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03-20-2002, 11:42 AM
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#1 |
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Not my good side.
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Fairfield, California
Posts: 222
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Brake problem
The front discs on my '72 squeak to the point of embarrassment. A quick check thru the rims revealed there's plenty of pad left, and the rotors look ok. I figured I'd begin with the easy stuff first and bleed the brakes. The forward reservoir in the master cylinder was way low (tracing the line, it leads to the rear brakes... got a leak there somewhere). Reading up on the subject, I learned that the combination valve must be held open during the bleeding process by holding in the metering pin. I'm not sure where this pin is. If it is on the forward end of the combo valve body, mine appears to be stuck in the "in" position. The end of the pin is flush with the boss thru which it protrudes. I'm new to this type of brake system, incorporating a combo valve. What's my next step?
------------------ 72 Chevy K20 LWB, 350/350, lifted, dual shock suspension F&R. AKA The Beast. Daily driver, even though it's a work in progress.
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72 Chevy K20 Custom Camper, 350/350, 4" lift, dual shock suspension front & rear. Daily driver and a work in progress. 00 Suburban LT 90 Camaro RS 79 Yamaha XS1100 Special (Ol' Reliable) |
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03-20-2002, 01:11 PM
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#2 |
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70 Chevy 3/4t
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Kokomo,IN USA
Posts: 1,230
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maybe the front brakes have gotten hot due to them being your stopping power. The pads themselves may be glazed. I would suggest fixing the rear leak and then replacing the front pads.
I am no pro, just my opinion. ------------------ 1971 Chevy 1/2t, 350 1998 Yamaha V-Star 650 1970 Chevy 3/4t, I6(freshly rebuilt), 4 speed Keokuk,IA http://communities.msn.com/SchweringFamily/shoebox.msnw MSN Messenger = boilrman Find a job you love and you'll never have to work a day in your life. [This message has been edited by boilrman (edited March 20, 2002).]
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Find a job you love and you'll never have to work a day in your life. 1998 Yamaha V-Star 650 1970 Chevy 3/4t, I6 (rebuilt), 4 speed Kokomo,IN |
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03-21-2002, 11:39 AM
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#3 |
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Not my good side.
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Fairfield, California
Posts: 222
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Right you are. Both rear wheel cylinders are leaking. And I've got come rust contamination in the system. Got a big job ahead of me.
Can you address the combo valve issue? ------------------ 72 Chevy K20 LWB, 350/350, lifted, dual shock suspension F&R. AKA The Beast. Daily driver, even though it's a work in progress.
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72 Chevy K20 Custom Camper, 350/350, 4" lift, dual shock suspension front & rear. Daily driver and a work in progress. 00 Suburban LT 90 Camaro RS 79 Yamaha XS1100 Special (Ol' Reliable) |
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03-21-2002, 12:20 PM
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#4 |
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70 Chevy 3/4t
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Kokomo,IN USA
Posts: 1,230
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think i remember seeing in another post about the valve issue. He was unable to bleed the rear brakes until he bled the front and then the valve you are talking about moved and he was able to bleed the rear.
If your rear pads are soaked with brake fluid, I am sure they are if the wheel cylinders have been leaking for a while, replace them. They can get sticky. Good Luck. ------------------ 1971 Chevy 1/2t, 350 1998 Yamaha V-Star 650 1970 Chevy 3/4t, I6(freshly rebuilt), 4 speed Keokuk,IA http://communities.msn.com/SchweringFamily/shoebox.msnw MSN Messenger = boilrman Find a job you love and you'll never have to work a day in your life.
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Find a job you love and you'll never have to work a day in your life. 1998 Yamaha V-Star 650 1970 Chevy 3/4t, I6 (rebuilt), 4 speed Kokomo,IN |
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03-21-2002, 12:30 PM
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#5 |
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Account Suspended
Join Date: May 2000
Location: IL
Posts: 0
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it could actually be the axleshaft seals leaking, greas eon shoes wil make linings grab the drums and lock em up when truck is unloaded, leaking seals is very common problem on the eaton 3/4 and 1 ton axles in 67-72
sqealing pads is caused by two things, either the pads are metallica composition and youl have to live with it unless you replace them, or they pads are loose in the calipers and need anti sqeal applied to the backsides of them, you can get the stuff at auto parts store good luck |
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03-21-2002, 12:49 PM
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#6 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Blaine, MN
Posts: 798
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The pin on the combination valve sit flush with the boss when brakes are not applied. Have someone press the brakes and you should see it stick out. That's when you want to push it back in and hold it there while bleeding the rear brakes. That's when 2 assistants are useful unless you have a special tool to hold it in. You don't need to do anything with it during front brake bleeding process.
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'72 C/10 LWB 402/400 Blaine, MN |
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03-21-2002, 02:53 PM
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#7 |
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Not my good side.
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Fairfield, California
Posts: 222
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Ok, now it makes sense. I was fooling with this solo, and since my only other Chevy was a '65 El Camino, I'd never taken notice of a combo valve before... so I didn't know what to look for. Thanks Alex.
Fast68Chevy, I'm sure it's the rear wheel cylinders. While I was fooling with it yesterday, I pumped the brakes a bunch and was rewarded with 2 puddles of brake fluid on the street. That, in addition to the problem with the calipers up front and system contamination, the Beast is on the bench until I can rip into it. boilrman, I'll look for that other post. Thanks to you all for your advise. Glad I discovered this BBS. There's a wealth of good info here. ------------------ 72 Chevy K20 LWB, 350/350, lifted, dual shock suspension F&R. AKA The Beast. Daily driver, even though it's a work in progress.
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72 Chevy K20 Custom Camper, 350/350, 4" lift, dual shock suspension front & rear. Daily driver and a work in progress. 00 Suburban LT 90 Camaro RS 79 Yamaha XS1100 Special (Ol' Reliable) |
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