C-notch step by step.

[Rokcrln]

I had a few guys ask for info on this so here it is. Keep in mind I have the frame flipped over for easy of work and better pic's but it can be done with the body inplace and up right.

C-notch time! Well first off I want to say the kit is very well made and is from CPP. What I do not like about it is the directions, they leave something to be desired. First thing you want to do is remove the rivits in ther bottom of the coil spring plate(2 per side) and then remove 2 more infront of the panard mount. Next hold up the Notch and aling the front of the side plate with the rear edge of teh oval hole in the frame. Once this is aligned then mark the frame for cutting. Cut the notch tight at first and trim it little by little to fit just right making sure the oval hole lines up as shown. You will also need to trim off a bit of the coil spring mounting plate on the out side of the frame so your notch sits tight to the side of the frame rail. Once this is done, clamp the plate to the frame and smack it with a hammer to ensurte it is seated all the way. Install the bolts that you can and snug then up but do not tighten yet. Now mark all the rest of your holes that need drilling and center punch then drill out to 7/16" (for CPP's kit). After all holes are drilled remove the plates and paint any part that will be clamped together as you wil not be able to get to this after they are installed. Now tighten the bolts (note one bolt had to be cut because it hit another bolt next to the panard mount) in the order givin in the directions. Now paint everything and install the bump stops in the top of the notch's. We will be welding ours in some spots (per the customers directions) for added strenght and painting the entire frame with POR15. Well that is as far as I got tonight. I will Tig it up tomarrow and move on to the front suspention.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Rokcrln]

A few more.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

.... Next hold up the Notch and align the front of the side plate with the rear edge of the oval hole in the frame. Once this is aligned then mark the frame for cutting. Cut the notch tight at first and trim it little by little to fit just right making sure the oval hole lines up as shown.

Kevin,
I used the CCP notch & I agree about the instructions being 'vague'. One thing I encountered was aligning the bolt-in notch w/the oval hole on the side of the frame. If I did things according to the intructions, my notch would not be centered over the rear axle tubes @ ride height.

Instead, for my Beater 68 I scribed the C/L of the housing tubes after removing the springs/shocks & raising the rear end flush against the bottom of the frame rail. I then measured/marked the C/L on the notch. I aligned both C/L's & that's where I installed the notch..... which was almost an inch difference vs. the instructions.

The main reason I did it this way was because when I had the c-notch 're-engineered' for my RestoRod (I had a professional Rod Shop re-do a 'buddies' hack job) they didn't center the rear @ ride height & now the c-notch is off center & hits the rear end.

I decided then that I could do a better job & was glad I verified vs assuming the instructions were 100%. There might be slight variances between frames so it's worth the extra effort before cutting begins.

[Rokcrln]

SCOTI~ You are right you should always double check this before cutting. The only reason I did not add that to the post is because I checked three frames in my shop and all of thenm were right at 7.5" from rear of oval (chassie dimention point) to CL of axel tube. But you never know if someone is in a hurry to go home for the day he may rush the jig prosses when building your C notch's and get it off a bit. Good call..

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[67Fleet]

Originally Posted by XXL

Ja. That's mine. I did shave the lock bumps on the inside as well. Those doors are now down the road, but I shaved the new ones that way too (as well as suiciding them).

BTW, on the CPP notch, I also mod'd the passenger side unit by making the notch part longer to accommodate the ECE Super Track Bar. (Notches have also moved down the road).

XXL, can you elaborate on what exactly you had to modify for the super track bar? My CPP notch just showed up today, and hopefully my track bar will be here tomorrow. I'll be installing both this weekend.

[Alvin]

I think there's some pics of the same interference on this page:

http://www.jayspot.com/pages/67gmc-chassis.html

An easy way of fixing this is to run 2" lowering blocks, and place the trackbar mount under the block on top of the trailing arm. So it will go trailing arm, trackbar mount, lowering block, axle from bottom to top. Or at least thats what I remember some others doing. Sure hope it works, I'm planning on doing that.

[Rokcrln]

What he is talking about is the track bar hits the frame since now the axel goes up inside the frame a bit. On mine I just took a piece of 2" round tubing and sliced it in half and used it as a small c-notch. Works fine but I now too may be loosing the notches in lue of a few more inches Just how much are you aloud to remove off the bottom of your license plate?

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[67Fleet]

I've got 1-1/2" blocks now. Hopefully that will be enough. CPP must have changed the track-bar cuz my c-notches look identical to the pics in Rokcrln's post, and I had to get my track-bar from ECE since CPP was out. I'm just glad my notch's got here on time....CPP is lacking in customer service. Sat on hold one day for 15 minutes before i gave up. Tried again the next day and same thing, but stayed on until someone finally picked up only to find out they didn't have 1 of the 2 things I wanted. And thank god I asked if they were both in stock because they weren't going to tell me. I wonder how much business they lose because they don't have enough phone reps to take all the calls from people wanting to buy stuff. ECE answered in 4 rings.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by Alvin

I think there's some pics of the same interference on this page:

http://www.jayspot.com/pages/67gmc-chassis.html

An easy way of fixing this is to run 2" lowering blocks, and place the trackbar mount under the block on top of the trailing arm. So it will go trailing arm, trackbar mount, lowering block, axle from bottom to top. Or at least thats what I remember some others doing. Sure hope it works, I'm planning on doing that.

That's what I did and it worked out great.

Rob