Register or Log In To remove these advertisements. |
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
07-08-2002, 03:54 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Texas
Posts: 189
|
Towing questions-->Step bumper, trailer brakes
In a couple of weeks, I'll be towing a 4,000+ lbs. tractor from south Texas to Dallas with my 70 C-10. I don't have a receiver hitch, just the factory step bumper. Will it be able to handle the weight of the tractor plus the trailer, or do I need to invest in a receiver hitch?
Also, I don't have a trailer brake unit on my truck, but I do have disc brakes. I won't be encountering any giant hills on my trip, so will trailer brakes be necessary? I don't trust anything the guys say at my local trailer dealer. |
07-08-2002, 03:56 PM | #2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: From Chicago, Live in Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 6,802
|
I would put a receiver hitch on your truck and I would install an electric brake control unit. I got mine on ebay for $28. Why take a chance?
__________________
Just sitting here contemplating contemplation. |
07-08-2002, 03:59 PM | #3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Texas
Posts: 189
|
Yea, I think it would be a good idea to do both, but I don't know if my funds will allow it. I also don't like hacking up my factory wiring harness to hook up the trailer brake unit.
|
07-08-2002, 04:01 PM | #4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: From Chicago, Live in Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 6,802
|
You do not have to hack. They have those new electrical clips that you dont have to do any cutting. I did it in my burb. Clean as can be. You just lie the wire you are going to use and clamp down.
__________________
Just sitting here contemplating contemplation. |
07-08-2002, 04:06 PM | #5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: From Chicago, Live in Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 6,802
|
I think it is illegal in most states to tow anything over 1000lbs without the towed vehicle having some sort of brakes.
__________________
Just sitting here contemplating contemplation. |
07-08-2002, 04:36 PM | #6 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,690
|
If you can only do one, bet the hitch...a class 4 if you can do it. But I do agree you'd be better off with both.
I had a pic of my old step bumper that showed why I hate them...it is ripped. |
07-08-2002, 04:48 PM | #7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Centreville,VA & Millsboro, DE
Posts: 47
|
DON'T FORGET ABOUT THE TRANNY
I would also get a trans cooler (other than the one in the rad.)
I used to tow my boat with a volvo and killed the tranny because it over heated!!
__________________
1971 Chevy Blazer(looks like Jimmy),1988 Ford E350 Van,2001 Nissan Sentra(Wife), 1993 Nissan Sentra (to/from work),1985 Dixie (boat) with a big Johnson,And I want my 1970 Buick Conv. back!!!! Centreville,VA |
07-08-2002, 05:29 PM | #8 |
It just doesn't matter
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Huntington Beach, Ca
Posts: 1,660
|
Please do not try to tow this tractor without a receiver hitch AND a brake controller....I tow alot of stuff all over , and trust me when I tell you that you cannot be too safe!!! You think that disc brakes is gonna help you stop the truck+trailer + a 4K tractor???? Not safely. And definately not in a panic situation.
Just a thought, when was the last time you replaced brake lines/ master cyl/ wheel cyl/ brake hoses? They never LOOK bad until you have to stop in an emergency... Not trying to be a jerk, just pointing out stuff that people who tow "casually" don't often think about. We don't want anything to happen to you OR the tractor !:p
__________________
05 Chevy Silverado..... A rogue BMW guy.... If you don't like me- TAKE A NUMBER; There are people ahead of you!! |
07-08-2002, 06:02 PM | #9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Texas
Posts: 189
|
Keep the comments coming, everyone! I don't get offended, that's why I posted this topic.
Brake lines, hoses, and cylinders are about 8 months old and less than 2,000 miles on them. Truck is in the shop right now getting a new master cylinder put on. I'm interested in the clips that 68 Suburban was talking about. I think I know what they are, but I'm not sure. Last edited by j-dogg; 07-08-2002 at 06:06 PM. |
07-08-2002, 06:18 PM | #10 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: From Chicago, Live in Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 6,802
|
I have a package of them around here some where. If I find them I will take a picture. Any auto parts store all WalMart has them.
__________________
Just sitting here contemplating contemplation. |
07-08-2002, 11:42 PM | #11 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: SE NM
Posts: 769
|
I bought a plug for 10 bucks that you install between the plug for your tail lights. Got it at a parts store.
I also found an 80s something burb in a junkyard that had the factory trailer harness with the big 6 pin plug. The guy threw this in with the other stuff I had. Both of these plug right in to the factory harness. So now I got a 4pin for little trailers and the 6 pin for big ones. Still have to find a brake controller though. So if you have time scout some junkyards.
__________________
The more I learn about women, the more I love my truck. |
07-09-2002, 12:33 AM | #12 |
It just doesn't matter
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Huntington Beach, Ca
Posts: 1,660
|
another thing to consider, if the trailer you are using has "surge" type brakes or actual electric ones....If it has the surge type, you can put all of the brake controllers on you want and it won't change a thing...:p :p
Surge type brakes work just about as well for something like what you are pulling...most utility type trailers have them ....I don't know whose trailer you are using, but it might also be a good idea to check those trailer bearings for some grease... I have seen WAY too many folks on the side of the road with a seized bearing....Just food for thought....I am in NO WAY preachin'.....trust me, I had to walk 8 miles just 2 weeks ago because I left home without a jack... AND I missed having a cold frosty adult beverage with Andy because of it!!!!!
__________________
05 Chevy Silverado..... A rogue BMW guy.... If you don't like me- TAKE A NUMBER; There are people ahead of you!! |
07-09-2002, 12:41 AM | #13 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,690
|
|
07-09-2002, 06:29 AM | #14 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Fullerton,NE
Posts: 380
|
Best thing I ever did was trade my old trailer in for my 18' w/ electric brakes. Installed the Tekonsha controller. It has been the difference in some panic stops, believe me! Make sure you have brakes and a receiver!! You may think you can get along (and I have taken my share of chances too), but it is the OTHER driver out there that causes you to make those panic stops. You won't regret adding those items, they're cheaper than paying for a new front end in a collision.
I bought my trailer in 1998 and it has over 75,000 miles on it now. It has seen trucks,cars,tractors, constr supplies, all sorts of things and is almost always hooked to one of the trucks. Just glad the dealer convinced me to go with the electric brakes!
__________________
69 short step 68 50th Anniversary Gold/ White lwb 72 2wd Blazer 63 Studebaker Avanti 85 Avanti 66 Studebaker Cruiser 49 Studebaker pickup 3-49 Studebaker 1 1/2 truck 94 White/ GMC coe (cabin hauler) 95 chev 2015 chev Duramax 2500 |
07-09-2002, 09:17 AM | #15 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Eastern Kansas
Posts: 488
|
Not trying to stir anything here, but would be weary of the type of wire connectors that just clamp on the wire. If you are talking about the type that I think you are, they are called scotch locks or something like that. The part that contacts the wire is shaped like a V that slices through the insulation when you "clamp down" and contacts the wire. If you are in an environment that isn't hot and dry, they will allow moisture into the connector and corrode it and the wire it is connected to, which makes for intermittent connections. Not something you want for trailer brakes (or for any other electrical use). I am not talking theory on the corrosion, as I have had to rewire several trailers that used the %^$#@ things. They are no good!! You can buy connectors that plug into the junction where the factory wiring harness splits between the frame and the bed. Would be a much better way to go. You've gotten some good advice above, get brakes on the trailer some how. Depending on the step bumper, some will handle the load no problem, some won't. If it is the factory step bumper that I'm thinking about, I wouldn't recomend using it as it is a welded unit with the center section welded to the parts that actually hook to the frame. Too many points for a weld to start to crack, which would lead to complete hitch failure. Crews has a lot of good advice for you. Good luck with the trip.
__________________
'72 Cheyenne. AC, PS, PB, Rear slider window, tilt. Light yellow (grapefruit yellow according to new sales literature from '72) '56 Chevy short step V-8 (My dad bought it new!!) '70 Olds 442 convertible '70 Olds Rallye 350 |
07-09-2002, 09:27 AM | #16 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: From Chicago, Live in Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 6,802
|
Yellow Cheyenne, I used these on my 68 burb where the wires are inside the truck. Also those harnesses that work on the pickups do not work on Burbs because the wiring harnes is inside the truck. So I am not worried about wires getting wet. Also, he was talking about "cutting" his wiring harness. I was just giving him an option not to cut. I ahve never had any problems with these clips.
__________________
Just sitting here contemplating contemplation. |
07-09-2002, 09:37 AM | #17 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Eastern Kansas
Posts: 488
|
'68 burb. Like I said, not trying to offend. You have used them in a location that is ok and ideal for that type of connector. Not exposed to weather, plus you are in AZ, which is also not subjected to wet, cold, salty roads. When I wired mine for lights/brakes, the adapters weren't available. Rather than cut the actual wires, I removed about an inch of the insulation and soldered the wires together. The junctions were then well taped. Haven't had any problems in the last 11 years. Just goes to show that everything has its place. Scotch locks inside and not exposed to wet/salty conditions is ok. On the outside of vehicle that is exposed to the elements, I wouldn't use them. As stated above, it isn't just an opinion or theory, I've rewired several trailers that were built using them. They will eventually fail when exposed to weather.
__________________
'72 Cheyenne. AC, PS, PB, Rear slider window, tilt. Light yellow (grapefruit yellow according to new sales literature from '72) '56 Chevy short step V-8 (My dad bought it new!!) '70 Olds 442 convertible '70 Olds Rallye 350 |
07-09-2002, 09:49 AM | #18 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: From Chicago, Live in Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 6,802
|
I didn't take offense, just explaining where I was coming from
__________________
Just sitting here contemplating contemplation. |
07-09-2002, 04:43 PM | #19 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Waxahachie, TX, USA
Posts: 114
|
j-dogg:
Where in S. Texas will you be coming from? I-35 from San Antonio to Dallas has a lot of hills. I've made the drive many times. With the wife's 'burb, it downshifts on most of the big hills if I leave the cruise control on. Even if you have a route that doesn't go through the hill country, I would agree with everyone else that you should have brakes on the trailer. If the tractor is 4000+ lbs, the trailer must be another 2000+. Technically, this is more combined weight that an class IV hitch unless you use a weight distributing hitch (5000 lb. limit with standard hitch and 10,000 with weight distributing). You need a good hitch and brakes for the kind of distance you are going.
__________________
Scott70Chevy '70 CST: LWB, Fleetside, black ext., black/gray int., 350-4bbl, 3-speed, 12 bolt 3.07, deep dish rallye wheels, NO RUST! |
07-09-2002, 04:58 PM | #20 |
GYRO GEARLOOSE
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Nevada City, CAEverett, WA
Posts: 361
|
On most Toyotas in the engine compartment are green round connectors, pretty big. They are identical in size and configuration to the gm 4 way connectors. They are also used in pairs so you can clip out a couple at the junk yard, then make up a trailer connector you can use on your truck, or on any other gm car from the 60's 70's or 80's!.
I also prefer the old hydraulic brake controllers, they are in 1 out of 3 trucks at the junk yards.
__________________
Nevada City, CA Everett, Washington 57 3/4 rat, 235, 3spd 66 C-10 Panel, SWB. 350 from '68, 200R4 tranny, 3.07 rear ratio, restoring 68 C10 LWB 350 4spd, 4.56 rear dump runner 82 Camaro, 305, THM-200-R4 84 Monte Carlo 305 TH350, land tuna 85 Tercel SW, snow runner DISGRACED OUTLAW MEMBER OF THE DRUM BRAKE CLUB |
07-09-2002, 05:15 PM | #21 |
Genuine smartass
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Enid, OK - soon to be Rapid City, SD
Posts: 126
|
Go for a hitch and brake controller!!!! There may not be any huge mountains to slide down, but there are plenty of creatures out there ready to jump out in front of your fast movin' '70. By creatures, I mean minivans, imports, and the occasional careless animal. I've just got a nasty picture in my mind of a '70 Chev w/ all 4 brakes locked up and a trailer pushin' it around like a shopping cart. I've had all types of brake controllers (hydraulic and electric - pendulum and the new sensor style) and any of 'em will work good, just make sure they are mounted securely. Had a buddy mount it to the bottom of his dash w/velcro - every time he hit a bump it would hit the ground and lock up the trailer brakes. Very bad mojo :p
__________________
'99 Chevy 3/4 Burb 4x4 '98 Chevy 1/2 Short Bed 4x4 Former 67 & 72 owner Wanted: 1972 10 or 20 4X4, V8 4spd |
07-09-2002, 05:27 PM | #22 |
Binder Rep
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Salcha, AK
Posts: 1,506
|
Small trailer, allright.. but no way a tractor! You want the trailer brakes, trust me. One of my dad's friends has a '98 F250 superduty (with the IH diesel of course). Anyways, he used to tow his tractor with that reciever hitch with no brakes, he said it pushed that huge superduty around like a toy, imagine what it'd do to your truck! Those superdutys weigh a LOT more. We got him to install a brake controller and we wired the trailer to have the trailer brake plug and I don't think he'd ever be willing to drive without the brakes again. Set up right you can hardly tell it's back there when stopping.
|
07-09-2002, 06:55 PM | #23 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,690
|
I-35 is a scarey place...esp in Waco and in Austin.
|
07-09-2002, 08:45 PM | #24 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Texas
Posts: 189
|
I'll be coming from McAllen (it's about ten minutes from the Mexican border). I make the trip between San Antonio and Dallas about once every 3 months. No giant hills on that stretch. I may get to use my brother's truck with brake controller and receiver hitch if I'm lucky. If I'm unlucky, brake controller is first on my list.
Thanks for all the input! I'll still read if anyone wants to post more. |
07-09-2002, 08:58 PM | #25 |
Binder Rep
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Salcha, AK
Posts: 1,506
|
I'd say receiver should be first, controller second. both are important to have.
|
Bookmarks |
|
|