Lift installation advise wanted - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

9teen69 · 08-26-2004, 11:25 PM

I decided to go with a TC 6" lift from ORD - springs all around. Any advise on where to start or what to avoid so I don't end up doing this...

Mudder · 08-26-2004, 11:58 PM

Lube all the bolts a few days before ya start or just use a torch. They can be a pain getting loose. Use good jack stands and have a good floor jack for raising and lowering the axles. Don't get under the truck anymore than you have to. Be safe. Do the front then go to the back once you have the front finished.

Bobalouie · 08-27-2004, 08:50 AM

I have heard that after you install the springs that you will want to leave the hardware a little loose and tighten it all down after you set the truck back on the ground, in order to avoid preloading the springs. Does anyone know if that is correct? I will be doing a lift soon myself.

Mudder · 08-27-2004, 08:54 AM

Yes and retighten the ubolts after you have driven a week or so then do it again to make sure they are staying tight.

**JIMs70GMC** · 08-27-2004, 09:47 AM

Also if your not going to reuse the stock u-bolts/spring hardware cut it off you'll be ahead of the game for sure. I used an angle grinder made the job go so much faster. For hardware get an assortment of 5" long grade 8 bolts in 9/16", 1/2" and 7/16" w/ fine threads, washers and pinch nuts. If you have the bracket bolted/welded to the frame behind the front left shackle take it off, the strap in the front(same side) might have to come off also. Lube all of the bushings. Replace the bushings in the frame also.
Disconnect the rear brake line before you start the back.

cochino12 · 08-27-2004, 10:20 AM

And make sure you get a BIG HAMMER to get the steering arm off.

Scrubby · 08-27-2004, 10:37 AM

The trick I learned on the steering arm was to hit it down and up alternating. Not just up like you would think. Eventually the cone washers will walk out a bit and you can pull them out with pliers, then it comes off easy. Still, I think that was the hardest part of the job.

wildwood · 08-27-2004, 10:45 AM

My 6" Superlift came with a 4" drop pitman arm it works perfect and saves having to change the steering arm I would recomend that to anyone. You can also buy them seperately from Superlift. Can't find the email address of the guy I was getting the parts from though.

CHEVYJEFF · 08-27-2004, 10:53 AM

get cross over steering, if you can.
get extended brake lines
get hd shackels and greaseable bolts from o.r.d.
get new ujoints
measure for new drive shafts
multiple cans of pb blaster
bribe friends w/ beer
have a torch, saws all, grinder and cut off wheel ready
do rear first than front

**JIMs70GMC** · 08-27-2004, 10:53 AM

I had to heat my steering arm up with a torch and it popped off.

9teen69 · 08-27-2004, 11:57 AM

Thanks for all the great advise. I did buy greaseable bushings from ORD and stainless brake lines.
I started disconnecting the brake lines last night. I also want to remove the front calipers so I can replace the studs/lugnuts - after removing the hubs how do you get the caliper off - do I need a special tool?

Grim Reaper · 08-27-2004, 02:20 PM

Check the depth of the spring pins. Sometimes the pins will bottom out and not thet the sping clapm completly down. When that healles it is very easy to shear off the spring pin and have the axle move on you.

New U bolts all the way around but I'm sure Stephen advised that when you bought from him.

BE VERY CAREFULL ON THE FRONT SPRING PLATES. Stock GM front springs are 2.5 inches wide. the replacements will be two. You can bend thos top plates by over tightening.

Get full weight of truck on springs before tichtening everything up. That was mentison but it's very imortant. recheck that everythign is tight after a couple weeks of driving.

ORD BRACE is a must. It makes even a stock truck so much better.

If your going to run a sway get the ORD disconnects or your going to have bad bumpsteer.

A K5 is very goofy ballance. Have jack stands at the frame horses as well as under them. Because of the shape of the frame you cannot get the stands far enough apart. You drop the axle and the truck may try to flip back the other way. Depdog and I about dropped a K5 on ourselves because of that not once but twice. Darwin was gunning for us that day.

Have Come along handy. some times it takes a little coaxing to get things lined up.

9teen69 · 08-27-2004, 04:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grim Reaper

Check the depth of the spring pins. Sometimes the pins will bottom out and not thet the sping clapm completly down. When that healles it is very easy to shear off the spring pin and have the axle move on you.

You lost me here.

What is the "ORD BRACE" ?

**JIMs70GMC** · 08-28-2004, 10:58 AM

There's a pin/bolt that holds the spring pack together it also centers the spring on the axle. You may have to clean the head of the bolt a little to help it fit perfectly. you do not want to make the hole bigger or deeper.
The brace is a steering box brace that helps keep the gear box and frame together. This is a problem area on all solid axle chevys.

Grim Reaper · 08-28-2004, 05:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 9teen69

You lost me here.

What is the "ORD BRACE" ?

http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/steeringkit.htm

Fire up your truck and have somebody turn the wheels lock to lock and watch the steering box. That brace will fix the scary thing you see. With lift that gets worse.

08-26-2004, 11:25 PM	#1
9teen69 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Austin, Texas Posts: 1,048	Lift installation advise wanted I decided to go with a TC 6" lift from ORD - springs all around. Any advise on where to start or what to avoid so I don't end up doing this... __________________ 72 Cheyenne SWB C10 (daily driver) (Super fake cause I just love the glovebox emblem) 70 Camaro RS (frame-off in pieces) 70 Camaro RS (daily driver backup) 69 Custom LWB C10 (son now drives)

08-26-2004, 11:58 PM	#2
Mudder Registered User Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: East Central, MO Posts: 11,336	Lube all the bolts a few days before ya start or just use a torch. They can be a pain getting loose. Use good jack stands and have a good floor jack for raising and lowering the axles. Don't get under the truck anymore than you have to. Be safe. Do the front then go to the back once you have the front finished. Last edited by Mudder; 08-27-2004 at 12:00 AM.

08-27-2004, 08:50 AM	#3
Bobalouie Fetzer Valve Technician Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Stillwater, OK Posts: 205	I have heard that after you install the springs that you will want to leave the hardware a little loose and tighten it all down after you set the truck back on the ground, in order to avoid preloading the springs. Does anyone know if that is correct? I will be doing a lift soon myself. __________________ 1972 Chevy K10 SWB

08-27-2004, 09:47 AM	#5
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	Also if your not going to reuse the stock u-bolts/spring hardware cut it off you'll be ahead of the game for sure. I used an angle grinder made the job go so much faster. For hardware get an assortment of 5" long grade 8 bolts in 9/16", 1/2" and 7/16" w/ fine threads, washers and pinch nuts. If you have the bracket bolted/welded to the frame behind the front left shackle take it off, the strap in the front(same side) might have to come off also. Lube all of the bushings. Replace the bushings in the frame also. Disconnect the rear brake line before you start the back. __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm

08-27-2004, 10:20 AM	#6
cochino12 It followed me home? Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Yup Posts: 5,751	And make sure you get a BIG HAMMER to get the steering arm off. __________________ Adam That's why they call it a shortcut Kyle, if it was easy it would just be the way. 86 c-10 SWB 85 CCSB 90 GMC K30 Crew SRW 1985 C30 Dually

08-27-2004, 08:54 AM	#4
Mudder Registered User Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: East Central, MO Posts: 11,336	Yes and retighten the ubolts after you have driven a week or so then do it again to make sure they are staying tight.

08-27-2004, 10:37 AM	#7
Scrubby Check out GMTrucks.org Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Boise, Id Posts: 284	The trick I learned on the steering arm was to hit it down and up alternating. Not just up like you would think. Eventually the cone washers will walk out a bit and you can pull them out with pliers, then it comes off easy. Still, I think that was the hardest part of the job.

08-27-2004, 10:45 AM	#8
wildwood Registered User Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Calgary AB Posts: 110	My 6" Superlift came with a 4" drop pitman arm it works perfect and saves having to change the steering arm I would recomend that to anyone. You can also buy them seperately from Superlift. Can't find the email address of the guy I was getting the parts from though. __________________ You can't get out if ya don't get in

08-27-2004, 10:53 AM	#9
CHEVYJEFF Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: WYLIE TEXAS Posts: 232	get cross over steering, if you can. get extended brake lines get hd shackels and greaseable bolts from o.r.d. get new ujoints measure for new drive shafts multiple cans of pb blaster bribe friends w/ beer have a torch, saws all, grinder and cut off wheel ready do rear first than front __________________ http://members.cardomain.com/chevyjeff 57 2 DOOR HDTP 82 CORVETTE 90 V10 BLAZER 97 REGAL LSR 2100 (BOAT)

08-27-2004, 11:57 AM	#11
9teen69 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Austin, Texas Posts: 1,048	Thanks for all the great advise. I did buy greaseable bushings from ORD and stainless brake lines. I started disconnecting the brake lines last night. I also want to remove the front calipers so I can replace the studs/lugnuts - after removing the hubs how do you get the caliper off - do I need a special tool? __________________ 72 Cheyenne SWB C10 (daily driver) (Super fake cause I just love the glovebox emblem) 70 Camaro RS (frame-off in pieces) 70 Camaro RS (daily driver backup) 69 Custom LWB C10 (son now drives)

08-27-2004, 02:20 PM	#12
Grim Reaper Registered User Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Atlanta GA Posts: 1,704	Check the depth of the spring pins. Sometimes the pins will bottom out and not thet the sping clapm completly down. When that healles it is very easy to shear off the spring pin and have the axle move on you. New U bolts all the way around but I'm sure Stephen advised that when you bought from him. BE VERY CAREFULL ON THE FRONT SPRING PLATES. Stock GM front springs are 2.5 inches wide. the replacements will be two. You can bend thos top plates by over tightening. Get full weight of truck on springs before tichtening everything up. That was mentison but it's very imortant. recheck that everythign is tight after a couple weeks of driving. ORD BRACE is a must. It makes even a stock truck so much better. If your going to run a sway get the ORD disconnects or your going to have bad bumpsteer. A K5 is very goofy ballance. Have jack stands at the frame horses as well as under them. Because of the shape of the frame you cannot get the stands far enough apart. You drop the axle and the truck may try to flip back the other way. Depdog and I about dropped a K5 on ourselves because of that not once but twice. Darwin was gunning for us that day. Have Come along handy. some times it takes a little coaxing to get things lined up. __________________ Grim-Reaper 70 Pontiac LeMans Sport Convertible, worlds longest resto in progress Looking for 71-72 2wd Blazer or Jimmy Project

08-28-2004, 10:58 AM	#14
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	There's a pin/bolt that holds the spring pack together it also centers the spring on the axle. You may have to clean the head of the bolt a little to help it fit perfectly. you do not want to make the hole bigger or deeper. The brace is a steering box brace that helps keep the gear box and frame together. This is a problem area on all solid axle chevys. __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm



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