Shaving and smoothing? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

nosto · 06-14-2002, 11:56 PM

I shaved (aka filled in) my antenna hole, cab fuel filler and door handles using a welded patch piece and finished with body filler.

I'd like to smooth (aka make disappear) the rear roof seam. Is that usually done with:
weld,
body filler or,
seam sealer?

Yeah, I know the usual next step is to shave the drip rails, but I just spent so much time filling those suckers with sealer I'm not going to touch them again!

PushinPebbles · 06-15-2002, 12:47 AM

Just fill it w/ drip check.......like you did w/ the drip rails...........
welding?!?! I guess it would work................i might just try it!
..................................Jack

Blue_71 · 06-15-2002, 01:06 AM

ive got a cab that that has been filled with body filler

chevyman 68 C/10 · 06-15-2002, 01:18 AM

The only way to know you will not have future problems with cracking is to use your mig and weld it ,grind it and finish with a light coat of body filler.

Chevyman 68 C/10

ryes 69 · 06-15-2002, 10:08 AM

I did my roof seam and dash(no dash pad)with fiberglass bondo 7-8 yrs ago NO cracking yet

XXL · 06-15-2002, 10:20 AM

Lots of varied suggestions so far, that appear to be working. The "pros" will likely tell you to weld it, and welding that line is pretty straightforward. So if you want to practically guarantee it won't crack (just before you do that $8000 paint job on it

), you should weld... otherwise, Drip Check sealer, fiberglass, or plastic filler all appear to be working for others.

Kenneth

chevyman 68 C/10 · 06-15-2002, 08:35 PM

I want to know ,with the price of primer, sealer paint and all those hours blocking , that I wont get a crack- no matter how small.

06-14-2002, 11:56 PM	#1
nosto Flamin' Bass Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Galloway, NJ, US Posts: 315	Shaving and smoothing? I shaved (aka filled in) my antenna hole, cab fuel filler and door handles using a welded patch piece and finished with body filler. I'd like to smooth (aka make disappear) the rear roof seam. Is that usually done with: weld, body filler or, seam sealer? Yeah, I know the usual next step is to shave the drip rails, but I just spent so much time filling those suckers with sealer I'm not going to touch them again! __________________ Rick Olson /nosto/ Galloway, NJ Pics : http://community.webshots.com/user/nosto53 1972 Triumph TR6 - full resto, now with a Toyota 5-speed 1975 F**D F-100 - rusty, but reliable 1982 HD XLH-1000 1967 C-10, shortstep, 350/M21 4spd, nitrogen tank fills fast bags on 4 corners, Toyo 255/45X20s on American Eagle 221 20X8s, shaved locks and handles, antenna, fuel filler, tiny C-notch, rear fuel tank, long headers, Edelbrock, worn 600 Holley, Checkmate flush hard cover, rear pan, custom LED taillights - painted it, too! But don't like it so I'm gonna do it again!!

06-15-2002, 12:47 AM	#2
PushinPebbles My dad's 68 Join Date: May 2002 Location: VA Posts: 444	Just fill it w/ drip check.......like you did w/ the drip rails........... welding?!?! I guess it would work................i might just try it! ..................................Jack __________________ Jack M. 67 C-10 SWB 355 built T-350 tranny hurst shifter 17x8in KMC's on michelins, clear tails and back up lights slammedUPDATE i have decided on my bag setup and will post further info when i recieve all the parts **************************** 88 1/2 ton suburban 4x4 350/700R-4having a 9 in lift w/ 38 in tires 4 12 inch Lightning Audios *************************** 87 silverado 3/4ton jacked up 10-12 inches black and rubberized bed coating 35 in michelans ************************** Dad's truck 68 C-10 stepside, 468 BB, tubbed, weld wheels, Nason black,lots more **************************** grand dads truck 68 C-10 stepside fuel inj. 350/700R-4soon in audi silver **************************** 84 toyota pickup 22R 5 speed 2WD slammed, shaved and all the body lines filled w/ buickGN scoop,bout to be sprayed in 2003 mustang green metallic w/ silver flames **************************** S/N=BIGGYTYME@aol.com (hydros) "No fat chics, truck will scrape"

06-15-2002, 10:20 AM	#6
XXL Señor Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Edge of the world Posts: 5,367	Lots of varied suggestions so far, that appear to be working. The "pros" will likely tell you to weld it, and welding that line is pretty straightforward. So if you want to practically guarantee it won't crack (just before you do that $8000 paint job on it ), you should weld... otherwise, Drip Check sealer, fiberglass, or plastic filler all appear to be working for others. Kenneth __________________ Craigslist \| ebay \| Engrishtees \| www.myattitudesucks.com \| Follow me on Twitter

06-15-2002, 01:18 AM	#4
chevyman 68 C/10 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Gilmer, Texas USA Posts: 313	The only way to know you will not have future problems with cracking is to use your mig and weld it ,grind it and finish with a light coat of body filler. Chevyman 68 C/10

06-15-2002, 10:08 AM	#5
ryes 69 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: wallingford,ct Posts: 121	I did my roof seam and dash(no dash pad)with fiberglass bondo 7-8 yrs ago NO cracking yet

06-15-2002, 08:35 PM	#7
chevyman 68 C/10 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Gilmer, Texas USA Posts: 313	I want to know ,with the price of primer, sealer paint and all those hours blocking , that I wont get a crack- no matter how small.



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