Cheap way to convert my 1968 chevy C10 to 5 lug rear drum or disc

[dmack91]

If yours has the coil spring rear, you will need a 71-72 coil rear if you want a direct bolt-in. In 73, they went to all leaf sprung rears. While you can use them (I've done it twice), you will need to swap the trailing arm perches and panhard bar mount onto the replacement axle.

[dagnabbitt]

Originally Posted by dmack91

If yours has the coil spring rear, you will need a 71-72 coil rear if you want a direct bolt-in. In 73, they went to all leaf sprung rears. While you can use them (I've done it twice), you will need to swap the trailing arm perches and panhard bar mount onto the replacement axle.

Yup, mine is coils, so 71-72 would be ideal. If I find a good one from 73-up I might consider swapping those parts, though. Would that essentially be the only difference?

I might luck out and find a nice one (with posi) and make it worth it.

[dmack91]

Those are the only differences I can think of. Not sure on driveshaft length or yoke as both I've done got new driveshafts.

[dmjlambert]

Just putting in my 2¢. Since the thread started out converting from 6 lug to 5 lug for cheap, the motive gear axles (I thought) were cheap. The differential pinion shaft lock bolt may be broken and you'll need to use an easy out to remove it so you can remove the C clips that hold the axles in. I was all-in for $300ish by the time I bought new bearings, seals, pinion shaft lock bolt, studs, and the axle shafts. I may have been slightly more if I had to buy an extractor kit for the differential pinion shaft lock bolt. I don't know how much they may want for junkyard differentials. I knew I wanted to keep my 308 economy differential, because other than being 6-lug it was what I wanted and the devil I knew.
https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=824884
https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=841065

[raggedjim]

Originally Posted by dagnabbitt

Yup, mine is coils, so 71-72 would be ideal. If I find a good one from 73-up I might consider swapping those parts, though. Would that essentially be the only difference?

I might luck out and find a nice one (with posi) and make it worth it.

I did this on a 64 when I was in the Navy. I cut the old perches off of the old axle and welded them to the newer one. Can't remember what I did for the panhard bar, but I do know some of the earlier 60's trucks had a mount welded to the axle tube instead of the stud mount on the center section. If I was going to do it again I would buy the adjustable bar and mount that fits on the passengers side trailing arm.


Good luck, Rg