47-55.1 Anyone running Under Dash Brake/Clutch MC?

[Dongray]

Ive been considering an under dash clutch and brake MC setup but debating on whether the 90 or 180 degree system would be best. I was wondering if anyone on here had used either the Scotts Hotrods or Kugel systems and what they thought of them? Im really interested in finding out which setups will still allow you to retain the cowl vent operation and the wiper motor. Ive searched this forum and there is a fair amount of discussion but most links to pictures don't work anymore. It appears that a 90 degree can even include a booster but wonder about cowl and wiper operation. Thanks

[nvrdone]

it looks from the picture that one end of the wiper mount is in the upper right corner. Pointing right.
Having just put an electric wiper motor in my '49 it looks like you will have room for the wiper motor. Also, the vent handle is further to the right past the wiper motor so that shouldnt inter fear. I would buy a wiper motor and test fit it. then measure how much space you have to the left. Also you will have to figure out how to tie the fire wall into the dash so the m/c doesnt move. I hope you like standing on your head because you will be doing alot of it just putting the wiper motor in. LOL ! good luck and post pictures.

[leegreen]

don't do it

with wiper motor, defrost vents & hose, cowl vent, cowl vent arm brace, instruments, dash brace and steering column that space is pretty darn full.

Add two pedals dangling down and their brackets on inside of firewall, plus some modern wiring and switches, then add 3 hardlines for brake and clutch, I'm not at all convinced you have room for the reservoirs, and getting your hands up in there to add fluid or bleed it would just be a nightmare, especially when the seats were in.

And I don't want to even think about fitting a booster or hydrovac

It would make the brake master the hardest thing to maintain thing on the truck and doing anything under the dash something best suited for 25 year old yoga instructors

[dsraven]

haha, good humour there LG.
LG makes some great practical points there. also think about available space for the driver since the cabs are fairly small so by the time you install a comfy seat (low back to have more leg room) there is less and less room for legs and big feet if you are a taller fella . possibly bumping the firewall out (currently being done by a fellow on the site) for more leg room or setting the booster on the frame for more space under the hood would be an idea to consider. a hydroboost on the frame seems to be a decent idea to save space and have less reliance on vacuum working on a small diameter booster.

[Dongray]

I have come across more photos on FB and the under dash booster seems just way to large for my liking although it has been done by a couple. It appears it would need to modify the cowl linkage and perhaps reposition the wiper motor. Just seems way more obtrusive. see picture below
The second picture that was in the original post with the 180 degree setup has exterior remote reservoirs which I think would be the way to go. It would be way easier to fill and might just get away without having to modify or remove any other components....famous last words.

[leegreen]

hard to tell for sure but I think that master must be sitting where the brace and lever for the cowl vent needs to be

what are you trying to accomplish, a clean firewall look or do you need the space on outside near firewall for something else? There are lots of firewall mounted setups that work

I'd go with frame mount pedals and master before I put them under the dash

[Dongray]

Originally Posted by leegreen

hard to tell for sure but I think that master must be sitting where the brace and lever for the cowl vent needs to be

what are you trying to accomplish, a clean firewall look or do you need the space on outside near firewall for something else? There are lots of firewall mounted setups that work

I'd go with frame mount pedals and master before I put them under the dash

I have a straight six 292 with a manual T5 so between the clutch linkage and the booster/mc there was almost no room under the cab for the exhaust. I have seen people use heat shields but ran into issues with that not being always effective so figured I would just move everything.
If I had an 8 cylinder a firewall mc would probably fit fine but the ones I have seen from what I can tell would almost interfere with the air cleaner coming off the six. Im still not opposed to it but would need to find something where it is mounted further outboard on the drives side to clear the air cleaner. I also decided to go with a hydraulic throwout bearing so was looking at these combination pedals. The under dash isn't set in stone but just haven't found the right firewall combination that didnt look crammed on the firewall.

[leegreen]

That is a nice looking 292!

This is my truck, 250 with T5


Air cleaner clearance is an issue, the original to the engine late 70s style air cleaner would not fit, it hits the master. What you see here is the old oil bath from a '53 but gutted and with a paper filter in it. It fit but barely so I moved the carb mount point on it to one side for a bit of clearance.

If I built the pedal setup over again I'd shift the master outwards a bit.

A remotely mounted air box would be another option, or one of the filters from a late 50s car that mounts the filter further forward with a snorkel like top that fits onto the carb

[dsraven]

there are a few builds here that have used the frame mount set up with a hydroboost placed further back on the frame. like under the box. they have used the brackets etc and then the rod, that would normally go to the booster to operate the system, was lengthened and ran further back to operate the booster in it's new location further back.
start on post 73 here
https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...=283107&page=3

[leegreen]

I found a picture of the bracket I made for an external hydraulic slave, it saves room over the OEM linkage. An internal slave would save even more room, but this is a lot easier to work on.



You can buy similar ones from aftermarket
I used a slave for 88-91 GMC c1500 Excedy SC708
cut a carboard template, cut a plate, shortened the pushrod that came with the slave to fit.
This was also a fraction of the cost of adapting an internal slave to a similar bellhousing/adapter/t5 combo attached to the back of the 4.8 LS in my Sonoma