rear axle seals......

[lux hauler]

What do I have to do to replace them? I suppose I should change the bearings while I'm in there...?

Thanks

[lux hauler]

bump

[da-burb]

first off, get yourself a GM service manual. It is without a doubt the best tool you can buy.
secondly, this is a quick run down, I may leave something out so see rule one^
jack up rear of truck, put on jack stands.
pull tire and drum.
remove the 12 bolts that hold your pumpkin on the rear end, drain lube.
remove pinion shaft lock bolt, remove the pinion shaft.
push the axle in, towards the rearend, remove the C clip.
Now you can pull the axle out.
now you have access to the seal.
pull seal, inspect the bearing for pitting, inspect the axle shaft for excessive wear.

re-assemble in the reverse order. It is usually simpler than it sounds. Unless somebody snapped off the pinion shaft lock bolt like they did on one of my trucks.

[lux hauler]

Thanks da-burb!!!
I have a service manual but these directions are easier for my simple mind to understand

[Jeff M.]

I assume its a 1/2 ton your working on.

1. Jack it up and support it safely.
2. Pull off the tires and wheels.
3. Remove the brake drums.
4. Pop the cover of the rear of the rear end.
5. Take the bolt out of the lock pin slide out the pin and remove
the c-clips from the axles. Pull the axles out.
6. If your just going to replace the seals, pry the old seals out.
Find a suitable driver and install the new seals.
If your going to replace the bearings, I find it easiest to use
a long bar and go through the housing and pop the bearings
out from the opposite side. Don't worry about removing
the seals as the bearings will take them out. Very easy to
do this way.
7. I usually use the old bearing race to tap the new bearings
into the housing then use a big 3/4 drive socket to seat
the bearings into the housing.
8. Reassemble. Should take about 2 quarts of gear oil.

Be careful with the seals as they bend easily. Lube the lip of the seal before you put in the axles. Check the axles for wear and if there is a groove where the bearing rides check for axle saver bearing kits. A little pricey, but cheeper than new axles.
If you haven't done this before make a mental note on how far the bearings and seal fit into the housing.

Hope this helps and good luck.

[lux hauler]

Thanks Jeff!!! I'm getting ready to go out and tear into it.

[Longhorn Man]

Think about new C-clips...that little piece of metal is all that holds you wheel on.

[lux hauler]

Are the c-clips a dealer item?
I went today and got everything (seals, bearings, gear oil, posi additive and black rtv) but they didn't have the c-clips.
Is there anything else I should replace while I have it tore down?

[Fred T]

Check the surface the seal mates with. It is probably grooved. If so, get a redi-sleeve, a thin stainless steel tube that slides over the shaft and gives your seal a smooth surface to seal against. Also, check your differential vent, it sticks out the top of the housing. On my 52 it's on the driver's side. Remove and clean it. If the vent's plugged, you will blow out your new seals the first time the gear lube gets warm.

[Sheenanny]

Is that what I need to replace too? When I push and pull on my back wheels with it jacked up they move in and out a little bit. This is acompanied by a clicking sound.

[lux hauler]

I hope a little side to side movement in the axle is normal 'cause mine does it too.