stock alt. gauge wiring ? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

THOR 50 · 08-11-2002, 08:07 PM

I have sucessfully converted to an internally regulated alternator but my stock guage still doesn't work, I see in diagrams the wiring behind the dash face (20 BRN) but can't seem to follow what happens to the wiring under the hood. any help

Longhorn Man · 08-11-2002, 08:17 PM

Have you checked the 2 little fuses in the engine compartment? They are on either side along by the fenders in little black rubber fuse holders.

THOR 50 · 08-11-2002, 08:20 PM

factory style in line fuses?

Longhorn Man · 08-11-2002, 08:26 PM

yup, all guage trucks have them. (At least when they were new they did)
Seems that is normally the problem.

THOR 50 · 08-11-2002, 08:31 PM

So if they're missing, would the charging system still work?

Longhorn Man · 08-11-2002, 08:38 PM

Yes, this is a foolproof idea that GM had back in the days. If your inst. panel were to catch fire or bow up, or if your neighbor wanted your factory tach more than you did, your truck would still charge. (although it would be pumping oil all over you though)

THOR 50 · 08-11-2002, 08:42 PM

Appreciate the info. Looking forward to your Caddy install! are you using any CMD parts?

67 SS · 08-11-2002, 08:46 PM

Did you connect the right wires at the old regulator?I 've done this a couple times to my trucks and you have to splice two of the wires together.Not sure which two colors,I can check if you want.It might be the one for the gauge.

THOR 50 · 08-11-2002, 08:53 PM

I used an adaptor kit from Kenny's it bridges the correct wires where the voltage regulator pluged in to the harness and adapted the plug on the alternator.

Longhorn Man · 08-11-2002, 08:57 PM

This is what he is talking about...and I don't think i would splice onless you want to remove all the tape on the harness and remove all the unneeded wires. If you unwrap it all, you'll see exactly what I'm talking about. It just seems kinda pointless to splics out in the open where it can get damaged easily when you can do this and have it repairable easier...maybe it's just me.
On the longhorn harness, i deleted this plug all together and removed about 8 foot of wire in doing so. And since it is the charge wire, removing it is a good thing. Otherwise, you'r just losing charge power through unneeded wire.
No, so far I have not purchased anything from CMD (now known as Cad Company) I hope I don't need anything from them, but eventually, i will probably end up crawling to them with a request. (Have you seen there prices??)
(Photo courtisy of RiceDevel)

THOR 50 · 08-11-2002, 09:10 PM

They are very high, but I don't know what else to do about an oil pan, pump or motor mounts. Since I'm not one to experiment on my own stuff

and it's hard to find Eldorados here in Dallas. I'm hoping you'll work out all the kinks before I get the money together to get started on my swap.
If you need some input from someone let me know.

Longhorn Man · 08-11-2002, 09:37 PM

Well that is where I lucked out. The 425 I have IS out of an Eldorado. So I have the right pan from the get go. As for motor mounts...I'm still kinda scared. at least the motor mount kit is a decent price (compaired to the rest of there stuf anyways) at 80 bucks. But since I have time on my side, I will try to fab stuff just to save that money.

Quote:

it's hard to find Eldorados here in Dallas

I thought all the Dallas millionares drove big red convertable Eldorados with huge steer horns on the hood...like big and little Enos Burdette on Smokey and the Bandit.

THOR 50 · 08-11-2002, 09:42 PM

That's the problem, they still drive them!!
At least there's an nice Eldebrock intake manifold for them!

How do I get a Anti-ricer membership?

Longhorn Man · 08-11-2002, 09:44 PM

Yup...$250! Which isn't all THAT bad I guess.

Zumo · 08-11-2002, 09:51 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by longhornmail
little black rubber fuse holders.

Where can I find these? One of mine is broke.

Longhorn Man · 08-11-2002, 10:39 PM

Unfortunatly, I don't know. I have always put a regular glas fuse and was not able to close it all the way. Kinda butch, but it got the guage working. I'm thinking of placing a spade fuse in on the longhorn's harness when it goes back in.

TERRYP · 08-12-2002, 12:46 AM

They are supposed to be 4 amp fuses, they have them at radio shack, I think. YOu could change them over to 2 spade type with parts from the auto parts stores.

Patrick Sullivan · 08-12-2002, 12:48 AM

They sell the fuses you need at most auto parts stores.. don't remember what the brand is called, but you'll know em when you see em, they're really short.

SWINGSAX68 · 08-12-2002, 10:41 AM

I got my fuses at O'reilly's. they are longer than the original, but they work the same, they are black plastic and they twist together with the fuse inside. My truck wouldn't start with out them.....but my gauge still doesn't work.

08-11-2002, 08:07 PM	#1
THOR 50 Over worked under paid Join Date: May 2001 Location: Fort Myers, Florida Posts: 378	stock alt. gauge wiring ? I have sucessfully converted to an internally regulated alternator but my stock guage still doesn't work, I see in diagrams the wiring behind the dash face (20 BRN) but can't seem to follow what happens to the wiring under the hood. any help Attached Images __________________ Roger '69 C-10 with GMC front clip billet grill, 283CI, 400TH and 12bolt posiw/3.73 gears

08-11-2002, 08:20 PM	#3
THOR 50 Over worked under paid Join Date: May 2001 Location: Fort Myers, Florida Posts: 378	factory style in line fuses? __________________ Roger '69 C-10 with GMC front clip billet grill, 283CI, 400TH and 12bolt posiw/3.73 gears

08-11-2002, 08:31 PM	#5
THOR 50 Over worked under paid Join Date: May 2001 Location: Fort Myers, Florida Posts: 378	So if they're missing, would the charging system still work? __________________ Roger '69 C-10 with GMC front clip billet grill, 283CI, 400TH and 12bolt posiw/3.73 gears

08-11-2002, 08:42 PM	#7
THOR 50 Over worked under paid Join Date: May 2001 Location: Fort Myers, Florida Posts: 378	THANKS! Appreciate the info. Looking forward to your Caddy install! are you using any CMD parts? __________________ Roger '69 C-10 with GMC front clip billet grill, 283CI, 400TH and 12bolt posiw/3.73 gears Last edited by THOR 50; 08-11-2002 at 08:44 PM.

08-11-2002, 08:53 PM	#9
THOR 50 Over worked under paid Join Date: May 2001 Location: Fort Myers, Florida Posts: 378	adaptor kit I used an adaptor kit from Kenny's it bridges the correct wires where the voltage regulator pluged in to the harness and adapted the plug on the alternator. __________________ Roger '69 C-10 with GMC front clip billet grill, 283CI, 400TH and 12bolt posiw/3.73 gears

08-11-2002, 08:17 PM	#2
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,690	Have you checked the 2 little fuses in the engine compartment? They are on either side along by the fenders in little black rubber fuse holders.

08-11-2002, 08:26 PM	#4
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,690	yup, all guage trucks have them. (At least when they were new they did) Seems that is normally the problem.

08-11-2002, 08:38 PM	#6
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,690	Yes, this is a foolproof idea that GM had back in the days. If your inst. panel were to catch fire or bow up, or if your neighbor wanted your factory tach more than you did, your truck would still charge. (although it would be pumping oil all over you though)

08-11-2002, 08:46 PM	#8
67 SS Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: NW ARKANSAS Posts: 258	Did you connect the right wires at the old regulator?I 've done this a couple times to my trucks and you have to splice two of the wires together.Not sure which two colors,I can check if you want.It might be the one for the gauge.

08-11-2002, 08:57 PM	#10
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,690	This is what he is talking about...and I don't think i would splice onless you want to remove all the tape on the harness and remove all the unneeded wires. If you unwrap it all, you'll see exactly what I'm talking about. It just seems kinda pointless to splics out in the open where it can get damaged easily when you can do this and have it repairable easier...maybe it's just me. On the longhorn harness, i deleted this plug all together and removed about 8 foot of wire in doing so. And since it is the charge wire, removing it is a good thing. Otherwise, you'r just losing charge power through unneeded wire. No, so far I have not purchased anything from CMD (now known as Cad Company) I hope I don't need anything from them, but eventually, i will probably end up crawling to them with a request. (Have you seen there prices??) (Photo courtisy of RiceDevel) Attached Images

08-11-2002, 09:10 PM	#11
THOR 50 Over worked under paid Join Date: May 2001 Location: Fort Myers, Florida Posts: 378	They are very high, but I don't know what else to do about an oil pan, pump or motor mounts. Since I'm not one to experiment on my own stuff and it's hard to find Eldorados here in Dallas. I'm hoping you'll work out all the kinks before I get the money together to get started on my swap. If you need some input from someone let me know. __________________ Roger '69 C-10 with GMC front clip billet grill, 283CI, 400TH and 12bolt posiw/3.73 gears

08-11-2002, 09:42 PM	#13
THOR 50 Over worked under paid Join Date: May 2001 Location: Fort Myers, Florida Posts: 378	Eldebrock intake That's the problem, they still drive them!! At least there's an nice Eldebrock intake manifold for them! How do I get a Anti-ricer membership? __________________ Roger '69 C-10 with GMC front clip billet grill, 283CI, 400TH and 12bolt posiw/3.73 gears Last edited by THOR 50; 08-11-2002 at 09:45 PM.

08-11-2002, 09:44 PM	#14
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,690	Yup...$250! Which isn't all THAT bad I guess.

08-11-2002, 10:39 PM	#16
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,690	Unfortunatly, I don't know. I have always put a regular glas fuse and was not able to close it all the way. Kinda butch, but it got the guage working. I'm thinking of placing a spade fuse in on the longhorn's harness when it goes back in.

08-12-2002, 12:46 AM	#17
TERRYP GYRO GEARLOOSE Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Nevada City, CAEverett, WA Posts: 361	They are supposed to be 4 amp fuses, they have them at radio shack, I think. YOu could change them over to 2 spade type with parts from the auto parts stores.



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08-12-2002, 12:48 AM	#18
Patrick Sullivan Transcendental Trucker Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Rockaway Beach, OR Posts: 374	They sell the fuses you need at most auto parts stores.. don't remember what the brand is called, but you'll know em when you see em, they're really short. __________________ Patrick Sullivan \| sullivan@oregoncoast.com Rockaway Beach, Oregon 1972 Chevy Cheyenne C-20 1998 Dodge Dakota 4x4 So, fill to me the parting glass And drink a health whate'er befalls... Then gently rise and softly call Goodnight and joy be to you all!

08-12-2002, 10:41 AM	#19
SWINGSAX68 Now the others dig........ Join Date: May 2002 Location: San Antonio, TX Posts: 1,520	.. I got my fuses at O'reilly's. they are longer than the original, but they work the same, they are black plastic and they twist together with the fuse inside. My truck wouldn't start with out them.....but my gauge still doesn't work. __________________ 68 Chevy C10 Stepside Black Primer 78 GMC Longbed White 09 Chevy Silverado Shortbed Granite Blue *LOOKING FOR A 67 4 DOOR IMPALA!!!Just like Sam and Dean Winchester!! 'Cause Mustangs are for p^#$ and you can fit a body in the trunk of a 67 Impala* MEMBER OF THE DRUM BRAKE CLUB Bachelor of Music in Jazz Studies Texas State University-San Marcos, TX Certified Music Educator I hope Mom is up there watching and being my Guardian Angel "I've got a fever.....and the only prescription.....IS MORE COW BELL" -The Legendary: Bruce Dickenson "F#$@ 'em up!!!!!!" -The Legendary: Rogelio Escobar TRUCKY LINKS** http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=457750 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=461184 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=472848 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=417541 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=477788

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