Blazer Side Molding with Wood Trim

[blazerparts]

Project:
Install wood in side and tailgate moulding.

Materials:
5" X1/4" X 3' oak stock from Home Depot, side moulding kit, screws, spar varathane, stain.

Tools:
Table saw, jig saw, router, sander, hand tools.

Oak stock was ripped to fit in the middle of molding. The tailgate band required two pieces as it is greater than 3' long. Pieces were routered to round off sides. Pieces were then rough cut to fit molding. Radiuses were cut in oak to match molding. Oak and molding were then mated to check fit. Once fit was acceptable, oak was attached to molding by small screws, just a couple at each end. I found these screws at an electrical parts store, very small screws so they don't protrude from the face of the oak. Drill holes in molding and attach to oak via the screws from the backside. Once fit is acceptable, remove oak, number it on the backside along with the corresponding molding piece. Sand oak to your liking..........I sanded the radiuses and ends pretty heavy for a more gradual transition instead of being an abrupt edge. Oak edge prep is somewhat governed by the molding, specifically the door sections. The front of the door moldings are beveled, hence the oak must be held back from the front edge so it doesn't overhang.This leaves a reveal of the underlying molding black stripe. Also, the very front piece, the +/- 6" piece between the front fender and the bumper has a radius. Although I didn't do it, the oak can be warped using steam or soaking and pressure to fit this radius. When I do the truck the cab corners will require warping of the oak for a smooth fit.

Finish:

After finish sanding and cleaning, stain the oak or leave it natural. I used a golden oak stain and 3 coats of spar urathane, all sides.

Put it together:

Mate the numbered oak and molding pieces, using a towel or something to protect the wood. Use the existing holes, and drill new holes in back of molding, just penetrating the molding at the rate of two screws, one each side, every 8" or so. I used wood glue for extra grip in oak.

Attach to vehicle:

I just used sheet metal screws as my blazer is a daily driver, but I did apply silicon caulking to screws so door skins, quarters, etc, wouldn't be exposed to water.

Tailgate band:

Same as above, but I drilled the riveting of the letters off from the backside, installed the oak then drilled through the oak at the location where the letters were riveted, and used a two part adhesive to glue the letters on, using the remaining protrusions on the letters to mate with the drilled holes in the oak for the original alignment.