solid lifter cam experts please

[pkj]

i want to get a thread going on the solid lifter cams. i am building a old school engine. max rpm will be 6000. i know that there are plenty of hyd. cams that will get the job done. it seems the solid lifter cam will benifit the engine from idle to 6000 rpm. 400 (406)sb, estimated 9.5 to 1 CR, camel back heads will try some home porting and gasket matching, RPM Performer intake, 750 dp holly, 1 5/8 long tube hookers, 4 speed m-20, electric fans, NO a/c or p/s, 3.73 or 4.10 final gear. cold air dual snorkel (almost ram air) this is not a dd, or street racer. just old fashion bang the gears fun truck. i am using all old school go fast parts. what will the good and bad of using a solid lifter cam? thanks pkj

[jhow66]

No advantage to using a solid lifter cam for what you are going to do with it. Advantage of a solid is higher rpm use.

[cooters]

the benifit of a solid cam is that you and your truck will get intimate under the hood a lot more often than a hyd cam. I believe the choices of cams are way better in hyd for your application.

[kenm78]

[Captkaos]

A solid isn't going to benefit the engine from idle to 6000rpms. All of them have their range at typically 3000- 6500 on the low side. This is for a small solid lifter cam.

If you are looking for power from idle to 5000, chose your typical towing cam in hydraulic form which makes power from 1400-4600. If you are looking for power from 2000 to 6000 go one step up..

I would match your components to each other and get a good power combo instead of picking popular parts with catchy names.
Example, a single plane would go better with a solid lifter for better breathing at high rpms, and with a solid you would need a minimum of about 10.5:1 compression (eliminating 89 octane)......

[ratrod67]

Solids have a higher RPM as stated above and have a WAY better sound. Especially with compression ratio 10.5 and above. I run solids in all my hot rods. I run my lash twice a year. Not really a pain to me.

[pkj]

seems the solid lifter is going to let engine rev faster. the 400 by nature is already strong on the torque side. pick-up truck is light in the rear so i see no need for more bottom end power. not worried about adjusting lash, thats more fun then waxing or mowing the grass. want to shift by 6000 rpm not because engine cant pull anymore, but conserve on that bottom end. thanks pkj

[larry may]

Ratrod67 you rock dude, hang in there PKJ YOU ARE HOLDING YOUR OWN.....With solids your are in control . Hydralics go bad gotta tear the engine apart........Solids usually do not fail.....

[JDL]

Use the solids some were around 500 to 525 lift and you should have a blast.
If you us a stud girdle then valve lash should not be a problem.

[Stroker]

Originally Posted by pkj

it seems the solid lifter cam will benifit the engine from idle to 6000 rpm. thanks pkj

Well I'm not an expert but I'll throw in my .02 worth. I'm going to assume you've got that impression by using an engine simulation program such as DeskTop Dyno? First I'll say that you could very well get across the board gains as indicated by programs such as desktop dyno but only if you use the aggressive solid lifter cam profiles that are typically used for race applications. There are some of the short track solids that could work for your larger small block. Comp has cams in the 230-240 duration @
.050 lift with 106 LCAs that would work with your compression, gearing and 4 speed tranny. When looking at the cam recommendations remember you're building a 400cid motor and most of their recommendations are based on a 350 unless they specify otherwise. The extra cubes will lower the peak torque and HP RPMs by 200 to 500 RPM.

The upside is a mean sounding lope at idle and very strong midrange torque when you use one of these short track cams on the street.

The downside is the aggressive profiles might not live to long on a street engine. Your valvetrain components and geometery have to right, the more aggressive the ramps the less margine of error you are allowed. When you use these types of cams you will be able to really feel the engine comes up on the cam but the engine will be somewhat peaky. A lot of fun if you like putting the pedal to the floor, but not ideal for a cruiser or for MPG.

If your trucks basicly a toy I say why not. If its you primary means of transportation I wouldn't recomend this type of cam.

[jhow66]

I run a solid in this one:--355cid--11:1 ratio--462 iron heads --hi-rise single plane--roller rockers. Comp Cam--272 duration @ .050-.580 lift on both valves-106* centerline--Holley 750DP-4 hole idle--headers with 3" dual pipe with crossover--Flowmasters--NOS cheater system-- B&M 400T-holeshot convertor--5.38 posi in chevy 12 bolt with Ford axles ends with Moser axles.
(Broken axle is Ford)

[Billla]

I already weighed in on this one offline

[cooters]

with all the problems cam manufacturers are having with flat tappet cams right now, if you are using a cam over .500 i would run a roller. There have been so many wiped out lopes in the last 2 years the companies were forced to post warnings to use oil additives. Besides rollers make more power anyway

[pkj]

WOW! some pretty strong opinions, but thats what i expected, thanks.
ratrod67-you are right. i think the sound of solids is better music then the big lopey idle everyone likes. both togather is even better, but i dont think i will be running that big of a cam.
cooters- as far as getting intimate under the hood, i have built my own style of radiator cover. it holds tools and BEER.
JDL-if needed i will run a stud girdle, but only going to spin to 6000 max rpm. do you really think its needed.
stroker-you nailed it on the head. the truck is a toy, and i want it to be one bad toy.
jhow66- that one pic was more impressive than a dyno sheet. nice job on the axle. thats what a good engine is ment to do.
larrymay-you have been my main insperation behind this whole truck and hot rodding it. YOU ARE THE ONE THAT ROCKS.
billa-i thank you for all the experience and wealth of knowledge you have shared with me and everyone else. i am starting to think i may as well go ahead and bump the CR up. have 2 or 3 ideas i would like to run by you.
hope to hear more on solid cam opinions. pkj

[pkj]

after reading all the replys and doing a little searching i am feeling good about going with solid lifter cam. but i think i should bump the CR up to around 10.5:1. i will most likely have to put some additives in the pump gas, thats okay. i am not sure on how to raise CR without spending a lot of money. as i see it i have 2 choices. take the old heavy TRW 24cc dish pistons i have and cut them to a flat top with valve reliefs and change over to 5.7 rods. or just buy some new pistons and leave the stock length rods. i dont know if i really need the longer rods for what i am going to do. will still use 64 cc heads. i will have to buy all bearings and rings. so what is best way to get CR up? could really use some help here. thanks. pkj

[Captkaos]

IMHO, You only have two ways to raise compression.
smaller combustion chamber or larger piston dome. I would go the head route in aluminum (allows more compression without needing SUPER grade fue)l. and I would verify you pistons will give you what you want before commiting to them.

BTW, I am not against solid lift cams, I am running one in my 454 and have spun it to 7800 on several times. I am just saying to maximize your power, you need to change a few things.

The next came I get will be a roller though.

[pkj]

the aluminum heads just wont be in the budget now. not sure it would be good to go any smaller then the 64cc heads? i dont know, i am open to all advice.

[larry may]

Providing you are going to run the dished pistons. Go for more lobe seperation say 114. Will give more cylinder pressure this will raise the compreesion ratio some . Crane has a cam I read about. My less favorite of all the manufactures of cams. Anyway pn 113814 HAS 114L/S , or 114681 has 112 L/S. its all good.both of these are solids