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Old 11-10-2004, 08:02 PM   #1
frogsmakr
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rear air bags?

I am wanting to bag the back of my '68. What size bags are y'all using? What did ya'll do for brackets? Its already notched and has 6'' ece drop springs
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Old 11-10-2004, 08:32 PM   #2
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Sorry, not trying to hijack your thread but i was wondering the same thing. Will all bags drop the same amount? Also, how much can i drop the rear without having to notch my frame?

Thanks

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Old 11-10-2004, 10:53 PM   #3
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no brackets are needed ... simply drill 3 holes in the frame where the bag bolts and the air line pass thru and bolt the bottom to the trailing arm.

I am using 2400 # bags on the rear.

Hope this helps ya ... the rear is very, very easy to do.
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Old 11-10-2004, 10:56 PM   #4
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2400 lb

it mounts in the stock location
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Old 11-10-2004, 10:59 PM   #5
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AirRide also has a bag (9100) that takes one bolt in the top and one bolt in the bottom and the port is on the side of the top plate...they designed it to be a direct replacement for the coil. It's a 2000 lb. sleeve bag....
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Old 11-10-2004, 11:05 PM   #6
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Quote:
frogsmakr I am wanting to bag the back of my '68. What size bags are y'all using? What did ya'll do for brackets? Its already notched and has 6'' ece drop springs
You can use the Firestone 224C (P/N 6873) bag which is the same bag these trucks utilize up front. It can be swapped directly for your existing coils but will require a bracket to facilitate attatchment to the frame or drilling 3 new holes to attatch them to the frame. Bolting them to the trailing arm is pretty easy & just requires a 3/8" bolt & appropriate washer.

The amount of drop will vary since it is directly affected by how much air psi you like to run. I run mine around town @ 30psi unloaded & the ride is very good. Once I add weight or tow the trailer, I crank the air psi up to level the truck (usually about 60psi) & it rides the same (actually it rides a little better because of the extra weight).

AirRide actually recommends a smaller rear airbag but I wanted to err on the safe side & use the larger bag.

I would estimate my drop to be @ least 7" but I also have 1.5" blocks so actual drop from the bags would realistically be 5-6" w/40psi of air. The top of my rearend actually rides about 1/2" - 3/4" inside my c-section to give you an idea of where it sits @ ride height. But, @ this level of drop, your rear end (@ the pumpkin) will hit the bottom of the bed floor.

Quote:
GreyHoundSteve Sorry, not trying to hijack your thread but i was wondering the same thing. Will all bags drop the same amount? Also, how much can i drop the rear without having to notch my frame?
Anything more than a 5" drop & your going to want a c-section because it will start bottoming out & drive you nutz!
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Last edited by SCOTI; 11-10-2004 at 11:07 PM.
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Old 11-11-2004, 08:48 AM   #7
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Thanks guys......I guess I was overthinking it. 2400# bag, drill some holes.
Gotcha.
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Old 11-11-2004, 10:19 AM   #8
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Thanks Scoti, I gues i should go ahead and put in a c section then since i already have my cab and bed off the frame. Do i need anything besides the bracket and a tool to cut it out? How long would you stimate it takes to cut the section out of the frame? Are their any drawbacks to notching the frame or does it not effect the vehicle in any other way?
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Old 11-11-2004, 12:35 PM   #9
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If the bed is already off the frame..... now's the time to do a c-section. It doesn't take long to actually cut the meatal when using a cut-off wheel or plasma. A sawz-all might take a little longer if the heat from the cut dulls the blade.

TIP: Mark the areas to be cut & drill holes @ every sharp angle. This prevents places for stress cracks to develop later. Center the c-section directly above the axle @ ride height before marking any holes or the section to be cut-out.
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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Old 11-11-2004, 01:16 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCOTI
If the bed is already off the frame..... now's the time to do a c-section. It doesn't take long to actually cut the meatal when using a cut-off wheel or plasma. A sawz-all might take a little longer if the heat from the cut dulls the blade.

TIP: Mark the areas to be cut & drill holes @ every sharp angle. This prevents places for stress cracks to develop later. Center the c-section directly above the axle @ ride height before marking any holes or the section to be cut-out.
What if i dont know what ride height will be yet? I plan to drop the rear ALOT more than it is currently, will this effect the location of the rear axle and where i should put the C-notch? Lastly, who has the best price on c-notch's?
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Old 11-11-2004, 03:45 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreyHoundSteve
What if i dont know what ride height will be yet? I plan to drop the rear ALOT more than it is currently, will this effect the location of the rear axle and where i should put the C-notch? Lastly, who has the best price on c-notch's?
Then do what I did. Yank the rear springs & shocks. Lower the truck until the frame hits the rear end & mark the centerline. Align the centerline of your mark w/the C/L of the top of the c-notch. The instructions that came w/my kit actually directed me to position the c-notch based on factory punched holes in the frame. If I went by their directions, my c-notch would have been 3/4"-1" off center.
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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Old 11-11-2004, 04:15 PM   #12
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Good info here. Thanks! I wonder why their instructions were off???


Quote:
Originally Posted by SCOTI
Then do what I did. Yank the rear springs & shocks. Lower the truck until the frame hits the rear end & mark the centerline. Align the centerline of your mark w/the C/L of the top of the c-notch. The instructions that came w/my kit actually directed me to position the c-notch based on factory punched holes in the frame. If I went by their directions, my c-notch would have been 3/4"-1" off center.
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Old 11-11-2004, 04:46 PM   #13
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Thanks so much for your help scoti. It sounds like waiting until i redo my suspension would be a more appropriate time to notch the frame then. I wish i had the money to do it all right now though.
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Old 11-11-2004, 07:04 PM   #14
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Quote:
GreyHoundSteve Thanks so much for your help scoti. It sounds like waiting until i redo my suspension would be a more appropriate time to notch the frame then. I wish i had the money to do it all right now though.
IMO, if the bed is off . . .... now's the time. Then when you do the other stuff, your ahead of the game (although w/enough help, it easy to get a bed off).
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.

Last edited by SCOTI; 11-11-2004 at 07:07 PM.
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