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View Poll Results: Rear Suspension Options
Factory style Trailing arm susp. 6 35.29%
Parallel 4-link 6 35.29%
Triangulated 4-link 5 29.41%
Voters: 17. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 06-06-2005, 09:37 PM   #1
smbrouss70
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Trailing Arms or 4-Link?

I'm converting a 4x4 Blazer Frame over to 2wd, and I am asking for anyone's input as to whether I should incorporate the original style rear susp. with the trailing arms or use a 4-link setup, and if 4-link should I use a parallel bar set-up or a triangulated 4-link? What are the pro's and con's of each?

Just to give some info, it will be driven almost daily and bagged, but not a frame scraper just nice and low. I will probably won't race it too much but I do like to show off from time to time.
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Last edited by smbrouss70; 06-06-2005 at 09:43 PM.
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Old 06-06-2005, 10:28 PM   #2
jlaird
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depends on how low you want to go on what size tire. If you want to lay frame, on a good size tire, I'd go with a parallel 4link. But by the sound of your post, maybe keeping the trailing arms with some blocks might do you good. Got to tell us what size tire your running first.
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Old 06-06-2005, 11:14 PM   #3
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I'm only planning to run some 18x10's on the back, haven't decided on tire size yet but it shouldn't be too big. I do like a little meat on the rims though. And I know I don't want to lay frame, maybe to be about this low... maybe a little bit lower.
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R.I.P. Oscar

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1967 Pontiac GTO - Dad was the Original Owner
1970 Chevy 2wd SWB "Oscar's Truck"
1970 Chevy 2wd Blazer "Ratchet's Blazer"
2013 Chevy 2500HD Crew Cab Duramax/Allison Z71 LTZ "Brown Sugar"
2017 Chevy Suburban "BDB"
2020 Chevy Blazer Premier "Foxy"

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Last edited by smbrouss70; 06-06-2005 at 11:15 PM.
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Old 06-07-2005, 10:26 AM   #4
jlaird
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I'd stick with the trailing arms then going by that pic. No need for a 4-link unless you just want to spend extra money.

This place around here seems to be really slow lately. There's lots of guys here with lots to contribute, but I just don't know where they are.

But here's my two cents: replace the coils with bags, do a c-notch, and use a 2" block. That should get you right where you want to be. Only problem you will run into is the track bar hitting the frame right where the notch ends. I think some guys just leave it this way, or if you want, you can modify the notch to clear the track bar, or just relocate the track bar.
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Old 06-07-2005, 12:38 PM   #5
fastbagged68
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This all depends on overall tire height. But most likely the stock suspension will work for what you are doing. Do as jlaird said and you should be pretty low.
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Old 06-08-2005, 09:34 AM   #6
smbrouss70
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Apparently ya'll think I should use the stock setup. BUT... I'm thinking I want it a little bit lower than a typical c-notch will allow. I'm planning on doing a smaller step notch, basically to where the bottom of it is right where the top of the original frame-rail would be. My truck has a bolt-in c-notch with 29" tall rear tires, it doesn't have airbags, but with it loaded down and the rear susp. bottomed out it still looks a little too high. But I probably will do the lowering block thing to keep my trailing arms from hitting the frame.
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"If dogs don't go to heaven, when I die I want to go wherever they went." -- Will Rogers
R.I.P. Oscar

R.I.P. Ratchet

1967 Pontiac GTO - Dad was the Original Owner
1970 Chevy 2wd SWB "Oscar's Truck"
1970 Chevy 2wd Blazer "Ratchet's Blazer"
2013 Chevy 2500HD Crew Cab Duramax/Allison Z71 LTZ "Brown Sugar"
2017 Chevy Suburban "BDB"
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Old 06-08-2005, 09:37 AM   #7
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The more I look at that picture the higher it looks... maybe if I could get my ride height around there?!
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"If dogs don't go to heaven, when I die I want to go wherever they went." -- Will Rogers
R.I.P. Oscar

R.I.P. Ratchet

1967 Pontiac GTO - Dad was the Original Owner
1970 Chevy 2wd SWB "Oscar's Truck"
1970 Chevy 2wd Blazer "Ratchet's Blazer"
2013 Chevy 2500HD Crew Cab Duramax/Allison Z71 LTZ "Brown Sugar"
2017 Chevy Suburban "BDB"
2020 Chevy Blazer Premier "Foxy"

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Old 06-08-2005, 11:54 AM   #8
Slammed67
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Just for a comparison......

27" tall tires, stock trailing arms, air bags, bolt-in c-notch with axle tube resting on top of notch. My ride height is where the tops of the tires are about even with the tops of the fender arcs.

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Old 06-08-2005, 12:46 PM   #9
smbrouss70
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Thanks Slammed, I'm wanting a little bit more than that. I like how your front rim just barely tucks into the fender after you did your crossmember mod. Like this...
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Steven

"If dogs don't go to heaven, when I die I want to go wherever they went." -- Will Rogers
R.I.P. Oscar

R.I.P. Ratchet

1967 Pontiac GTO - Dad was the Original Owner
1970 Chevy 2wd SWB "Oscar's Truck"
1970 Chevy 2wd Blazer "Ratchet's Blazer"
2013 Chevy 2500HD Crew Cab Duramax/Allison Z71 LTZ "Brown Sugar"
2017 Chevy Suburban "BDB"
2020 Chevy Blazer Premier "Foxy"

Member of Louisiana Classic Truck Club (LCTC)

Shop Build

Last edited by smbrouss70; 06-08-2005 at 12:47 PM.
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Old 06-08-2005, 12:49 PM   #10
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I want it to look like that both front and rear on 18's which is I believe what you are running right, Slammed?
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Steven

"If dogs don't go to heaven, when I die I want to go wherever they went." -- Will Rogers
R.I.P. Oscar

R.I.P. Ratchet

1967 Pontiac GTO - Dad was the Original Owner
1970 Chevy 2wd SWB "Oscar's Truck"
1970 Chevy 2wd Blazer "Ratchet's Blazer"
2013 Chevy 2500HD Crew Cab Duramax/Allison Z71 LTZ "Brown Sugar"
2017 Chevy Suburban "BDB"
2020 Chevy Blazer Premier "Foxy"

Member of Louisiana Classic Truck Club (LCTC)

Shop Build
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