1972 parking brake cable clamp

[lugnut]

Hi everyone-
I'm wondering if anyone can tell me if any companies sell the cable clamp that holds the parking brake cable to the foot assembly. I can find alot of places that sell the cables, and other clamps but not this particular clamp. Any leads would be appreciated. Thank you.

[rharris]

i looked for that part about 2 years ago and could not find it. Best of luck finding a reproduction and if you do please share, I would find a truck in a salvage yard. Chances are that piece is still there.

[TA_C10]

Bump. I am bringing this one back to the top. Anybody know where we can find this bracket or get one from another vehicle similar year like a nova or camaro? Any other vehicle come with this bracket? Or is there another cable that has a bracket that will work?

[BigBird05]

I found one in my "parts" bin. It is from a 67 C-10. It looks the same as in your photo. Its your if you want it.

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by BigBird05

I found one in my "parts" bin. It is from a 67 C-10. It looks the same as in your photo. Its your if you want it.

Awesome! I sent a PM.

[GMCPaul]

There is a difference between 60-68 park brake cable retainers ( yes 67-68 are the same as 60-66 ) and 69-72 park brake cable retainers. We'll have both styles available the 1st or 2nd week of November on our Brakes page of our website. Here's photos of the 2 different styles
60-68 Version Below

69-72 Version Below

Paul Jr @ GMCPauls

[TA_C10]

Wow. Now that's an answer. Thanks GMCPaul, I will be checking out your website today.

[randy.powell]

Sub'd...
RP

[jessemthompson]

Bringing back an old thread. Is this supposed to clamp the cable housing in place so it doesn’t move? Just received the part from gmc Paul’s and the entire cable housing moves. So my park brake pedal gets lower and the brake doesn’t set. Am I supposed to smash the clamp around the cable somehow so it won’t move?

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by jessemthompson

Bringing back an old thread. Is this supposed to clamp the cable housing in place so it doesn’t move? Just received the part from gmc Paul’s and the entire cable housing moves. So my park brake pedal gets lower and the brake doesn’t set. Am I supposed to smash the clamp around the cable somehow so it won’t move?

The clamp prevents the cable's exterior from slipping. The end fits into the cable just right, assuming the right parts. Make sure to grease stuff. My notes on it........Make sense or help?

• Release the pedal. Insert the cable’s spring wrap into the cable’s clamp so the clamp attaches to the pedal assembly’s front RH side. The cables spring wrap’s top seats against the “stop” on the cable’s clamp. The clamp mounts using the pedal assembly’s center hole, with the clamp’s tab inserted into the assembly’s bottom hole.

• The cable’s clamp secures to the pedal assembly with one (GR5) 1/2" hex bolt, hex nut and split washer. The bolt threads are 5/16-18 x 7/8”, and the head is stamped “D”. The assembly from the LH side is: bolt > pedal assembly > clamp > split washer > hex nut.

The cable retainer puller is shaped similar to a tuner fork. The puller mounts to the pedal assembly’s top hole with a clevis and cotter pin, assembled from the LH side as: clevis > retainer puller > pedal > retainer puller > cotter pin.

The front parking brake cable’s rubber sleeve positions on top of the LH front shock, and against the frame rail to protect those and the LH inner fender from the cable.

• The front parking brake cable inserts straight through the hole in the LH frame rail’s front outer wall. The cable secures to the rail with a spider spring clip. This clip can be removed using a hose clamp to compress the spring.

• The front parking brake cable retainers have a rectangular hole and are unstamped. The retainers install as:

o One retains the cable to the LH inner fender’s top using a (GR 5) 1/2" hex recessed head tapered bolt with spin washer. The bolt threads are 5/16-18 x 7/8”, and the head is stamped “E”. This retainer positions the cable nearest the firewall.

o One retains the cable to the frame rail’s outer wall, located approximately 3" rear of the front shock’s top. This retainer mounts with a (GR 5) 1/2" hex bolt, hex nut and split washer, with the bolt inserted from the outside. The bolt threads are 5/16-18 x 7/8”, and the head is stamped “D”. This retainer positions the cable at approximately 7 o’clock.

[jessemthompson]

I believe I’m going to have to remove the cable and squeeze that clamp tight around the metal housing of the cable so it does not move anymore.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

The exterior "nut" shouldn't slip through that clamp.

The cable's nut retains by the puller. Any necessary adjustments are done at the cable's stud, equalizer and two hex nuts. The rear nut simply tightens the front one.

Perhaps show a pic. of the clamp and cable.

[jessemthompson]

So the area I circled slide in and out of the clamp as I’m engaging the brake. The rest of the cable is set up like factory

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by jessemthompson

Attachment 2327263

So the area I circled slide in and out of the clamp as I’m engaging the brake. The rest of the cable is set up like factory

You don't need to "smash" the clamp or any other part. You're installing the clamp wrong.. The cable housing end butts up against the "finger" part of the clamp.. That finger prevents the cable housing from sliding toward the clevis.. Any needed adjustment to the cable is accomplished at the other end of the cable under the truck at the "Y" where it connects to the intermediate cable.

If the cable housing wants to travel back and forth with the cable itself, something inside the housing is causing it to bind. Could be rust, could be damage to the housing.. When disconnected at each end, the cable should slide easily inside the housing. When everything is hooked up. The springs on the brake shoes should be strong enough to relax the cable..

[jessemthompson]

I have the finger of the clamp in the hole as pictured and this is a brand new cable from inline tube. The cable moves freely inside of the housing. The entire park brake cable system is new from inline tube. I have everything installed according to how the factory ran them. Idk what’s going on because the front cable slips forwards and backwards inside of the clamp. I appreciate everyone’s help, I just don’t understand what I have going on.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Assuming it's assembled right............FWW, the clamp has to be pulled off the cable to pull the cable through the firewall. So if that's what you mean by smash it down, smash that (*)^^ down, with plyers on the flat sides - the bolt finishes her up.

If that doesn't do it the clamp or cable are wrong, more likely the cable, I'd think. Original clamps don't lie.

[jessemthompson]

It’s a clamp from gmc Paul’s. Aftermarket. So it could be the and more than likely is the issue. Thank you

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by jessemthompson

I have the finger of the clamp in the hole as pictured and this is a brand new cable from inline tube. The cable moves freely inside of the housing. The entire park brake cable system is new from inline tube. I have everything installed according to how the factory ran them. Idk what’s going on because the front cable slips forwards and backwards inside of the clamp. I appreciate everyone’s help, I just don’t understand what I have going on.

If the housing is moving back and forth through the clamp, it's probably because the cable is binding in the housing.. If you distorted the clamp enough to collapse the housing, that's your problem...

I'm not talking about the tab at the end of the clamp that goes into a hole in the kick panel.. I'm talking about the finger in the loop part of the clamp.. The cable housing goes through the loop, another way to put it is: the clamp wraps around the cable housing with the end of the housing touching the edge of that finger.. By design, the cable housing doesn't have any force applied to it that would make it move toward the firewall.. The force that is applied makes it "want" to move toward the dash.. That finger prevents that movement. The clamp does clamp down on the cable, but any great amount.

I disagree with those instructing you to "smash" the clamp.. If you collapse the housing, the cable will bind inside the housing and you'll have a mess freeing it up.. When the parking brake is released, the only thing that releases the cable is the springs on the brake shoes.. The cables (yes, plural.. There 4 sections that make up the cable assembly) have to be able to move freely..

----{EDIT}----

Have you installed all the clamps, there's more than just the one under the dash.. About 16 inches down the cable housing from where it passed through the firewall and enters the engine bay, there's a clamp that fastens the housing to the inner fender.. And another clamp is located near the upper shock mount about a foot before the cable housing passes through the frame.. Those 3 clamps should hold the cable housing securely and prevent any movement of the cable.

[jessemthompson]

I got it figured out now. The clamp is now securing the cable without smashing it

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by jessemthompson

I got it figured out now. The clamp is now securing the cable without smashing it

Sweet.

Rustypile, the "smash it" business was just kidding around. My only point was you have to pry the clamp open to pull the cable assm. through the F/W. And if so, the clamp has to be "Smashed" (not really), by closing the clamp's flat sides, so you can get a bolt through.

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

Sweet.

Rustypile, the "smash it" business was just kidding around. My only point was you have to pry the clamp open to pull the cable assm. through the F/W. And if so, the clamp has to be "Smashed" (not really), by closing the clamp's flat sides, so you can get a bolt through.

I realize some were kidding around, but when a person is thinking about doing that, he has to remember we're trying to help someone who doesn't understand how a particular system works (does its job), how the parts fit together, and many times don't realize the reason they have a problem is because they have assembled the parts incorrectly, very possibly have the wrong parts, and as we all know, some times the parts are of such poor quality, the parts don't fit properly..

Joking or not, telling someone to "smash the parts" is the last thing we want to tell them...