11-04-2006, 04:38 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Santa Fe,Texas
Posts: 933
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Boxing Frame
What is you guys thoughts on boxing the frame. I know on some of the older car that is a common practice. Dad and I were discussing doing that on his truck and I want some opinions on that. Thanks Bernie
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11-04-2006, 11:58 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: louisiana
Posts: 1,008
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Re: Boxing Frame
Im going to box mine from the cores upport crossmember to the rear most crossmember....
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11-05-2006, 02:39 AM | #3 |
Hollister Road Co.
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Houston
Posts: 6,131
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Re: Boxing Frame
The frame when new was more than enough for a big block, but after 50 years of flexing it needs some help. I would at least box the front end area and the section over the rear axle. One word of advice is do only 1- 2" welds spaced at 6" apart. Let it cool for several hours to hand touch. Then do 1-2" welds in between that and so on. You will warp the frame if you get to quick and run beads longer than 2". Its a real PIA to get it back again. Don't ask how I know that.
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11-05-2006, 08:49 AM | #4 | |
Yellow truck club
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Barrie Ontario
Posts: 2,080
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Re: Boxing Frame
Quote:
Brian..
__________________
................................................................ Brian ...... My hub garage address http://www.hubgarage.com/mygarage/59apache I gue$$ everything has it'$ price ALL GONE NOW 59 Chev Apache PRAISE THE LOWERED 350 700r lokar shifter power MII front end, shockwaves tilt, 4 wheel discs 4-link and bags 10 bolt limited |
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11-05-2006, 11:42 AM | #5 |
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: louisiana
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Re: Boxing Frame
I agree...with a sharpie mark 2 inch spaces seperated by 6 inches spaces...weld in the 2 inch spaces....then let it cool past hand touch. Remember that metal doesnt warp from being hot...it warps when cooling. So even if you feel your not getting it that hot, it may still warp. Then weld in the middle of the 6 inch gaps. Then weld in one of the 2 inch gaps. Then weld it and finish it. Something else is to after you weld your 2 inch spots, go and grind them smooth. That way you dont get much weld on top of another and if you grind the little pieces down, it wont be hard at the end to finish everything...
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11-05-2006, 12:03 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: apple valley, ca
Posts: 2,670
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Re: Boxing Frame
I boxed mine from the transition point of the Camaro clip to the rear bumper points with 3/16ths plate. Grind a bevel on the edge of the frame and also on your boxing plate to make a channel for the weld bead. This will ensure good penetration and also make dressing down the welds easier. Definately space the welds as everyone has mentioned, and come back and slowly fill the open spaces until it's fully welded. Use a grinder to knock down the heavy spots, and come back with a sander and put a nice radius on your welded edge. You'll be amazed at how much it strengthens the frame and helps ride quality and handling. Plus, it looks professional.
________ Ls650 Last edited by chevyrestoguy; 02-18-2011 at 10:55 AM. |
11-05-2006, 05:12 PM | #7 |
Hollister Road Co.
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Houston
Posts: 6,131
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Re: Boxing Frame
I split my rails from the crossmembers and welded on the plates. I did one rail in about an hour and then the other again in an hour. Came out to start on the crossmembers the next day and they had both bent inward 6 inches across the entire length and twisted about 2 inches front to back.
I had to place welds on the out sides of the rails in specific spots to walk it back into shape and remove the twist. The place in the cross members and grind off the welds. That whole process took about 40 hrs and I still need to put it on a frame rack to get it exact. Last edited by dwcsr; 11-05-2006 at 05:13 PM. |
11-09-2006, 02:12 PM | #8 |
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Deep River, Ct
Posts: 135
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Re: Boxing Frame
I boxed my '57 from front to back and replaced the stock crossmembers with 2" X4" braced tubing, notched over the axle and added some 2" X 2" diagonal bracing. Believe me, it's stiff!! Unless I have my four jack stands exactly the right height it will tetter totter on opposite corners. I used 3/16" for everything. My old '66 was so flexible I vowed to never have that again. You can still see the temporary bracing I added front and rear to keep things straight. It's square and level within 1/16". Do it!
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11-09-2006, 10:14 PM | #9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: louisiana
Posts: 1,008
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Re: Boxing Frame
thats what Im doing with mine. I hope to hit sides and everything with my truck bagged, and thats hell on a braced frame....
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11-19-2006, 02:01 AM | #10 |
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Huntsville Alabama
Posts: 48
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Re: Boxing Frame
Mine is boxed front to rear. If nothing else it looks cool.
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11-20-2006, 01:53 PM | #11 |
polishing a turd
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: houston, tx
Posts: 674
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Re: Boxing Frame
does anybody know of a place that sells pre cut boxing plates?
mine would be for a '59 3/4 ton (longbed) |
11-20-2006, 02:08 PM | #12 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Wendell/Archer Lodge, NC
Posts: 5
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Re: Boxing Frame
Try the guys at Progressive Automotive.
http://www.progressiveautomotive.com/Boxing.htm |
11-20-2006, 08:50 PM | #13 |
Hollister Road Co.
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Houston
Posts: 6,131
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Re: Boxing Frame
I got mine from them. They fit pretty good
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11-21-2006, 11:16 AM | #14 |
polishing a turd
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: houston, tx
Posts: 674
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Re: Boxing Frame
hopefully there won't be problems as mine is a 3/4 ton longbed. i'll give them a call
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