turn signal switch questions - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

sub4rvr · 01-29-2005, 08:50 PM

First off, this is not the original column. The old hazard switch is red, and looks like one piece. The new switch looks like it has a knob that would screw into it.
How do you get the old switch out? I got it all loosed up, then what. Do I have to pull out the pin holding in the turn signal switch? I tried it once, but didn't want to break anything.
Thanks, Dave.

sub4rvr · 02-03-2005, 12:23 AM

Anyone ??? TTT

JimKshortstep4x4 · 02-03-2005, 07:42 AM

Can you let us know a little more about the column? Is is a tilt?, GM?, about what year it is?

Jim

sub4rvr · 02-04-2005, 01:06 AM

Sorry about that.
It's in my '72 Sub. Non tilt. truck was a 4 speed, but a PO changed it to an auto.
The turn signal switch in the column has a red hazard switch which looks to be one piece.
The new switch looks like a hazard knob is suppose to screw into it. The lights look like they maybe different too.
I got the switch and 'cup?' loose from the column, but couldn't get the switch out of the cup.

**'68OrangeSunshine** · 02-05-2005, 04:46 AM

It's all part of the turn signal switch assembly. You have to pull the wheel then, the switch assy to get at the hazard button. They don't make the red button anymore. The replacement is a 2-piece unit that screws into the turn signal switch instead of the one-piece red button that snapped in. Used to be included with the turn signal switch package, but I see LMC lists them seperately now. Go figure?
To access the turn signal switch you have to Pull the wheel, then the cancelling cam, unscrew the turn signal lever, loosen a tin plate under the column to get to the rainbow wiring pigtail. Feed some slack up thru the lever housing hub and turn signal housing -- about 3 or 4" so you can work on it and ease out the signal switch after unscrewing it from its potmetal support unit.
If the red button isn't broken, you have to angle the switch unit --left-side first-- to get the red button out of the hole. Putting the black button back on is done after the (new)switch unit is all put back in.
I think the red button was stock on '67 + '68s, the black 2-piece button is probably '69 and later.
It's been a while since I R&R'd my turn signal switch and for some reason the illustration in the LMC catalog is inaccurate. Good luck and hope I haven't just confused you.

Longhorn Man · 02-05-2005, 08:04 AM

sunshine has the right idea there.
THe red button was stockn in all of these trucks..they didn't go to the black one (due to federal safety regs) untill 75 or so IIRC.
Another thing, since you are removing a broken unit, you can just break the red button off. it'll make things a whole lot easier.

JimKshortstep4x4 · 02-05-2005, 08:42 AM

68OrangeSunshine,

I think your responce is a candidate for the FAQ section as this question comes up from time to time. Good job!

Jim

70c10 · 02-05-2005, 10:07 AM

It's also a good idea to disconnect the battery first because you have to activate the hazards to gain clearance to tilt it up and out and it's a good time to replace the cancel cam if it's broken.

sub4rvr · 02-05-2005, 04:36 PM

Thanks for the replies.
Looks like I need to order a couple more parts.

**'68OrangeSunshine** · 02-06-2005, 03:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimKshortstep4x4

68OrangeSunshine,

I think your responce is a candidate for the FAQ section as this question comes up from time to time. Good job!

Jim

Thanks, but I thought it was a bit garbled. [It was late and I was past my 3rd beer

] In fact, I forgot to tell him to rotate the cancelling cam up one to Right turn to get out one screw then down one to Left turn to get the other. Also I checked it out in Checker Auto today and they still carry the 5-sided turn signal cam in the "Help" section, p/n 49303. The bad news is it's now $11 bucks. But that's still cheaper than the whole TS Switch Assy at $29 bucks.
Hope this helps.

JimKshortstep4x4 · 02-06-2005, 07:15 AM

68OrangeSunshine,

The essentials are in your description. I just think that information like this needs to be in the FAQ's. (To smooth out the "garble" as you put it, can take a lot of time).

Jim

Martin64 · 02-06-2005, 08:29 AM

"since you are removing a broken unit, you can just break the red button off."

Or in the case of my truck, I turned the hazards on (for an accident on the freeway on my way to work last winter) and when I went to turn them off the button just disintegrated. I had to unplug the flasher unit I could get home to fix it

Longhorn Man · 02-06-2005, 10:49 AM

Matin...I've been there. ANd when I reached in whith needle nose pliers...I bumped something and sparks went flying and I jumped, fell off the seat and bashed my head on the A/C controlls. (not receced like the non A/C trucks)
My buddy was about to p!ss himself he was laughing so hard.

Robert1970C20rstbukt · 02-06-2005, 03:43 PM

I broke the red hazard knob on my truck trying to remove the pin that holds the shifter to the column. I had a punch on the bottom of the pin and was using too big of a hammer and missed the punch and hit the knob and it snapped in half. The thing that sucked was that it wasn't even cracked or faded, it even had the white paint on the letters that said FLASHER. Being the redneck I am, I superglued it back on and it hadn't come off in 2 months.

01-29-2005, 08:50 PM	#1
sub4rvr Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Palm Springs, Ca. Posts: 574	turn signal switch questions First off, this is not the original column. The old hazard switch is red, and looks like one piece. The new switch looks like it has a knob that would screw into it. How do you get the old switch out? I got it all loosed up, then what. Do I have to pull out the pin holding in the turn signal switch? I tried it once, but didn't want to break anything. Thanks, Dave. __________________ 72 C10 Suburban 90 S10 57 F100 (2) 67 Mustang (2) 69 Torino GT 00 Mustang GT Conv.

02-03-2005, 12:23 AM	#2
sub4rvr Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Palm Springs, Ca. Posts: 574	Anyone ??? TTT __________________ 72 C10 Suburban 90 S10 57 F100 (2) 67 Mustang (2) 69 Torino GT 00 Mustang GT Conv.

02-04-2005, 01:06 AM	#4
sub4rvr Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Palm Springs, Ca. Posts: 574	Sorry about that. It's in my '72 Sub. Non tilt. truck was a 4 speed, but a PO changed it to an auto. The turn signal switch in the column has a red hazard switch which looks to be one piece. The new switch looks like a hazard knob is suppose to screw into it. The lights look like they maybe different too. I got the switch and 'cup?' loose from the column, but couldn't get the switch out of the cup. __________________ 72 C10 Suburban 90 S10 57 F100 (2) 67 Mustang (2) 69 Torino GT 00 Mustang GT Conv.

02-05-2005, 04:46 AM	#5
'68OrangeSunshine Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Tucson, AZ USA Posts: 7,536	It's all part of the turn signal switch assembly. You have to pull the wheel then, the switch assy to get at the hazard button. They don't make the red button anymore. The replacement is a 2-piece unit that screws into the turn signal switch instead of the one-piece red button that snapped in. Used to be included with the turn signal switch package, but I see LMC lists them seperately now. Go figure? To access the turn signal switch you have to Pull the wheel, then the cancelling cam, unscrew the turn signal lever, loosen a tin plate under the column to get to the rainbow wiring pigtail. Feed some slack up thru the lever housing hub and turn signal housing -- about 3 or 4" so you can work on it and ease out the signal switch after unscrewing it from its potmetal support unit. If the red button isn't broken, you have to angle the switch unit --left-side first-- to get the red button out of the hole. Putting the black button back on is done after the (new)switch unit is all put back in. I think the red button was stock on '67 + '68s, the black 2-piece button is probably '69 and later. It's been a while since I R&R'd my turn signal switch and for some reason the illustration in the LMC catalog is inaccurate. Good luck and hope I haven't just confused you. __________________ Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. Last edited by '68OrangeSunshine; 02-05-2005 at 05:17 AM.

02-05-2005, 10:07 AM	#8
70c10 67-72 Addict! Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: The TAX State! Posts: 7,856	It's also a good idea to disconnect the battery first because you have to activate the hazards to gain clearance to tilt it up and out and it's a good time to replace the cancel cam if it's broken. __________________ Jim 1970 C/10 Fleetside w/Ghost Flames Lowered 4.5" front and 4" rear (Raked) 355/350 Turbo w/shift kit 10" Redneck Performance Verter w/2500 stall Hooker Super Comps part#2808-1 Performer RPM Air-Gap 12 Bolt w/3:73 gears- Eaton Posi Comp Cams XE262 with 1.6 Crane Energizers, Road Demon 625 and Brodix IK 180 heads

02-03-2005, 07:42 AM	#3
JimKshortstep4x4 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Muskegon,MI,USA Posts: 6,026	Can you let us know a little more about the column? Is is a tilt?, GM?, about what year it is? Jim

02-05-2005, 08:04 AM	#6
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,690	sunshine has the right idea there. THe red button was stockn in all of these trucks..they didn't go to the black one (due to federal safety regs) untill 75 or so IIRC. Another thing, since you are removing a broken unit, you can just break the red button off. it'll make things a whole lot easier.

02-05-2005, 08:42 AM	#7
JimKshortstep4x4 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Muskegon,MI,USA Posts: 6,026	68OrangeSunshine, I think your responce is a candidate for the FAQ section as this question comes up from time to time. Good job! Jim

02-05-2005, 04:36 PM	#9
sub4rvr Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Palm Springs, Ca. Posts: 574	Thanks for the replies. Looks like I need to order a couple more parts. __________________ 72 C10 Suburban 90 S10 57 F100 (2) 67 Mustang (2) 69 Torino GT 00 Mustang GT Conv.

02-06-2005, 07:15 AM	#11
JimKshortstep4x4 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Muskegon,MI,USA Posts: 6,026	68OrangeSunshine, The essentials are in your description. I just think that information like this needs to be in the FAQ's. (To smooth out the "garble" as you put it, can take a lot of time). Jim

02-06-2005, 08:29 AM	#12
Martin64 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Yuma, Az Posts: 477	"since you are removing a broken unit, you can just break the red button off." Or in the case of my truck, I turned the hazards on (for an accident on the freeway on my way to work last winter) and when I went to turn them off the button just disintegrated. I had to unplug the flasher unit I could get home to fix it __________________ Martin Gibson USAF Retired 1964(-ish) C10

02-06-2005, 10:49 AM	#13
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,690	Matin...I've been there. ANd when I reached in whith needle nose pliers...I bumped something and sparks went flying and I jumped, fell off the seat and bashed my head on the A/C controlls. (not receced like the non A/C trucks) My buddy was about to p!ss himself he was laughing so hard.

02-06-2005, 03:43 PM	#14
Robert1970C20rstbukt Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Beeville, Texas Posts: 1,943	I broke the red hazard knob on my truck trying to remove the pin that holds the shifter to the column. I had a punch on the bottom of the pin and was using too big of a hammer and missed the punch and hit the knob and it snapped in half. The thing that sucked was that it wasn't even cracked or faded, it even had the white paint on the letters that said FLASHER. Being the redneck I am, I superglued it back on and it hadn't come off in 2 months. __________________ RJD 1984 Chevrolet C30 welding truck 454/SM465 1977 GMC C15 pickup 350/TH350 1970 Chevrolet C20 pickup 350/TH400 1970 Chevrolet K20 Suburban 454/TH350 1969 GMC 8500 478M V6/5 spd winch truck



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