58 3100 cab rebuild

[dwcsr]

I just started to do the rust repair on the cab so I though I would start a new thread. I will post the pics as I get them.

I just started to practice on the spare cab and so far its actually easier than I though it would be.

I have to do the following repairs:

Indent the firewall for the Big Block that is setback. So I have to create a firewall recess.
Fix the cab corners, inner and outer.
Replace the sepand rocker
Replace the lowe hing mount
Replace the pillar packets

[Kabwe]

Good luck man you can do it.

[Jebb1978]

SWEET!
Please take lots of pics. We are going to be doing a lot of the same work on the cab that is on my truck now before it goes on the 1 ton. I am sure with your fab skills this won't be too tough.

[dwcsr]

thanks but the first panel didn't go so well.

I attempted the cab corner and it turned out a bit disappointing. The welds were bad and the fit was just not there and the bottom of the corner was wrinkled badly from the stamping process.

I did some more research and found an article by Martinsr about welding panels on. It laid it out in clear language. Clean metal, good parts and take your time. If the weld starts looking nasty stop clean it and start again. Work slow and spot every inch or so and go back a spot again until you have it done. Leave a gap about the thickness of the mig wire so you get good penetration. Make sure the parts fit well. Sounded simple enough and it was.

Below is the first attempt on the cab corner and the second was the hinge mount with the gleaned knowledge of others.

I'll make sure I take a step by step on the other side. This side is a pratice on the practice cab. I'm waiting on parts so I can do the pillar pockets which I am not going to weld in permanently so I can use them on the other cab.

[55ChevyPU]

better late than never, sorry again I didnt post this sooner

http://brotherstrucks.com/techarticl...20INSTALLATION

[dwcsr]

Thanks, I saw that one. The part of fitting wasn't a problem due to the fact that the panel wouldn't have fit at all anyway it was just to poor a quality stamping. I bought it several years ago and things have gotten much better in the stampings they sell today. Brothers info was helpfull in the corner and replacing the hinge plate.

The panel welding technique was the major problem. But once I read the article by Martinsr it seemed much easier and the hinge plate looks better than the corner welds. I'm going to try the other side with the last of the bad panels I have it should be much better

[dwcsr]

I finally got my parts in from several of the board vendors. everything looks good and seems to fit close enough that I can adjust them without much work. This is the pillar pocket clamped together so I could see how everything fit in the cab. The assembly manual was most helpful in determining which pieces go on first.

[dwcsr]

I started to patch some rusted thru spots on the cab. I patched the air box just below the inlet grill. You can see the floor pan in the corner needs a patch as well. I am going to attempt that tomorrow. This is the piece I made for that section. I bought a 18" "Mighty Mini-bender" from Northern tools, if you were looking at that bender don't bother is blows badly.

[dwcsr]

This is the wire I used most often. Its great stuff. It cost between $24 and $34 for a 10# spool. Its made for sheet and panel welding.

[dwcsr]

One of the interesting things I found out from talking to Rico-rods and mbgmike is that even tough the parts may say Key parts or Triplus it’s the same company. I think Triplus is the Taiwan company and Keyparts is the American arm for distribution. The logos are identical except for the name. DII is American but also gets stamped in Taiwan from a different stamper. All the stampings were actually much better than I thought they would be from past experience. The cab corners bottoms were not wrinkled and the pillar pocket parts were just as good.

[Jebb1978]

That patch looks pretty good. I am starting to second guess the idea of doing my own patch panels however.

[dwcsr]

I started the rust in the floor/firewall where it meets the side in the pillar post and air box. I cut the rust back and made some replacement pieces. I'm going to weld them in when the sun goes down a little. I took a bunch of pictures so I know how it goes back together.

[Jebb1978]

Whoa dwcsr! That's a bold move, that is what I like about your project. You fear nothing! You are a real go getter. I admire that, fear is all that is keeping my project simple.

[dwcsr]

I think if I didn’t have that spare cab I might not be so bold and I really don’t want to have to send out my cab for body work if I don’t have to. So nothing ventured is nothing gained. If I can do a reasonably good job on this one then I will know what I should send out for repairs and what I can do myself. So far it looks like cab corners are going to be done at a shop, but I still have one more practice side and one more old cruddy corner I can use.

[CAL 58 GMC]

Nice work dwcsr! Keep the pics coming.

[dwcsr]

I got the pieces fitted and welded in. Its to late to grind the welds so I will do that in the morning. Here is what I did tonight.

[chevyrestoguy]

From the looks of your first attempt to the last pics of the toe board corner (that's a tricky piece!), you have come a long way in a short time. Having a spare cab to learn on is a great way to get proficient without going through the painful learning curve on your "keeper" cab. Great job!
________
Vapir no2

[Igotachevyor2]

looks good keep the pics coming

[Jebb1978]

Nice clean work there buddy! Keep em coming, we can all learn something

[dwcsr]

Thanks Guys, These are the before and after pictures. The welds aren't as good as they look in the pictures I've got some pin holes to plug up and I couldn't get in close on the kick panel area below the air grill with a grinder. I also didn't get the sheets exactly flat with each other on the floor. They looked flat but were ever so slightly off and only showed up when I ground off the excess weld. Their very close and I was able to hammer and dolly them closer. But I think with that spot being covered with floor mats and kick panel it should be alright. Fortunately that spot on my good cab is solid.

[dwcsr]

I just bought a 36" 12 gauge sheet metal brake with stand from harbor freight for $199. It seems to be the same one as the Northern tool brake. The major difference is $99.00 shipping that Northern wanted verses the $9.00 from Harbor. So I should have it fairly soon and I can start on the firewall engine recess. I need to go back 4" to clear the distributor and vavle covers and still leave some clearance.

[dwcsr]

I made a template for the left firewall and toe board and cut out the pieces. These are the pics of what I have done so far. I'm going to make a panel behind the dist removable so I can get at it without acrobatics.

To stiffen the panel a little I made an indent by tack welding a 1/2 x 1/2 angle iron to the back and hammering a piece of round stock from the top side into the angle. It work pretty well I don't think I would want to make floor board that way but for this small channel it was fine.

[dwcsr]

Steering column mounted

[dwcsr]

A little more progress. To busy at work to get it all done quickly. Made some templates.

I got the right side fabed up and now I just need to fill in the middle and top. I'm not bothering to fit the sides to closely in this cab.

I notched the column foot so it would be straight with the column hanger and steering shaft.

[Apache]

Looking good, its coming along nicely.