Problems with Muncie 4-speed Clutch/Linkage in 65 C10, Help!

[Michael MacDonald]

I removed a TH-350 to install a 1971 Muncie M22 4-Speed. I have a smallblock Chevy 350 engine. The transmission is installed but I ran into a few problems with the clutch and shifter linkage. Please let me know if anyone has any suggestions.

Problem 1: The bellcrank (used to connect the clutch pedal rod to the clutch fork) is supposed to pivot on a stud that is screwed into the side of the 350 block. The hole for the stud is not there. I cannot take out the block or drill and tap a hole in place. Is there an alternate way to actuate the clutch fork using the stock pedal? Aftermarket product or hydraulic system or custom build?

Problem 2: I used a tubular crossmember that I bought from one of the classic chevy truck parts guys to support the transmisison. The Hurst competition shifter short linkage rod (I think it is reverse) is hitting on the crossmember. Any suggestions? Should I turn the crossmember around to the pad mount is facing the rear instead of the front? Will that cause another linkage to hit the crossmember?

Thanks for the help in advance!

[bpmcgee]

The '60+ pickups (not sure how far forward) used a hydraulic clutch cylinder. Since the firewall is about the same, you should probably be able to adapt the transmission mounting and slave cylinder from that to work on your M22.

Brian

[magooster]

Originally Posted by bpmcgee

The '60+ pickups (not sure how far forward) used a hydraulic clutch cylinder. Since the firewall is about the same, you should probably be able to adapt the transmission mounting and slave cylinder from that to work on your M22.

Brian

60-63 used a hydraulic clutch setup

I'd like to know how it works out, because I'm planning to use either a Muncie or a Super T10 mated to a 400 small block in my '65 GMC. I was wondering how the clutch linkage would hookup myself.