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12-07-2023, 09:23 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: Wayland
Posts: 16
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'87 GMC coil spring removal.
I'm putting lowering springs and spindles on my '87 R1500, so I need to remove the old springs/spindles. Here's my dilemma: I'm doing this on a rolling chassis with NO engine/trans/body on it. This chassis WILL be going under my truck once it's completed. That being the case, I can't use the jack under the control arm method to ease tension on the control arms to remove the old springs and install the new ones.
I've scoured the internet looking for another method (I also don't have a torch, so I can't cut the old springs out) but all I find is the jack under the control arm one. I've considered spring compressors, but aren't those kind of scary? Thank you! -Marc. |
12-09-2023, 10:37 AM | #2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Murray, Kentucky
Posts: 3,475
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Re: '87 GMC coil spring removal.
I actually used this one yesterday. The damn screw (long bolt) was too long for my springs so I found one from my harmonic balancer set (OEM 25053) had the same thread size but was shorter and I used that bolt with the other parts from the compressor. It worked well. If you try this make sure you use some antiseize on the threads, it makes life easier. I also used my impact to drive it. You have to take the hardened washers off of the compressor bolt and use them on the puller bolt. Make sure you break the lower ball-joint loose first. Loosen but don't remove the ball-joint nut until there's about a 1/4" gap and the use your favorite method to break them, I use a pickle fork and a b.f.hammer. Once the spring is compressed enough that you think there's no pressure on the lower arm you can remove the ball-joint nut and try to pull the spring. If it doesn't come out them you will have to take the u-bolts off of the lower arm shaft and take the arm off to remove the spring.
It was scary at first but no one died... Good luck, Rg https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...CLzPDFzfEe-0Xk https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...E&gclsrc=aw.ds p.s. I'd double check the screws in those sets to make sure they are still the same size, I know how companies change sizes over time... you should be able to use these on the loan a tool program.
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Roger '68 Short step - https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=849675 '69 ('70?) 2wd Blazer '70 GMC Jimmy 2wd '73 Firebird - https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=853203 Last edited by raggedjim; 12-09-2023 at 11:12 AM. |
12-09-2023, 11:13 AM | #3 |
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Motor City
Posts: 9,226
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Re: '87 GMC coil spring removal.
Take the control arm down from the middle.
Ie, undo the cross shaft u bolts and use your floor jack to ease it down, leaving the ball joint intact. K
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12-09-2023, 11:19 AM | #4 |
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Murray, Kentucky
Posts: 3,475
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Re: '87 GMC coil spring removal.
Thanks Keith, why didn't I think of that? It would be good to do if you are reusing the same spindles, but eventually he is going to have to break the ball-joints if he is changing to a drop spindle and I like to use the spring pressure to help pop the joint.
Keith, are you talking about not using the compressor at all? It would be faster and easier if you are. Those springs scare the bejezzus out of me.
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Roger '68 Short step - https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=849675 '69 ('70?) 2wd Blazer '70 GMC Jimmy 2wd '73 Firebird - https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=853203 |
12-09-2023, 03:13 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: anamosa iowa
Posts: 58,278
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Re: '87 GMC coil spring removal.
Loop a chain through the spring to give you peace of mind. They are not as dicey as say a 1958-64 GM car spring w/ those super tall coils.
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"Envy is a declaration of inferiority". Napoleon Bonaparte. |
12-09-2023, 05:45 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Ionia, MI
Posts: 199
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Re: '87 GMC coil spring removal.
I have a safe methoud but it only works with rides that have the shock going down the middle of the coil.
https://youtu.be/EAnL4LaaIfM?si=y4dKAhaianSEAuZ2 With a C/R I compress the lower A arm then get two 3300lb ratchet straps(with the dualhook) and have them pulling the coil up against the frame. The 2 straps go to the fender inside and the radiatior core support. Once again your compressing up against the frame ratcheting one then the other after you compressed it as much as you can with the jack. Your goal here is to your keep that coil as straight as possible so you can easily bring the lower control arm back up after switching out the spindle/hub. Idealy you just use the ratchet straps to hold the coil in place up against the frame. If your completely removing the coil then you can drop the lower A arm with the spring held by the straps . Then you can use compressiors that go on the outside of the spring to compress it a bit more leaving the hooks in place and set the compressed coil somewhere safe flat on the shop floor. Once your ready for the coil you put tge lower A arm up, position the coil, hook up the ratchet straps so the coil is pushing up against the frame, remove the outside compressiors, compress the A arm jooking everything back up including tire, then remove the ratchet straps and set the thing down on the ground. Someone is going to give me heck here. But getting a spring compressing tool inside that C/R coil is a pain then your really not compressing the spring much. By just having the ratchets holding the coil you can do the spindle with the coil pushed against the frame and not completely removed.
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1991 Metro commuter 1991 s10 future project truck 1987 V10 backup daily/junk truck 1985 K20 Winter beater 1991 R30(squarebody) c/c flatbed towrig 1994 s10 80"wb custom build Last edited by cerial; 12-09-2023 at 06:28 PM. |
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