on (12V) only in the ignition starting position.

[ray_mcavoy]

Originally Posted by Wrenchbender Ret

There is no ground wire there. The black wire is probably a fuseable link that is the main feed wire. Hook it to the main + connection with the bat cable.

I agree, the black wire is not a ground. And it does go to the main + connection along with the + battery cable.

But it's not a fusible link for the main feed wire. Instead, the black wire is part of the "Battery" gauge (ammeter) circuit. The other part of the circuit is contained in the headlight / alternator (or generator) harness (it's a black wire with a white stripe connected to the horn relay for 63-66 or a red wire connected to the voltage regulator for 62 (and probably 60-61 too but I don't have a clear diagram for those years)).

Anyway, having this black wire from the ammeter connected to ground could potentially damage the meter and/or wiring if the other end of the circuit was still connected to the horn relay (or voltage regulator depending on the year). But the black wire connection won't prevent the starter from working.

There should be a main feed wire that runs from the positive battery terminal, across the radiator support to the main power distribution point. On 60-62 with a generator, the main power distribution point is the "B" terminal on the voltage regulator. For 63-66 with an alternator, the main power distribution point is a small buss bar (2 screw terminals) on the horn relay. Then from there, a branch of the main feed wire should run into the cab (via the bulkhead connector on the driver side). That feeds power to the ignition switch and everything else in the cab. Finally, when the ignition switch is turned to the "start" position, it should apply power to the purple wire that goes to the starter solenoid. You can use a test light or voltmeter to follow the circuit from the battery, to the igntion switch, and on to the starter, checking for any bad connections along the way.

[Fawnzie]

Originally Posted by ray_mcavoy

I agree, the black wire is not a ground. And it does go to the main + connection along with the + battery cable.

But it's not a fusible link for the main feed wire. Instead, the black wire is part of the "Battery" gauge (ammeter) circuit. The other part of the circuit is contained in the headlight / alternator (or generator) harness (it's a black wire with a white stripe connected to the horn relay for 63-66 or a red wire connected to the voltage regulator for 62 (and probably 60-61 too but I don't have a clear diagram for those years)).

Anyway, having this black wire from the ammeter connected to ground could potentially damage the meter and/or wiring if the other end of the circuit was still connected to the horn relay (or voltage regulator depending on the year). But the black wire connection won't prevent the starter from working.

There should be a main feed wire that runs from the positive battery terminal, across the radiator support to the main power distribution point. On 60-62 with a generator, the main power distribution point is the "B" terminal on the voltage regulator. For 63-66 with an alternator, the main power distribution point is a small buss bar (2 screw terminals) on the horn relay. Then from there, a branch of the main feed wire should run into the cab (via the bulkhead connector on the driver side). That feeds power to the ignition switch and everything else in the cab. Finally, when the ignition switch is turned to the "start" position, it should apply power to the purple wire that goes to the starter solenoid. You can use a test light or voltmeter to follow the circuit from the battery, to the igntion switch, and on to the starter, checking for any bad connections along the way.

Cool. So I need to hook up the other side too it sounds like. How you explained it makes total sense now. Thank you guys for your help! I'll let you know how it all turns out

[Cris]

Just to be clear. I think people are talking about two different black wires.

The big black wire I am talking about is the one on the starter running from the starter solenoid to the starter motor. Nothing gets connected to that black wire or its terminal on the solenoid!

Your starter has two connections to operate properly, the Batt+ (goes to the battery) and the S terminal (goes to the ignition start switch).

[Fawnzie]

Originally Posted by Cris

Just to be clear. I think people are talking about two different black wires.

The big black wire I am talking about is the one on the starter running from the starter solenoid to the starter motor. Nothing gets connected to that black wire or its terminal on the solenoid!

Your starter has two connections to operate properly, the Batt+ (goes to the battery) and the S terminal (goes to the ignition start switch).

Yes. I have a smaller black wire with a big eyelet coming out of the wiring harness. That should go to ground if i'm not correct. The big black wire is part of the starter. It sounds like i need to hook up the alt side wiring into that smaller unit next to the old voltage regulator that i don't need anymore

[ray_mcavoy]

Originally Posted by Fawnzie

Yes. I have a smaller black wire with a big eyelet coming out of the wiring harness. That should go to ground if i'm not correct.

No, that smaller black wire coming out of the harness is part of the ammeter (BATT gauge) circuit and should NOT be connected to ground. Grounding it will create a short circuit that will burn up the wiring and/or meter. Instead, the big ring terminal on that small black wire should be connected to the BATT stud on the starter solenoid (along with the positive battery cable).

Originally Posted by Fawnzie

The big black wire is part of the starter.

That's the one Cris is talking about. And like he said, nothing else should be hooked to that.

Originally Posted by Fawnzie

It sounds like i need to hook up the alt side wiring into that smaller unit next to the old voltage regulator that i don't need anymore

Yes, that smaller unit next to the old voltage regulator is the horn relay. On 63-66 Chevy trucks, the horn relay has a 2-screw terminal buss bar that serves as a main power distribution point. Without that wiring hooked up, there will be no power feed to anything in the cab (including the ignition switch).

[Fawnzie]

[/QUOTE]Yes, that smaller unit next to the old voltage regulator is the horn relay. On 63-66 Chevy trucks, the horn relay has a 2-screw terminal buss bar that serves as a main power distribution point. Without that wiring hooked up, there will be no power feed to anything in the cab (including the ignition switch).[/QUOTE]

Thats what I figured. Thanks again! I think I got it from here, but, ya never know

[chevy_mike]

If you are using a factory wiring harness for the original points distributor, the wire running up to the coil is a resistance wire, to drop the voltage to around 9 volts, so it doesn't burn the points. When hooking up a HEI which REQUIRES 12 volts, using this wire will cause problems with not/hard starting and risk damaging the HEI module.

You will need to run a 12 volt wire from the ignition switch that is hot in both the Run and Start positions.

[JPTL]

Old thread - Hopefully I can get a quick answer from those in the know vs. starting a new thread.
'66 C20, repowered by the p/o with a Chevy 350 and HEI.
When it got the 350 transplant there was some less-than optimal wiring done. I'm trying to revive much of the original wiring, including replacing a universal ignition switch with a factory spec switch.
This is what I have:
The purple wire from the factory harness was connected to the SOL terminal of the switch, but seems to be disconnected. I haven't been able to trace it past the cab/interior. From what I can see in the wiring diagram, the purple wire is the bottom left terminal on the firewall connector - looking at it from the engine bay.
Nothing happens when the key is turned. For some reason, there was a push button starter wired up and mounted at the far left underside of the dash. One wire to this starter shows continuity to ground, and the other has constant 12v. Pressing the button engages the starter, regardless of the ignition position. Tracing the two wires, they go to the starter-mounted solenoid.
I haven't yet gotten under there to see exactly how these wires are hooked up, but I'm guessing that the 12v wire is connected to the big red hot lead on the starter and the other wire is connected to the solenoid start terminal (S?). Sort of like permanently installing a remote starter switch.
My main question is:
Was there originally a starter relay on the '66 C10/C20? I can't find one in the wiring diagram.
If no, is it common to add one?

[ray_mcavoy]

Originally Posted by JPTL

Old thread - Hopefully I can get a quick answer from those in the know vs. starting a new thread.
'66 C20, repowered by the p/o with a Chevy 350 and HEI.
When it got the 350 transplant there was some less-than optimal wiring done. I'm trying to revive much of the original wiring, including replacing a universal ignition switch with a factory spec switch.
This is what I have:
The purple wire from the factory harness was connected to the SOL terminal of the switch, but seems to be disconnected. I haven't been able to trace it past the cab/interior. From what I can see in the wiring diagram, the purple wire is the bottom left terminal on the firewall connector - looking at it from the engine bay.
Nothing happens when the key is turned. For some reason, there was a push button starter wired up and mounted at the far left underside of the dash. One wire to this starter shows continuity to ground, and the other has constant 12v. Pressing the button engages the starter, regardless of the ignition position. Tracing the two wires, they go to the starter-mounted solenoid.
I haven't yet gotten under there to see exactly how these wires are hooked up, but I'm guessing that the 12v wire is connected to the big red hot lead on the starter and the other wire is connected to the solenoid start terminal (S?). Sort of like permanently installing a remote starter switch.
My main question is:
Was there originally a starter relay on the '66 C10/C20? I can't find one in the wiring diagram.
If no, is it common to add one?

Yes, that sounds like a previous owner basically just wired up a remote starter button and mounted it inside the cab.

The original configuration would have had the purple wire running from the SOL terminal on the ignition switch over to the engine harness bulkhead pass-through connector. On the under-hood side of the harness, the wire (also purple) runs directly to the S terminal on the starter solenoid.

A starter relay was not used as factory equipment in these trucks. Relays are sometimes added to the starter circuit (some folks use Ford style remote mounted solenoids) to help with hot starting issues. Especially in applications where aftermarket headers and/or exhaust system runs fairly close to the starter and a heat shield isn't enough to cure the problem.

[JPTL]

Thanks Ray!
So I'll hunt down the purple wire in the engine bay side.