LOTS of Bag related questions - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

BK · 11-05-2004, 02:57 AM

well, ive got a list, so ill kinda make them numbered so its easy, and thanks in advance. background, ive got a 65 chevy panel, and ive got slam specialties bags, 3/8 valves, 1/2 lines, 2 viair 450 compressors, 12 gallon air tank, 175psi switch.

1. Im running stock alternator on my 327, and it doesnt seem to do the job. Even tonight, i was driving around with the compressors going, and the voltage went down to like 9 volts, so i shut them off, and they really bog after a short while. I have another battery that i could put in, along with the relay setup to have the compressors run of it and charge when its running. I was wondering what suggestions you guys had for alternators to run or what your running. my battery is toast i think, so thought i may as well upgrade the whole charging system at once.

2. I picked up a 73-87 chevy frame, ill be swapping the front suspension over, and the rear axle. 2 q's on this one. one, will the front crossmember bolt up to my frame? Also, if it will, i will just notch it while its out. number 2, what has everyone done when using a leaf sprung axle on a trailing arm, cut the perches off and weld them to the other axle? What do you think about rewelding them to compensate for the added pinion angle, anyone know how much to change it when its on the ground, as low as it can go?

3. the frame if got also has an automatic tranny x-member(which i need, running a 700r4) and i was wondering if it will work, and if i need to shim it up to not drag.

4. Anyone do an lt1 swap into a 60-87 chevy truck. I swapped an lt1 into a v6 camaro today and yesterday, and it was quite easy, and there were only like 3 connections going into the cab, one for ignition, one for guages i believe, and one for somethign else. computer seemed stand alone, so i think i wanna do that swap, just wondering if anyone has done it.

5. im gonna be low, on the ground, and would like to know what any of you 60-66 owners are doing bout that heavy ass hood while having no inner fenders.

well, i think thats all for tonight, let me know, and any other suggestions on bagging a 65 panel to lay frame front to rear let me know.

fastbagged68 · 11-05-2004, 04:01 AM

Thats alot of questions!
1st- you probably should not be running a 175 psi switch with Viair 450's. You should buy a engine driven compressor. Your battery needs to be at full charge then see if it still pulls it down to 9 volts. If you have been playing with your air system the compressors have probably drained your batterys.
2nd- the crossmember should bolt right up. Only do a 1.25" crossmember drop. I highly recomend doing lower control arms that mount in your crossmember like Bill turners- Look at the crossmember drop post and look at how mine and phatom dually arms mount up. I am laying frame on 20's with no crossmember drop on my 71 shop truck. I will post pixs when it finish.
On the rear end you can buy new perches and weld them on. You will need to set up your pinion angle for your new low ride height.
3rd- Make your own tranny mount. The stock one are crap on air ride laying frame. You are probably going to need to cut some of your floor for driveline to come through.
4th- the engine swp never done- but seems easy- look up tps or sport salvage. They both deal with the fuel injection from the Lt1.
Last but not least- the hood hinges. Well I still got my stock ones and they almost work. with a 245-40-20 poking through my fender. I kept my inner wheel wells in and am going to keep them in. I am making a well tub to make it look good. I recomemnd trying to use your stock hinges and modifing them to work. So your hood will line up. i have not seen a low suburban yet with a functioning hood! I hope i am the first! Any other questions shoot away.

Bryce M · 11-05-2004, 06:05 PM

Instead of getting rid of your pumps and getting an expensive engine driven pump I would get a high output alt like 200 amps then you will be able to power a system and whatever else you have or you could run 2 or three stock alts or 2 110 amp alts there are a million ways you can do it all of them will work. the old style SBC alts are like 55 amps and that isnt much a 110 amp alt may do you But it will be hard on it and if you add even more load....
do you have any idea how many watts each pump uses if so i can figure out exactly how many amps you need

Shev · 11-05-2004, 10:12 PM

Hey fastbagged...is this low enough on 20's & 22's with a functioning hoods for ya? It's hard to be original these days...if you can think of it, it's prolly been done or in the process of being done...

I'll try to dig up the hood hinge secret for ya...there is an "easy fix", I just gotta find the post that describes it...

fastbagged68 · 11-06-2004, 05:19 AM

Your burban is low but could always go lower. I meant I have never seen a 60-66 with functioning hood hignes that was layed out. 67-72 you can get to lay body with the stock hinges with the right offset wheel as long as you use a small 20. Also you can move the crossmember up a little bit too to clear it.

PJ_STYLES · 11-06-2004, 12:45 PM

I would also like to know what 60-66 people with layed out trucks are using for hood hinges/hood springs without having to use the "broomstick handle to hold the hood up" method.

Shev · 11-06-2004, 01:49 PM

Ever thought of doing a front flip hood?

11-05-2004, 02:57 AM	#1
BK BK Built Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Oroville, WA Posts: 478	LOTS of Bag related questions well, ive got a list, so ill kinda make them numbered so its easy, and thanks in advance. background, ive got a 65 chevy panel, and ive got slam specialties bags, 3/8 valves, 1/2 lines, 2 viair 450 compressors, 12 gallon air tank, 175psi switch. 1. Im running stock alternator on my 327, and it doesnt seem to do the job. Even tonight, i was driving around with the compressors going, and the voltage went down to like 9 volts, so i shut them off, and they really bog after a short while. I have another battery that i could put in, along with the relay setup to have the compressors run of it and charge when its running. I was wondering what suggestions you guys had for alternators to run or what your running. my battery is toast i think, so thought i may as well upgrade the whole charging system at once. 2. I picked up a 73-87 chevy frame, ill be swapping the front suspension over, and the rear axle. 2 q's on this one. one, will the front crossmember bolt up to my frame? Also, if it will, i will just notch it while its out. number 2, what has everyone done when using a leaf sprung axle on a trailing arm, cut the perches off and weld them to the other axle? What do you think about rewelding them to compensate for the added pinion angle, anyone know how much to change it when its on the ground, as low as it can go? 3. the frame if got also has an automatic tranny x-member(which i need, running a 700r4) and i was wondering if it will work, and if i need to shim it up to not drag. 4. Anyone do an lt1 swap into a 60-87 chevy truck. I swapped an lt1 into a v6 camaro today and yesterday, and it was quite easy, and there were only like 3 connections going into the cab, one for ignition, one for guages i believe, and one for somethign else. computer seemed stand alone, so i think i wanna do that swap, just wondering if anyone has done it. 5. im gonna be low, on the ground, and would like to know what any of you 60-66 owners are doing bout that heavy ass hood while having no inner fenders. well, i think thats all for tonight, let me know, and any other suggestions on bagging a 65 panel to lay frame front to rear let me know.

11-05-2004, 10:12 PM	#4
Shev Head Peon Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Imlay City MI Posts: 295	Hey fastbagged...is this low enough on 20's & 22's with a functioning hoods for ya? It's hard to be original these days...if you can think of it, it's prolly been done or in the process of being done... I'll try to dig up the hood hinge secret for ya...there is an "easy fix", I just gotta find the post that describes it... __________________ '72 Suburban, factory tilt, tach, front & rear AC, front & rear disc brakes, 383/700-R4 Last edited by Shev; 11-06-2004 at 02:03 AM.

11-06-2004, 12:45 PM	#6
PJ_STYLES Rockers1/2"off the ground Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Ontario, Canada Posts: 205	I would also like to know what 60-66 people with layed out trucks are using for hood hinges/hood springs without having to use the "broomstick handle to hold the hood up" method. __________________ 1962 fleetside: bodydropped,shaved,bagged,custom 64 suspension,clear taillights,custom aluminum parts,rollin on 100 spoke player wire wheels. http://www.finelinedesignz.ca

11-06-2004, 01:49 PM	#7
Shev Head Peon Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Imlay City MI Posts: 295	Ever thought of doing a front flip hood? __________________ '72 Suburban, factory tilt, tach, front & rear AC, front & rear disc brakes, 383/700-R4

11-05-2004, 04:01 AM	#2
fastbagged68 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Tri Valley California Posts: 792	Thats alot of questions! 1st- you probably should not be running a 175 psi switch with Viair 450's. You should buy a engine driven compressor. Your battery needs to be at full charge then see if it still pulls it down to 9 volts. If you have been playing with your air system the compressors have probably drained your batterys. 2nd- the crossmember should bolt right up. Only do a 1.25" crossmember drop. I highly recomend doing lower control arms that mount in your crossmember like Bill turners- Look at the crossmember drop post and look at how mine and phatom dually arms mount up. I am laying frame on 20's with no crossmember drop on my 71 shop truck. I will post pixs when it finish. On the rear end you can buy new perches and weld them on. You will need to set up your pinion angle for your new low ride height. 3rd- Make your own tranny mount. The stock one are crap on air ride laying frame. You are probably going to need to cut some of your floor for driveline to come through. 4th- the engine swp never done- but seems easy- look up tps or sport salvage. They both deal with the fuel injection from the Lt1. Last but not least- the hood hinges. Well I still got my stock ones and they almost work. with a 245-40-20 poking through my fender. I kept my inner wheel wells in and am going to keep them in. I am making a well tub to make it look good. I recomemnd trying to use your stock hinges and modifing them to work. So your hood will line up. i have not seen a low suburban yet with a functioning hood! I hope i am the first! Any other questions shoot away.

11-05-2004, 06:05 PM	#3
Bryce M Registered User Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 72	Instead of getting rid of your pumps and getting an expensive engine driven pump I would get a high output alt like 200 amps then you will be able to power a system and whatever else you have or you could run 2 or three stock alts or 2 110 amp alts there are a million ways you can do it all of them will work. the old style SBC alts are like 55 amps and that isnt much a 110 amp alt may do you But it will be hard on it and if you add even more load.... do you have any idea how many watts each pump uses if so i can figure out exactly how many amps you need

11-06-2004, 05:19 AM	#5
fastbagged68 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Tri Valley California Posts: 792	Your burban is low but could always go lower. I meant I have never seen a 60-66 with functioning hood hignes that was layed out. 67-72 you can get to lay body with the stock hinges with the right offset wheel as long as you use a small 20. Also you can move the crossmember up a little bit too to clear it.



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