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04-18-2002, 02:10 AM
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#1 |
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Between Trucks...
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Los Angeles, CA.
Posts: 3,830
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backup lights...
aarghh!!!
got my dash lights working a couple weeks ago...(thanks y'all) but now my backup lights and windshield wipers are gone... got good ground on the reverse lights... ------------------ beat it to fit, paint it to match...
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Beat it to fit, Paint it to match... 
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04-18-2002, 06:09 PM
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#2 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Sherwood AR
Posts: 553
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TippityTop
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67 C-10 shortwide '06 Triumph Thruxton '09 Harley 'Lectra Glide '95 Z-71 two door Tahoe |
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04-18-2002, 06:17 PM
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#3 |
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Account Suspended
Join Date: May 2000
Location: IL
Posts: 0
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Sinister, i suppose you have been all through the instrument panel ?
what was cuase of lights not workin ? you inspected all the plugs yet, and checked for hot wire at wiper motor and at reverse switch on column ? (3 speed and auto tranny) ------------------ Randy- Lincoln, IL r68c30@hotmail.com -71 C-10 350/CH465/3.07, assemble it, yeah right, that'll happen in this world,(not) -84 Z28 Camaro 5.0L 700R4, 3.73, beater, paid way too much for it like an idiot,, -84 Firebird SE 2.8L T-5, rod knocking, dammit,, -82 Firebird 350 4bolt (TBL)/TH350, not running, dammit... buy/sell/hoard/trade most any GM vehicle parts of any kind -parting out: '81 Cutlass Supreme Brougham *Paint is overrated © RSS Enterprises 2000 [This message has been edited by Fast68Chevy (edited April 18, 2002).] |
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04-18-2002, 06:39 PM
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#4 |
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Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Seattle, WA, USA
Posts: 5,817
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How do you know you have a good ground at the backup light housings?
The only way to know that is to get a known power source and verify you're getting ~12v between power and the ground you're testing. Find out if you have power back there at all first: Use your taillight (if that's working) by holding a positive probe to the hot part of the lamp housing and then probe around on your frame with the negative probe. Once you get a reading of ~12v then you know you have a good ground there (where the negative probe went), and then move the positive probe to the backup light center pole. If you don't get the same reading you're NOT getting power to the backup lights. Try setting up a jumper wire on your backup switch at the base of your column. Just take a wire and plug it into both sides of the backup side of the switch (light green/dark green, NOT purple/white or whatever). You should then get power to the backup lights. If not then check the harness all the way back from the cab. You have a break somewhere, and you're not getting power to the lights. The harness runs from the fuse block to the rear of the truck via a 4 strand harness that turns into 6 after the last xmember on the frame. Somewhere in there power is being interrupted if all the above checks don't yield the ~12v it takes to light the lamps. Start on the extremities (the lamp housings themselves) and work your way in (to the fuse block). Good luck. ------------------ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd w/ 350ci/400THM and a wood bed! '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd w/ ORIGINAL 350ci/4sp Manual and a wood bed (parts beast). Seattle, WA. *See pics of my trucks and project at www.webshots.com!
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'69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA. |
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04-19-2002, 01:07 AM
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#5 |
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Between Trucks...
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Los Angeles, CA.
Posts: 3,830
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i set my multimeter on ohms...
put the red lead to the housing and the black lead to ground to see if i have a good ground connection... i'm gonna see what i can do in the morning... thanks guys...
__________________
Beat it to fit, Paint it to match...
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04-19-2002, 01:10 AM
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#6 |
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Between Trucks...
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Los Angeles, CA.
Posts: 3,830
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i set my multimeter on ohms...
put the red lead to the housing and the black lead to ground to see if i have a good ground connection... i'm gonna see what i can do in the morning... thanks guys...
__________________
Beat it to fit, Paint it to match...
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