Early Classic panhard bar bracket hits frame when slammed ?????? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

REPO1 · 03-13-2005, 01:11 AM

I was just bolting my frame together today, and I noticed that the new adjustable panhard rod setup is already giving me problems. If I let the suspension right down, (no air in bags) the differential won't even get close to going right up into the C-notch. The bracket that is sandwiched between the trailing arm and the diff hits the frame first.

Now I know some of you must have ran into this already. What have you done to fix this? I am assuming that I will need to make a new bracket of some sort.

Do you guys have any pics or ideas I could try?

Thanks!

lost wages · 03-13-2005, 04:36 AM

get a set of lowering b;pcks for the rear, it will not only lower it more but it will act as a spacer between the rear axle and panhard bar bracket. There was a couple of other things guys have done but search is not working now so im sure they will chime in soon.

see ten · 03-13-2005, 08:09 AM

I have seen pics of this before and I have seen it fixed a couple of different ways. I have seen blocks used with a bracket added to the inside of the passenger side for the arm. This moves your bar from behind the arm where it hits your frame, to next to it so the axle moves on into your notch. I have also seen pics of where people have made their notch bigger to clear the track bar. I'm sure someone will post some pics of both of these mods. TTT for you.

72MARIO · 03-13-2005, 09:31 AM

Slammed67 is the guy you need to talk to.

REPO1 · 03-13-2005, 10:39 AM

I really don't want to weld a bracket on the inside of the trailing arm, as I am not sure if this woiuld pass a DOT inspection. I was thinking of making some sort of bracket, similar to the Early Classic one, but opposite so the instead of going up towards the frame, it would drop down beside the trailing arm. Not sure how to reinforce it yet though.

SCOTI · 03-13-2005, 12:48 PM

To fix the problem, they either stretch the length of the 'notch' so that it clears the 'offending' bracket, or re-locate the bracket.

If you don't want to weld a bracket to your trailing arm, you could bend some .1875 or .250" steel to wrap around the top & bottom of the trailing arm. Drill holes the same spacing as the u-bolts & mount the steel (bracket) under the rear (sandwiching the trailing arm), put the u-bolt back in & your bracket is captured on both the top & bottom. Weld the tabs needed for the panhard bar end to this new piece of steel. You'll need to add an equivalent sized spacer to the drivers side to keep things level.

A board member hinted about possibly producing some 'c-notches' that would eliminate this issue but I'm not sure how serious he was.

slogo · 03-13-2005, 09:59 PM

Classic Performace products has a 2'' block that will take care of your problem, no welding. that's what i have on mine i think the 1.5'' would work also.
Here's a pic from there website

Slammed66 · 03-14-2005, 11:10 PM

sorry about the worng side but I have the early classiscs super track bar on in this pic it clears just fine that sa little less than 2 inches, just an old adujustable djm block kit scott had kickin around.

ricecop425 · 03-15-2005, 01:02 AM

slammed 66 how much total drop are you getting out of that setup

smokekiki · 03-15-2005, 09:36 AM

The only problem I have with using a block over lengthening the c-notch is depending what wheel-tire combo You have,with a flat the u-bolt and trailing arm will dig into the road instead of running on the tire.http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...id=68427&stc=1

jamis · 03-15-2005, 12:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smokekiki

The only problem I have with using a block over lengthening the c-notch is depending what wheel-tire combo You have,with a flat the u-bolt and trailing arm will dig into the road instead of running on the tire.http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...id=68427&stc=1

LOL thats my truck.....that was a mock up before I added the wedge, you have to cut off the extra length of u-bolt when your done. Slammed67 welded the brackets to the trailering arms and It work out great(thats were I learned to correct the problem). If you dont want to weld to the trailering arms or use a block like me, then make it from a peice of angle bar and slide it between the trailering arm and the perch. Just like the ECE only reversed, so the brackets layover and parallel with the trailering arm instead of above the arm

Slammed67 · 03-15-2005, 12:34 PM

Here is the problem....

Here is my solution....

I'd recommend making a longer bracket because on mine the track bar end is adjusted out almost all the way.

jamis · 03-15-2005, 01:13 PM

Nortwest auto fab makes this nice on that looks like it will work. I just ordered some pullies and an alt bracket from them.....they make some neet stuff...http://www.nwautofab.com/store/custo...5&cat=4&page=1

Bagd72Chevy · 03-15-2005, 02:21 PM

I just stretched my notch a little when I ran into this problem. And I am using CPP's 2 inch blocks too.

03-13-2005, 01:11 AM	#1
REPO1 Shortbox wanna-be. Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Fort St.John, British Columbia, Canada Posts: 773	Early Classic panhard bar bracket hits frame when slammed ?????? I was just bolting my frame together today, and I noticed that the new adjustable panhard rod setup is already giving me problems. If I let the suspension right down, (no air in bags) the differential won't even get close to going right up into the C-notch. The bracket that is sandwiched between the trailing arm and the diff hits the frame first. Now I know some of you must have ran into this already. What have you done to fix this? I am assuming that I will need to make a new bracket of some sort. Do you guys have any pics or ideas I could try? Thanks! __________________ 1970 Chevy C20 Custom Camper 402BB Turbo 400 trans. (Slowly becoming a '70 shortbox 1/2 ton) '71 Camaro SS 402/T400 resto '97 Z28 (11.41@127MPH)

03-13-2005, 09:31 AM	#4
72MARIO Registered User Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Huntsville Ontario Canada Posts: 4,051	Slammed67 is the guy you need to talk to. __________________ 1968 Suburban numbers matching all original truck now equipped with 6.0/4L80 on Accuair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=625017 1967 C/20 6.0/4L80 Roofing Truck 1990 V2500 Suburban "Plow Truck" 2005 TAHOE DD

03-13-2005, 12:48 PM	#6
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 22,066	To fix the problem, they either stretch the length of the 'notch' so that it clears the 'offending' bracket, or re-locate the bracket. If you don't want to weld a bracket to your trailing arm, you could bend some .1875 or .250" steel to wrap around the top & bottom of the trailing arm. Drill holes the same spacing as the u-bolts & mount the steel (bracket) under the rear (sandwiching the trailing arm), put the u-bolt back in & your bracket is captured on both the top & bottom. Weld the tabs needed for the panhard bar end to this new piece of steel. You'll need to add an equivalent sized spacer to the drivers side to keep things level. A board member hinted about possibly producing some 'c-notches' that would eliminate this issue but I'm not sure how serious he was. __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.* Last edited by SCOTI; 03-13-2005 at 12:50 PM.

03-13-2005, 09:59 PM	#7
slogo Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Morristown,TN Posts: 481	Classic Performace products has a 2'' block that will take care of your problem, no welding. that's what i have on mine i think the 1.5'' would work also. Here's a pic from there website Attached Images Last edited by slogo; 03-13-2005 at 10:04 PM.

03-14-2005, 11:10 PM	#8
Slammed66 Needs a Big Block Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Red Deer , Alberta Posts: 1,198	sorry about the worng side but I have the early classiscs super track bar on in this pic it clears just fine that sa little less than 2 inches, just an old adujustable djm block kit scott had kickin around. __________________ 1964 Short box On dropmembers and billets 1962 Suburban family cruiser 1972 K10

03-13-2005, 04:36 AM	#2
lost wages Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: jefferson city, mo Posts: 1,364	get a set of lowering b;pcks for the rear, it will not only lower it more but it will act as a spacer between the rear axle and panhard bar bracket. There was a couple of other things guys have done but search is not working now so im sure they will chime in soon.

03-13-2005, 08:09 AM	#3
see ten WTB this ad Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Lafayette Georgia Posts: 5,074	I have seen pics of this before and I have seen it fixed a couple of different ways. I have seen blocks used with a bracket added to the inside of the passenger side for the arm. This moves your bar from behind the arm where it hits your frame, to next to it so the axle moves on into your notch. I have also seen pics of where people have made their notch bigger to clear the track bar. I'm sure someone will post some pics of both of these mods. TTT for you.

03-13-2005, 10:39 AM	#5
REPO1 Shortbox wanna-be. Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Fort St.John, British Columbia, Canada Posts: 773	I really don't want to weld a bracket on the inside of the trailing arm, as I am not sure if this woiuld pass a DOT inspection. I was thinking of making some sort of bracket, similar to the Early Classic one, but opposite so the instead of going up towards the frame, it would drop down beside the trailing arm. Not sure how to reinforce it yet though.

03-15-2005, 01:02 AM	#9
ricecop425 carl Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: seattle Posts: 190	slammed 66 how much total drop are you getting out of that setup __________________ a man and his truck, such a beautiful thing

03-15-2005, 09:36 AM	#10
smokekiki Mike Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: west chester pa Posts: 2,473	The only problem I have with using a block over lengthening the c-notch is depending what wheel-tire combo You have,with a flat the u-bolt and trailing arm will dig into the road instead of running on the tire.http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...id=68427&stc=1 __________________ 70'c/10, 71 suburban4x4 402bb, 72suburban 4/6 drop, 72k/5 4x4 blazer 4" lift 35 tires

03-15-2005, 12:34 PM	#12
Slammed67 Progress = 0% Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Kansas City, MO Posts: 2,108	Here is the problem.... Here is my solution.... I'd recommend making a longer bracket because on mine the track bar end is adjusted out almost all the way. __________________ Jason - '67 GMC swb \| '57 Bel-Air 4dr hardtop \| '56 210 4dr Wagon \| 2000 GMC Sierra

03-15-2005, 01:13 PM	#13
jamis F.A.S.T. president Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Florida Posts: 1,883	Nortwest auto fab makes this nice on that looks like it will work. I just ordered some pullies and an alt bracket from them.....they make some neet stuff...http://www.nwautofab.com/store/custo...5&cat=4&page=1 __________________ F.A.S.T. President and Founder Fabricators for the Advancement of Sawsall Technology "A fear of the Sawsall is a sign of retarded sexual and emotional maturity." ~Sigmund Freud, "General Introduction to Psychoanalysis" Last edited by jamis; 10-05-2007 at 07:12 AM.

03-15-2005, 02:21 PM	#14
Bagd72Chevy C10 Collector Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Baton Rouge, LA Posts: 417	I just stretched my notch a little when I ran into this problem. And I am using CPP's 2 inch blocks too.



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