12-02-2006, 08:10 PM | #1 |
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Reaming valve guides
My truck could use at least new valve guides. Since this is my winter (salt) truck, I'd like to fix this on the cheap. I'd also like to learn something. I've been reading some books about rebuilding SB and they all mention reaming the valve guides and installing valves with oversized stems. Any of you ever done this? I can't seem to find any info here or on the 'net. What I need to know is just what size valves to buy and what size reamer (and where to get it all). I want a 3/8 inch dia. guide, right? And then valves with 5/16 dia stems?
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12-03-2006, 08:53 AM | #2 |
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Re: Reaming valve guides
A cheap thing you can do is to install umbrella seals over the valve stems, under the springs. This keeps most of the oil from going down the guides. I've did this and it does work. It's not the right way, but it will help for a while.....Other wise, just find a better set of heads. You'd have to take them off anyway to reem the guides.
steve
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12-03-2006, 09:01 AM | #3 |
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Re: Reaming valve guides
take them to a machine shop. I personally wouldnt attempt such a task at home. unless you have a mill and all the other high buck equipment required.
he will probably recommend new guides if your stems are ok. |
12-03-2006, 11:53 AM | #4 |
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Re: Reaming valve guides
A lot of the redos would include new seals and a knurling of the valve guides to make up for the space fropm wear, however if you are going to pull the heads to do the work, then have a local machine shop fix you up with a valve job.
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12-03-2006, 12:03 PM | #5 |
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Re: Reaming valve guides
Bottom line is that if you don't have the tools and experience you'll spend far more trying to do this at home than handing it off to a good shop...and when you're done you still have iron guides. Good reamer sets have a guide that fits into a 60 degree valve seat to ensure the guide is concentric with the seat...and they sell for about $200.
This is one of those things where if you're only building 1 or 2 engines it's just not worth the investment. Doesn't mean you can't do it at home, but you need to invest in the right tools and the time to learn the skills. Last edited by Billla; 12-03-2006 at 12:06 PM. |
12-03-2006, 12:14 PM | #6 |
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Re: Reaming valve guides
just remember you get what you pay for. the knurling will eventually go away/wear down and put you back at square one. been there done that. see if you can find a good set of heads, if the motors not a hot rod motor then find a good set of cheap new/rebuilt heads and put them on , that way the heads last a long time and your not wasting money.
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12-03-2006, 02:55 PM | #7 |
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Re: Reaming valve guides
Newly rebuilt stock heads are for sale in the Little Nickel (free classifieds available in convenience stores around the country) ads for $155! I have seen performance heads with only 10,000 miles on them for sale on craigslist for $75 obo! If you are going cheap...check craigslist, free ads or the junk yard. Just my 0.02.
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12-03-2006, 06:04 PM | #8 |
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Re: Reaming valve guides
Thanks for the help, all. The way Chilton's was talking about doing this, it seemed like you just needed a $20 reamer. I knew that was too easy. Thanks for setting me straight.
I must not know where to look for rebuilt heads on the cheap, stllookn. I don't think we have the Little Nickel out here. The closest thing I've found on Craig's list was a rusted out 350 in need of a rebuild. But I'll keep looking.
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12-03-2006, 06:29 PM | #9 |
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Re: Reaming valve guides
Add to this the cost of over sized valves, not common. Unless you are a Bulk rebulder they are as much, or more than stock valves.
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12-03-2006, 08:10 PM | #10 |
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Re: Reaming valve guides
Guess I should 'fess up: I thought that I could ream and replace only those guides/valves that were worn. Guess ya can't do that.
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