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10-10-2004, 12:25 AM | #1 |
Blue 67
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Western WA
Posts: 1,179
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Broken bolt in the head!
Well I bought this chrome vavle cover bolt package from a store close to my house. I was happy that everything was going well with my weekend project. So far I have changed the intake, cleaned all over the engine and ready to put valve covers. I got everything ready but I had a little problem with lining the cover holes with the head holes. Finally everthing lined up and I started inserting the bolts. They were not half way in that they stopped, all of them!. Since I was sure that I cleaned (tapped) all the hole before, I guess I pushe a little hard and them bang! one the bolt broken in the head. After that whenn I compair the new bolts with the original one, I noticed they are a lot longer! almost twice. I don't know what the hell is my problem with differnt legth bolt on this project!. Anyways,I tried to drille out and tap it again which tap broke in it!. Now what? Please give me some clues since I am very scared! Thanks
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10-10-2004, 12:47 AM | #2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Newton, KS, U.S.A.
Posts: 1,142
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if it's sticking out, try to grind flats on it so you can use a wrench.
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10-10-2004, 01:08 AM | #3 |
Blue 67
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Western WA
Posts: 1,179
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No it is not. It is broken below the head surface.
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10-10-2004, 06:34 AM | #4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: WHITEVILLE N.C.
Posts: 494
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That sucks! But is can be remove with a tap extractor. Be real carefull and use a lot tread taping fluid. Good luck.
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10-10-2004, 06:37 AM | #5 |
Active Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: L.A. Lower Alabama
Posts: 453
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Try a left hand drill bit. I bought this set about a year ago on sale and it has more than paid for itself. Only had to us an extractor once ususally the bolt came out with just the drill bit. It's kinda pricey but they have individual sets also. You need a bit that is harder than the tap.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...PMPXNO=5832147
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10-10-2004, 08:01 AM | #6 |
Watch out for your cornhole !
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Azle, Texas
Posts: 14,162
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I've never seen a drill bit that would even dimple a tap.
Get a tiny punch and a pick and try to tap it counterclockwise. The good thing about it being a tap is that the flutes will allow you to get a bite with a punch or pick than an ease out would.
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10-10-2004, 09:34 AM | #7 |
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Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: BRADENTON FLA
Posts: 3,269
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On small bolts like valve cover bolts we have had pretty good luck heating the head with a propane torch a little and using tweezers ground to a point at the end to go between the flutes on the tap, we have also used snap ring pliers in the same manner. GOOD LUCK!
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10-10-2004, 09:50 AM | #8 |
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Washington State
Posts: 8,831
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There is a welding rod that we use to use for just that issue.
You simply put a nut at the surface and weld from the broken stud out to the top of the nut. The flux from the weld rod protects the threads.
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10-10-2004, 11:55 AM | #9 |
Blue 67
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Western WA
Posts: 1,179
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Thanks for all the tips. I'll try use them one by one. I''let you know what will be the end!. Meanwhile let me know if you come cross any other tricks.
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10-10-2004, 05:35 PM | #10 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Newton, KS, U.S.A.
Posts: 1,142
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I suggest trying a tap extractor first. It has little legs that go into the flutes of the tap and allow you to turn it back out. I've never damaged threads using one.
Then go to the center punch method suggested by TX. This usually works, but I've messed up a few threads at times. See if you can borrow a spring loaded center punch instead of using a solid one and hammer. Either way, patience is key. If all else fails try to get a diamond point drill bit (left handed is better). If you're lazy, find a machine shop that has an electrode burner and have them burn it out for you. This will cost some bucks though. Upside is they shouldn't harm the threads. |
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