Airbaggers! Share your Knowledge Please!

[OG lil E]

I've been driving my '79 Chevy around town for the last few weeks and it is great! But, I have come to the conclusion that if I plan on driving it on these terrible Denver streets I'm going to have to install airbags. I had planned to put them in the rear all along, but now I've decided to put them in the front as well. My front A-arms are just a few inches off the ground and I'm hitting on everything! I've had lowered vehicles before, but the truck's suspension really rides low and drags alot, way more than other cars I've had. I've read stories on here in the past about guys destroying A-arms on big bumps and dips, and I think I'm going to get bagged before it happens to me.

I've installed hydraulics before, but I want the ride that airbags give. Also, cleaning up hydraulic leaks gets to be a drag after awhile. I've been reading about installs in magazines, but most of the articles are pretty vague. Does anybody know of any good articles in magazines with install stories with lots of pictures and helpful tips? Also, what do I need to look out for? What problems did you have? Who is the best company to buy from? How many valves do I need for a front and back set up--no side to side? What size airline is the best to run? Sorry about all the questions, but I want to do alot of research and then get the bags installed without alot of re-working and part upgrade purchases. Thanks for any help--I appreciate it! Layta......E

[cochino12]

Hey man I cant help on the bags but I saw you were from Denver and thought I would say hey. Not a lot of denver people here, any pics of your truck?

[BaggedC10]

Originally Posted by OG lil E

Also, what do I need to look out for? What problems did you have? Who is the best company to buy from? How many valves do I need for a front and back set up--no side to side? What size airline is the best to run?

1. Look out for Chassis Tech/AIM Industries products. Never purchase from this company.....!!!

2. I've had zero problems w/ my truck but I have only driven it 200-miles since owning it. Assuming the installation is done right, the suspension should provide many years of trouble-free service. Make sure the air springs don't make contact w/ anything, the air line is not prone to chaifing, and all fittings are secure/taped.

3. www.***************** and www.RideTech.com

3. Technically, you only NEED 4-valves but air transfer from side-to-side will cause the truck to handle poorly. I wouldn't think twice about installing a 4-way setup! The adjustment and handling advantage is worth every penny.

4. Air line and valve size depends on what you desire of your compressor system. Personally, I think anything less than 1/2" is too slow. I don't hit the switches very often or care about speed but I wouldn't want a slower system. My setup is very controllable and user friendly.

Personally, here's what I would do:

Front suspension:

SD.com upper plates.

Firestone 224c or Slam Specialties RS72 air springs.

ART upper and lower tubular control arms.

Belltech or DJM 3" spindles.

If you want to retain the factory control arms, purchase lower cups from SD.com!

Rear Suspension:

ART parallel 4-link w/ F9000's located behind the axle.

SD.com or custom 8" step notch.

Or

KP Components 4-link w/ cantilever attatchment. 100% bolt-on and it includes everything you need, including a frame notch.

Compressor system:

Piece together your own system using two Viar 400 compressors, two 5-gallon air tanks, 8 SMC valves, and DOT approved air line/fittings.

Or you could purchase the ARC4800 BIGRed Max compressor system from ART.

[OG lil E]

Thanks for the info BC10. I already have Bell Tech lowered spindles and Summit lowered springs, so I'm already low. We also sectioned the A-arms so the alignment would be better. The a-arms have been powder coated as well, but I'm sure I'll have to get those re-done after the I weld in the bag brackets. I'm pretty sure that I'll get the air bag brackets and the bridge for the rear from Suicide doors. I've heard nothing but good things about them and their prices are great! I'm mostly concerned about the install and all the weird things that always seem to come up. I hope it goes smoothly.

Cochino12, I do have a few pictures of my truck. It's not much to look at right now, but I'm working on it. I'll try to put them up, but I'm not sure if I can figure out how to post them. Seems like there is never much to do here in Denver, but it's kool to see there is another Mile High trucker here!

[N2TRUX]

Here is a simple bag lay out for you to look at. This is a two way system. On these trucks you really need a four way system to prevent air tranfer from side to side....

[N2TRUX]

You mention welding in your bag plates. The upper plates can't be welded in, because you wouldn't have any way to un-bolt the bags later. The lower cups "do not" weld or even bolt in. They have to float to prevent to bag from over extending....

[N2TRUX]

The biggest cause of failure is line or bag blow-out. Your bags "CAN NOT" touch anything. If they touch, they will wear through. The rear bags must be set where they don't over extend. (see pic).

Your air lines should be routed way away from your exhaust if you use plastic line. It will blow out if it's anywhere near the exhaust.....

[OG lil E]

N2Trux, thanks, this is exactly the kind of information I've been looking for! Could you please explain a "four-way" system?

[N2TRUX]

It uses twice the amount of valves pictured in the diagram above. A 2-way system has 4 valves. The front bags are paired together, and the rear bags are paired together. It has two valves for each "pair" of bags. The problem with this style of stystem is it allows air to transfer between the pairs of bags. On smaller, lighter vehicles it's not a big issue, but on our trucks it makes thew sway, or lean when cornering.

A 4 way system has 8 valves total. It uses two valves to control control each bag seperately. This eliminates air transfer between bags and allows you to adjust each corner by itself.

As far as line/valve size goes, 3/8" will do what you want just fine. A lot of guys are going to 1/2" ( or bigger) but it's not really needed. If you want a system that will clown, then that's a whole different story. If you want one that gets the job done then 3/8" valves and line are plenty fast....

[leastbay]

good thread i didnt realize you could get the front brackets that cheap im gonna do mine one day hopefully

[SanitysBane]

hmmm....tempting, very very tempting...

[BeerMonkeY]

id like to jump in here and throw another questrion in. how bad is it to weld in the lower cups? cause mine are welded in and have been that way for months now. should i cut them out ? i havent had any problems yet but i dont want any either so am i asking for trouble by keeping them welded in?

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by BeerMonkeY

id like to jump in here and throw another questrion in. how bad is it to weld in the lower cups? cause mine are welded in and have been that way for months now....

I don't think it will become an issue unless you try hopping with it. They are supposed to be floating to prevent over extension. Under normal driving I don't think you would ever do that with the fronts because the bump stops and shocks shouldn't let that happen.....

[OG lil E]

I'm still not sure why you would need that many valves. With 8 valves would it be wired with 8 separate switches? Would double outlet bags be necessary? This is still a little vague. It seems like you could get away with 3 valves for the front, and 3 more for the rear. Anybody happen to have a wiring/plumbing diagram for a set up like this? Thanks to everyone who has helped out on this post--and to everyone that will add on as well. E

[N2TRUX]

It's confusing because you of the amount of valves used. You have to have one valve to control air going in the bag(s), and one valve to let air out of the bag(s).

In other words the 2 way system pictured above has one valve to send air from the storage tank to the front bags, and one valve to let it out of the front bags. The same goes for the rear bags for a "total" of 4 valves.

On the 4 way system it uses two valves per each bag. One to let air in from storage and one to let air out of the bag for a "total" of eight valves.

Does that make sense....

[MrShelley]

8 valve plumbing

[bagged81]

Originally Posted by OG lil E

With 8 valves would it be wired with 8 separate switches?

You would have 4 rocker switches, one for each wheel. Each switch has 3 positions, inflate, off, and deflate.

Hang in there, you'll get it.

[67chevemall]

This tread should be a STICKY!
good stuff!
I like the 4 way bags with 4 stems all at the back in or around the gas filer.
I'm broke so I can go down easy, but going up needs the gas station!

[Shev]

Check out www.bagginit.com has good info for a newbie...and to clear up something that BaggedC10 said...if you use the Art arms you should use their upper plates, their arms move the bag around 3/8" forward, so "stock arm" plates either need to be altered or cannot be used...

[BeerMonkeY]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

I don't think it will become an issue unless you try hopping with it. They are supposed to be floating to prevent over extension. Under normal driving I don't think you would ever do that with the fronts because the bump stops and shocks shouldn't let that happen.....

my shocks do act as limiters for lift. but i dont have any bumpstops. and i dont plan on trying to hop it with firestones si when im ready to hop and change bags ill just cut loose the cup. thanks , iwas a little worried id be running into problems

[BaggedC10]

Originally Posted by Shev

Check out www.bagginit.com has good info for a newbie...and to clear up something that BaggedC10 said...if you use the Art arms you should use their upper plates, their arms move the bag around 3/8" forward, so "stock arm" plates either need to be altered or cannot be used...

Yep, I forgot to mention that. For those that are already bagged, ART offers revised "slotted" plates.

[TheFabShop]

You can get away with 4 valves front 2 rear and it will not side to side like if you were running 2 front 2 rear.I have ran setups this way with no problem.I do however suggest 8 valves for simplicity.It does cost a little more but not that much.Compressors depends on what you want out of your system.I prefer a linedrive but that is preference Viair makes good compressors also.I like the 450's since duty cycle is 100% and they are water proof.This depends on also how many tanks you are running or volume of air one 450 per 5 gallons.If you are going to mess with the switches much go with more volume so your compressor doesn't work as hard.You also have system pressure also to help with raising your truck faster I use 175 psi switch on daily drivers no problem.You can make your truck raise faster the closer your valves are to the bag also as larger line helps to.Spindles are always a plus helps laying the truck out plus alignment easier.As for rear setups it depends on what you want 2link with panhard bar,3 link which is a wishbone setup,triangulated 4 link,or parallel 4 link.All have pros and cons depending on the application.Sorry to ramble on and not trying to be a know it all just trying to help out.I know people who have use SD stuff with luck but as far as me I build all my own brackets and cups.All my bracketry is laser cut also.

[OG lil E]

N2Trux, thanks for all your patient explainations--I've learned alot.

Mr. Shelley, like they say, a picture is worth a thousand words, man, that put it all in perspective!

I am planning to run 2 compressors with two air tanks. I was wondering if these compressors pull alot of power. Has anybody ever ran a big alternator and an isolator with a spare battery to run just the air system?

Also, what brand of air valves is everybody running? It seems like this would be very important because they are put to alot of use and are in a harsh environment. Does water get in the air system? This seems like it would mess up valves. They aren't cheap, so let's hear the recommendations....

[TheFabShop]

You can run two 450's one per 3 to 5 gallon tank no problem but run a water trap per tank you will be fine.I run gc's on all the trucks I do with no problems.There are other good valves out there but these are the one's I use.

[BaggedC10]

Personally, I would recommend two Viar 400's over two 450's any day of the week. I don't know of anyone who needs a 100% duty-cycle compressor and the 400 model produces more CFM.

The 400 is rated at 1.34 CFM @ 100psi.

The 450 is rated at 0.94 CFM @ 100psi.

The 400 will also fill a 5-gallon tank 31-seconds quicker.

From what I have read, SMC, Parker, and GC make great valves. I won't install anything but ART BIGRed's though. They are simply awesome.....