Air Bag Shopping List

[IvelDesigns]

i have a 69 lwb that i will be baggin this winter/spring. it was a 3/4 truck, but the PO converted it to 1/2 and put disk brakes up front. I have no clue what year/model was used, so i'm concerned that i might get the wrong spindle.

Anyways, here's my list:

4 Slam Specialties bags - http://*****************/SlamSpecialt...SinglePort.php
Front Plates - http://*****************/67-87Fullsiz...rtBrackets.php
Rear Plates (Do I need these if my coil mounts are good?) - http://*****************/RearUpperBag...SinglePort.php
100' of Air Line (rather have to much than not enough) - http://*****************/100ftof38DOT...cedAirLine.php
4 Gauges - still looking - gonna get something to match whatever i pick for my gauge cluster i'm workin on.
ECC Drop Member - $199
ECC Shock Relo kit with shocks - $199
Panhard Bar - http://*****************/PanhardBarKit.php
C-Notch - From another member
CPP 2.5 inch drop spindles - http://www.classicperform.com/Store/...ruck/CP4S1.htm
CPP Front and Rear Sway Bar Kit - http://www.classicperform.com/Store/...ck/6372SBK.htm
CPP Front Sway Bar Brackets - http://www.classicperform.com/Store/...ck/6372LSB.htm

For the air line fittings, I was planning to order everything from SuicideDoors. For each bag, i think i will need the following, starting from the bag and getting into the cab (http://*****************/Fittings.php):
Forged 90 Degree Elbow Male
Female Connector
line
Male Elbow
Bulkhead - mounted to cab floor/firewall (not sure where yet)
line
Union Tee
line A goes to gauge
line B goes to input valve

I have no clue what i need for valves. I assumed i would have something just like a tire valve where i can add air, or press in the needle to let air out. I didn't see anything like that at suicidedoors though.



So that about wraps up my suspension project. See anything i'm missing or something i should rethink??

[st1x10]

If you've got coils in the back you don't need the back brackets. Check this out http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=129463.

Also on the gauges, why 4? I think you could run 2 dual needle gauges from ***************** and be ok.

[Rollie396]

you'll prolly need some smaller airline (1/4" or 1/8")to run to the back of the gauges as well.

[IvelDesigns]

Originally Posted by st1x10

If you've got coils in the back you don't need the back brackets. Check this out http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=129463.

Also on the gauges, why 4? I think you could run 2 dual needle gauges from ***************** and be ok.

thanks for the link. My truck is 2 hours away from me, and i could remember how the springs were setup under there. Now i see why these trucks get so low with bags.

do i need to worry about the axle bottoming out on a 2.5 inch notch? i haven't seen the kit yet, but i think there is a bump stop in there. if there is, i'll probably cut it down some to let it sit lower when aired out.

and the reason for 4 gauges is that they will be mounted in my gauge cluster (i'm making one out of a glove box door) and i want them to all match. The style i'm going for does not have a dual needle air gauge.

btw, laying frame is not a goal of mine, but i wouldn't say no

[IvelDesigns]

Originally Posted by Rollie396

you'll prolly need some smaller airline (1/4" or 1/8")to run to the back of the gauges as well.

i was wondering about that. I'll make sure to order a small roll or go to my local freight liner dealer/shop.

btw, for fittings and what not, do you think i would get good deals at the freight liner place?

[action]

I haven't got my bags yet but as best as I can figure you will need 2" blocks for the rear end to get close to touching the notch. I could be wrong but I will know soon enough.
Jack

[st1x10]

The cpp c notch does have a bump stop on it. But to hit it you have to have a 1 1/2" or 2" block I am pretty sure.

[Rollie396]

this is only what I've seen in my build...
I built my own 2.5" notch out of 6" pipe and boxed the frame in that area.
With the firestones mounted in the springs place the axle is only at most an 1/8" from the top of the notch when the bags are aired out.

[jimmydean]

the Slams only air out to 2.5" with the bump stops inside. So it won't go quite as low as others, but it will go low.

[IvelDesigns]

so should i go with firestones to get a little lower when aired out (only gonna happen at shows and when i'm bored)

I was under the impression that i should spend the extra $5 for the slams cause they had a better travel distance.


oh, and while on the topic of bags, i assume they have some sort of mechanism in them that prevents damage from over extending them, and when airing them completely out. is that the case?

[jimmydean]

Slams have an internal bump stop that helps to prevent damage when aired out. Even so, you wouldn't want to drive like that.

The only thing that keeps bags from over extending is a gauge you mount in the cab and your ability to pay attention to it.

I like the slams because they don't seem to ballon (and I got a good deal on them).

[IvelDesigns]

Originally Posted by jimmydean

Slams have an internal bump stop that helps to prevent damage when aired out. Even so, you wouldn't want to drive like that.

The only thing that keeps bags from over extending is a gauge you mount in the cab and your ability to pay attention to it.

I like the slams because they don't seem to ballon (and I got a good deal on them).

right, and that should be easy enough to do since my fillers will be right next to my gauges. But what about when you jack up the truck. Lets say i needed to jack it up by the frame for whatever reason, what do i do then?

[jimmydean]

Some people have talked about using a strap like 4x4 limiting staps, but I haven't had to do anything with mine yet. You can use a ratchet strap in a pinch, my truck has 4 or more under the seat at all times anyway.

[IvelDesigns]

ok, so that answers my question. if i ever need to jack up the frame and let the rearend hang, i need to do something to keep the rearend close to the frame.

thanks!


btw, anyone have an answer to my valve question?

"I have no clue what i need for valves. I assumed i would have something just like a tire valve where i can add air, or press in the needle to let air out. I didn't see anything like that at suicidedoors though."

[jimmydean]

Shane posted a link for "tank fill valves" you can get them at NAPA. Just a metal valve like you see in aluminum wheels. There might be something fancier available, but that will at least let you fill your bags.

For safty and handling sake, if you aren't using control valves, then run a line for each bag. You don't want to share air between bags because the shift in weight will increase body roll and makes for scarry times.

Just my $.02

[IvelDesigns]

cool. i wondered if it would be as simple as going to napa for those.

yeah, the plan is to run a line and gauge for each bag. I was gonna put the gauges in my gauge cluster, and the fillers under the dash to the left of the steering wheel, but now i'm think putting all of this in the glove box might not be a bad idea.

however, i think i'd feel better being able to see the air pressure at all times though.

[IvelDesigns]

two more questions:

what length slam spec bag do i want for the rears? 7"?

and what length panhard bar do i need?

[IvelDesigns]

is there a cheaper way/place to get fittings? the way i have it priced out on suicidedoors, it's gonna cost me about $120 to get all of the fittings i need. enough to get lines for all 4 bags into the cab.

[jimmydean]

Depends on what fittings you want and need. I got my swivel 90's for each bag and my male straight connections from "koolcads" on ebay. It was only $8 for priority shipping and they are all brass. I saved about $30 after it was all said and done. I got the fittings in 2 days.