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Old 05-30-2006, 07:02 AM   #1
special-K
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Rear Drop Qs:

I want to go down 6" on the rear of my`72.I don`t need to c-notch?If I use 6" springs,I need shock relocators?If I go 5" springs/1" blocks,do I need relocators?Either way I have to buy relocators or blocks.So,what would be best?
Also,I want to keep the stock spindles and use -3" springs.I`m looking for the cheapest drop.
ECE sells the 6" rear drop for $359
I can get -3" springs,relocators,and shocks for $250+/-
Is that about as cheap(low)as I can go?This is about $200 cheaper than the ECE complete kit w/drop spindles.
Looking for opinions/suggestions,thanks
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Old 05-30-2006, 07:33 AM   #2
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Smile Re: Rear Drop Qs:

Quote:
Originally Posted by special-K
I want to go down 6" on the rear of my`72.I don`t need to c-notch?If I use 6" springs,I need shock relocators?If I go 5" springs/1" blocks,do I need relocators?Either way I have to buy relocators or blocks.So,what would be best?
Also,I want to keep the stock spindles and use -3" springs.I`m looking for the cheapest drop.
ECE sells the 6" rear drop for $359
I can get -3" springs,relocators,and shocks for $250+/-
Is that about as cheap(low)as I can go?This is about $200 cheaper than the ECE complete kit w/drop spindles.
Looking for opinions/suggestions,thanks
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=199893
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Old 05-30-2006, 08:49 PM   #3
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Re: Rear Drop Qs:

IVE GOT A 5 IN DROP WITH 1IN BLOCK AND i WOULD NOT RECOMEND THE BLOCKS FOR VIBRATION PURPOSES. Sorry I just realized I was in all caps,You can go with a 6in drop without c notch and still have about 1-1.5in before you hit the frame and thats from ECE.
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Old 05-30-2006, 11:56 PM   #4
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Re: Rear Drop Qs:

Quote:
Originally Posted by shortbed70
IVE GOT A 5 IN DROP WITH 1IN BLOCK AND i WOULD NOT RECOMEND THE BLOCKS FOR VIBRATION PURPOSES. Sorry I just realized I was in all caps,You can go with a 6in drop without c notch and still have about 1-1.5in before you hit the frame and thats from ECE.
Why do you single out the blocks as the culprit?
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Old 06-01-2006, 12:58 PM   #5
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Re: Rear Drop Qs:

Look here for drop springs on sale $95: http://www.gmcpauls.com/SALE_SPECIALS.htm
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Old 06-02-2006, 12:38 PM   #6
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Re: Rear Drop Qs:

Hmmm, I have 4" springs w/ 2" blocks and no vibration...
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Old 06-02-2006, 12:58 PM   #7
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Re: Rear Drop Qs:

I just intalled the ece 4 in springs and shock relocators. rides much better. I use to have car springs in the rear wich dropped it about 4 in but it killed the shocks
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Old 06-02-2006, 11:59 PM   #8
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Re: Rear Drop Qs:

As far as I know a 5" drop spring and a 6" drop spring cost the same. I don't see the advantage of a 5" spring with a block. You can use a 3" spring in the front but it wants to fall over whenever you jack up the truck. I have a buddy with 3" springs in the front of his 67 and he wants to swap over to a drop spindle. Even with his bumpstops trimmed he often bottoms out in the front end. My ECE 6" rear drop left me about 2.5" between the frame and axle. The guys at ECE claim you should have 3" clearance with this drop. Mine does bottom out from time to time and a notch is probably in my future.
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Old 06-03-2006, 06:55 AM   #9
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Re: Rear Drop Qs:

I thought about 5" springs/1" blocks instead of 6" springs if I could do w/o shock relocators and the kit I was looking at used 5" springs.They are the same price.Thanks for the answers.I was trying to get around changing spindles,but it really won`t save me much money if I do it all right.$800 for ECE kit/$600+/- for ECE 6" rear drop kit,3"front springs($89/Brothers),shocks.With the ECE Spindle kit I can get it lower up front,too.I`ll save money somewhere else.I really want to build this "Cheap" hotrod shortbed.Even if it costs alot of money,lol.I bought 8x15 steel OEMs foe $100.Then,spent $260 on sandblasting & red powdercoat.I bought the factory full wheelcovers and now I need the widest tires in a narrow whitewall I can find/fit.Those will prolly have to be custom$$$.The biggest I`ve found are 235/75x15s.
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Old 06-03-2006, 11:45 AM   #10
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Re: Rear Drop Qs:

I know I'm gonna get some heat here, but I have to throw in my opinion. I have always had better luck with anything that's static in a drop. I would much rather have dropped spindles or dropped control arms with a 1" spring than have a 3" spring to net the same results.

The same applies for the rear. If you can use a flip, shackle, hanger or block in place of more spring drop then your results in ride and handling will be better.

No, I am not condoning a 5" lowering block, but I would rather have one or two less inches of drop from a spring if I can accomplish it with some form of static drop.
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Old 06-04-2006, 08:49 AM   #11
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Re: Rear Drop Qs:

That`s what I was thinking on the rear,too.One inch more spring + 1" block.I should still buy the shock relocates,I guess.I`d think that the -5" springs/1" blocks would tend to bottom less than-6" springs.More spring even though the axle to frame measurement`s the same.Make sense?
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Old 06-04-2006, 10:03 PM   #12
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Re: Rear Drop Qs:

Quote:
Originally Posted by special-K
That`s what I was thinking on the rear,too.One inch more spring + 1" block.I should still buy the shock relocates,I guess.I`d think that the -5" springs/1" blocks would tend to bottom less than-6" springs.More spring even though the axle to frame measurement`s the same.Make sense?
I don't know I have this theory that if you are building springs you have specs to work with (height, spring rate). ECE says that a stock height pickup should have 9" between the frame and the axle. OK I'm going to build a 6" dropped spring (like ECE) I know I need to leave 3" between the axle and frame. I want to build it to ride as good as I can (spring rate) and not bottom out. So I know I can build the spring to give about 2.75" and not bottom out. Alright now I am going to build a 5" drop spring and I know I can build this one a little softer because I know I have an extra inch for the spring to give. I've got a different spring rate and I built it to ride as good as possible for the height. This spring can give or travel about 3.75", cool right. I mean I think I am still making sense here, the closer to stock height I build my springs the softer the ride can be especialy considering how much room I have for it to travel. OK you buy my 5" drop spring that I built to have 3.75" of travel and then you add a 1" block, you are now 3" from the frame. Well this is going to be a problem pal and you are going to be having some interference problems. It may sound like I have done a lot of typing here for nothing but I have had this conversation with a buddy of mine more than once about his bottoming out truck. I don't really have any good pics but it is the yellow 66 in these shots. He is running a 4" drop spring in the rear along with a 1.5" block. He gets fighting mad when I tell him my 6" drop bottoms out every now and then when I really jerk it around and drive it hard. His truck bottoms out all the time and he has to drive like he's on eggshells. My theory may be way off but his springs were designed to have more travel and ride better. When he added that block he is suddenly cutting short the travel his spring was designed to have. So anyway, 5" spring + a 1" block is 6". A 6" spring is 6". As long as it works out how you want in the end it's all Cool and the Gang . I just wanted to let you know that a block combined with a spring didn't work out to great for my pal. Let us know what you end up going with. Oh and buy the way if you want to save a little on the shock relocation, haven't a lot of people swapped and flipped the shock brackets from one side to the other(left,right). I know this doesn't move them as much as the ECE kit but it will get you a little closer to some good angles.


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Old 06-04-2006, 11:38 PM   #13
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Re: Rear Drop Qs:

Don't forget about the Super track bar that you will need.
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Old 06-05-2006, 08:07 AM   #14
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Re: Rear Drop Qs:

Asa,don`t feel bad.I`ve had the same conversation with no one around.I think you are right,the lower the drop-spring the stiffer the ride,by the spring rate not the length.Not true with a compressed spring.Also,with the block/spring combo you lose clearance to the ground with the trailing arms.Not as big of an issue,but...I have to look at the shock mounting.I could prolly just fab something,change mounting points,or a different shock.Probably just buy the dang kit,though.I`m actually trying something new with the cheap thing.Not working too good,though.I hear guys trying to cut this corner,buy this cheap immitation,or gripe about how much some other thing costs and think,"What`s the point?Do it right or do nothing.It is what it is."I guess I can always make the truck "look" cheap.I have a hard time restraining myself.Maybe I should give up.Can someone lend me 800 bucks?
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