58 3100 Ifs

[dwcsr]

For anyone thats interested heres a pic of a 58 3100 frame with a 75 C10 IFS. I'm just about finished with the frame now with only the minor add ons left to go. On the back I used a 12 bolt truck narrowed a with a tri bar airride and explorer disc brakes.

[dwcsr]

one more

[Cisco]

Man, that frame is looking really good, what engine/tranny are you planning on running?

Cisco

[dwcsr]

Thanks,
I using a BBC 460 ci TH400. I still have to get the tranny beefed up and the drive shaft made. I'm finishing the air ride this week end and hopefully getting the engine restarted and setup. I'll post some more pics as I get it done.

[dwcsr]

Here are some of the rear valves and plumbing

[CAL 58 GMC]

That's looking really good! Real beefy looking! Did you weld on the C-10 clip to the 58 fram or is the fram all from the C-10?

[dwcsr]

Its the original 58 frame. I tapered the front rails and bolted the C10 cross member up to it. I wrote an article outlining how to do. Its posted here http://www.webrodder.com/article.php?AID=264&SID=60
and
http://www.webrodder.com/article.php?AID=261&SID=60 for squaring the frame

[dwcsr]

The headers just about fit and I had to raise the engine about 3" to get it where it is. I wrapped the headers to keep the heat off the paint, valves and lines.

I also used a rear brake damper from DPI in place of a proportioning valve. it prevents lock up of the rear wheels without reducing the pressure so you get full brake pressure to the rear while stopping. Not the 60% -75%$ from a prportioning valve.

I have the air vales all roughed in and plumbed with copper. I just need to do the wiring for them.

[CAL 58 GMC]

Looks like some good progress! The header look like a tight fit, not much room between the frame rails on these old trucks. Keep posting updates!

[dwcsr]

I decided to put a Tbird power rack on the truck. I'll keep you posted on progress and pic's. I have all the parts worked out and ready to install. I just need to add the mounting pins to the C10 front subframe.

[Ice68]

Nice Job on the frame. I'm working on my '59 Chevy. I got the bed off and now I need to take the front fenders off.
Thanks,
Leroy

[dwcsr]

I finally got the rack on. I just need to make some space for the steering shaft between the frame and header. I used an 86 Tbird rack with 96 Tbrid tie rod ends re-threaded to 9/16-18. I also cut the front member to go straight across rather than have that bulge in the front so the rack had no interference. The mounts are tilted 15 degrees downward to get the steering shaft in a useable position. The mounts are 3/4" round stock tapped with 7/16 thread to hold the unit on. I welded the 3/4" to the cross member and then I sleeved the back side of the mount with 1" DOM with a 3/4 ID and welded that to the cross member as well. The DOM slips partway into the rubber bushing. I then welded 2 side braces on each piece of DOM. The 96 tie rod ends are a different taper so I made some tapered bushing to match the C10 tie rod hole on the spindle to the Tbird tie rod end.

[CAL 58 GMC]

Nice Job!! Looks like a tight fit near your headers. Are you going to have re-work the header were your steering shaft is?

[dwcsr]

I have to either find some tight tuck headers or rework that one tube. I think I'lll try the tube first and see what happens. I don't want to spend $300 on headers

[dwcsr]

I got some free time and fabbed the exhaust system. I used a Flowmaster 2.5" kit. It came with just enough to do the job. Got some rubber hangers for a 98 s10 they work real well for hanging pipes and mufflers.

[dwcsr]

I setup some electric fans and relays and added a 170 amp CS-130 alternator.
If anyone is interested in doing this let me know I can give you the parts list. I used one relay per fan and a 5th relay to operate them. The temp switch cuts in at 195 and keeps it at 180 most of the time. I have to come up with a permanent mounting for the fans. Right now they are zip tied to see if it would all work.

The relays are wired one to each fan and I have 4 fans 2- 9" and 2- 8". The 5th relay operates the relay bank so that they will shut off when you turn off the key and not run that load thru the key switch. I have about 2 amps from the IGN switch to the 5th relay and it then goes thru the temp switch to ground when the temp is up to 195 it grounds and then powers the 4 fan relays.

The water pump was a clearance problem so that’s why the 4 fan setup I needed a hole in the center for the water pump pulley, it was to close to run a standard fan. The 9" fans are 1500 CFM each and the 8" are 1000 CFM each so I end up with a total of 5000 CFM that should cool 500 hp. The fans are ZIRGO fans and cost about $70.00 each

[dwcsr]

And last but not least my new Denny's driveshaft Nitrous unbreakable drive shaft.

[qksilver]

looks good, one question though about the rack. What about bump steer? I looked at a bunch of racks. Talked to a couple of Nascar builders around here. They said that the rack joints should be in the same plane as the suspension pivot points, from center to center of the pivots points should be the same width or as close as possible to the center to center of the inner rack joints.

[dwcsr]

The rack joints are dead center in the frame. The outer rod ends are slightly downward at ride height. It isn't perfect and I may have to relocate the rack downward, but I have some clearence issues and want to drive it to see if it is a problem before moving it.

In order to move it down I have to get tube arms and I do have some new DJM arms but they are sloppy in the bushings both upper and lower so I didn't use them and ofcourse they wouldn't take them back after I mounted them. So I'm just a little leary about buying another $500 set of arms that may not work. I don't think I would buy DJM again the spindles needed a lot of work to get the calipers to fit correctly.

But your right they should be straight and on the same plain as the rack itself both front to back and up and down.

[qksilver]

No problem, some of the guys I talk to use all the big time explanations, I wanted practical experience, thanks

[dwcsr]

I know what you mean, explainations so long they start ineventing words. Not all NASCAR stuff works on the street but steering geometry certainly does and certainly rack geometry.

You got me thinking about it I think I will just do it right before I drive it. One less thing to worry about.

[dwcsr]

I re-did the rack mounting and moved it down 2". I was able to modify the existing stock A arm and it just clears the rack left mount. So I'm centered and the tie rods are parallel to the rack or very close to it, up and down and front to back. I just need to run my laser level on it to be sure. The steering shaft was a major PIA but I was able to modify the left motor mount for clearance. I also dished the frame where the shaft housing comes off the rack. I have to raise the motor 2" and that takes care of the header clearance problem with the steering shaft. I had the rack on and off so many times today I almost wanted to use Velcro to mount it.

[dwcsr]

its done. I have the rack in and squared up. The steering shaft clears the header and motor mount, not by a lot but it should be ok.

[dwcsr]

This is with engine in and the header on. I am finally done with the fabrication on this frame. I need to put some snubbers on the rear axle and paint the frame again then start on the cab.

[Bishops Trucks]

Header wrap has been known to prematuely rust out and melt headers because they don't let out moisture or the extreme heat they produce. Just putting in my .02 worth.