valve cover baffles

[76bonanza]

I am about to get new valve covers. My question is it come with baffles but they are not installed. Do you have to run the baffles and if you dont what problems with they cause?

Thanks

[swervin ervin]

You wouldn't have to run them I don't guess. The reason they don't install them is some drag racers don't run a PCV or breather, yet a vacuum system. Also they have no way of knowing what hole a buyer wants to use as a oil fill hole. They use screws to hold them on and are not hard to install.

One thing is for sure, on a street engine if you don't run them, you will suck oil out the PCV and pressure will let oil migrate up into the breather. IOW's, if you don't use them, you will for sure have a big oil mess before long.

[76bonanza]

Mike

How hard is it to fill oil thru the hole with the baffle in place? If I need them on both the PVC and the Breather then I will have to fill oil thru one of them?

Are they really easy to install?

Thanks

[PHOENIX]

If you buy cast aluminum valve covers they will most likely bolt on from the inside. I would highly recommend modifing the oil input one as in the picture below. If you buy stamped steel covers they are most likely spot welded on the inside and you should drill a hole in one of them for oil input. Some baffles really restrict oil input and can be a major PITA. I agree with Mike you want baffles for street engines or oil will be everywhere before long. I would also recommend modifing the passenger side baffle and using a push on breather or the stock pipe to air cleaner. The PCV can be used on the drivers side with the non-modified baffle.

These baffles came with my Billet Specialties cast valve covers, but they are typical of cast type valve covers.

[76bonanza]

Why the breather on the passenger side? My PCV is on the passenger side because my carb port is on the passenger side?

Will it be ok if I modify the drivers side with breather and unmodified passenger side with PCV other wise I will have to run the carb hose around the carb to other side.

So to modify you just cut off the middle bar? and that will let oil flow better for filling but still baffle enuff to stop sucking up of oil?

Any other tips for the install or just remove old covers clean head flange good install new gasket and install new covers?

Thanks for your help

[76bonanza]

One more question on my steel ones I used spreader bars to spead the load on the gasket. But the aluminum ones I am getting have a raised reinforce area around holes should I use the speader bars or not?

Thanks again

[screwballl]

on my stock 76 w/ 350 the PCV is on the drivers side to front of carb and still has the factory tube to carb setup on passenger side... am thinking of a standard round baffle for passenger side since the tube isnt connected anymore with my new edelbrock chrome air cleaner.

[76bonanza]

Eddie are you there?

[PHOENIX]

Sorry I have been real busy the last few weeks and havent been on as much as I would like to be.

You can put the pcv or breather on either side it doesnt matter. On the newer trucks the pcv is usually on the drivers side and the breather or tube to the air cleaner is on the passenger side. I would use the non-pcv side for oil input, but it really doesnt matter.

With bafflers like I have you can easily cut off that middle bar and it will make it MUCH easier to add oil. Its easy to cut and doesnt take much time at all. Different types of baffles may require you to drill a hole. What I have done in the past is hold the baffler over a trash can or something and pour a little oil through it to see if it passes right through. These ones and my old ones restricted the oil flow so I cut these new ones.

I would clean the top of the head flange well and use new gaskets. Tighten the valve cover bolts by hand, dont over tighten them or it could cause the cover to warp and/or gaskets to leak.

You wont need spreader bars on the cast aluminum covers. The cast aluminum covers are more rigid then the stamped steel and take more force to warp them. I would highly recommend running the cast aluminum covers over stamped steel covers any day. Rubber gaskets are nice too because they seal just as good if not better then cork/mixture, the rubber are reusable, and you dont need to scrape anything after removing rubber gaskets. In my opinion the cast aluminum covers and rubber gaskets are worth the extra money if you have it to spare.

Something to keep in mind:
If you are still running the stock exhuast manifolds and you have those sheet metal covers around them you may have an issue with installing cast aluminum covers. The bottom flange of the cast covers are wider then the stamped steel covers. When I installed my cast aluminum covers I had to remove the sheet metal cover (on exhuast manifold) on the passenger side to get the valve cover on. The sheet metal covers are spot/pinch welded on, from the top and bottom. They can be a PITA to remove. I used a flat head screw driver and placed it in between the two pieces of sheet metal and turned it, most of the welds popped right open. A couple on the bottom side had to be cut off. You could also remove the exhuast manifold and get them off much easier but I didnt want to go that route.

[76bonanza]

Thanks for the indepth answer it will make my install much easier. I am running headers so that wont be an issue.

On the rubber gaskets any brand? I see some for like 10.00 bucks are they junk?

Thanks for your reply I will up some pics after I install them.

[76bonanza]

A few people have told me to glue the gasket to the valve covers I dont really like that Idea. Is that needed?

[SanitysBane]

that what i did, it helps alot when putting the valve cover on the head if you don't have studs.

[76bonanza]

I do have studs is that the only reason to do it?

[SanitysBane]

the only reason i would do it personally.