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12-18-2007, 10:37 AM | #1 |
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Location: Central Wisconsin
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Trailing arm lowering block
I have a 69 stepside----trailing arm rear can I use rear lowering blocks on this?----It just doesnt seem like they would work----if so where can I get a set and how big can I go?---3in 4in?----confused here.
OR is it easier and safer to just go with lowering springs? Thanx |
12-18-2007, 10:39 AM | #2 |
its all about the +6 inches
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Location: Hilliard Ohio
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Re: Trailing arm lowering block
moving to the 67-72 truck page
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12-18-2007, 10:58 AM | #3 |
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Re: Trailing arm lowering block
NP---thank you for the up.
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12-18-2007, 11:37 AM | #4 |
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Location: TN
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Re: Trailing arm lowering block
My buddy and I are working on lowereing blocks for these. I would not recommend more than about three inches. Pm me with what you need. I may be able to help. They are very easy to do and much cheaper than springs.
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12-18-2007, 12:01 PM | #5 |
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Re: Trailing arm lowering block
Yes you can use lowering blocks on your truck. You will need the blocks and longer U bolts.
I would strongly not recommend anything over 2 inches. |
12-18-2007, 02:55 PM | #6 |
just can't cover up my redneck
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Columbus OH
Posts: 11,414
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Re: Trailing arm lowering block
For safety's sake, don't use a block that would let any part of the suspension hang below the edge of the wheel. This allows a solid metal suspension part to drag the ground in the event of a flat tire. Steering and braking both suffer. So, maximum block size is somewhat determined by wheel diameter....with-in reason. You start to get a leverage issue, much like lift blocks on 4x4s, when you get too thick...I wouldn't go more than 2"
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12-18-2007, 05:06 PM | #7 |
BlahBlahBlah
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Wa.
Posts: 20,046
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Re: Trailing arm lowering block
First off I agree totally with what LONGHAIR said. I do find it amusing though whenever this subject comes up, (and it does come up fairly often) everyone posts how dangerous it can be to let anything get below the scrubline. But no one says jack when a truck is posted where the whole thing can drag on the ground, they just go off on how great it is.
Last edited by CG; 12-18-2007 at 05:07 PM. |
12-18-2007, 05:14 PM | #8 |
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Re: Trailing arm lowering block
Excellent points well taken---THANK YOU-I will be running a 285 170 15 radial I think this should clear any problems---
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12-18-2007, 07:34 PM | #9 |
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Location: fort macleod alberta
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Re: Trailing arm lowering block
i ran a 2.5: inch block for about 2 years with out any huge problems but i did take into account the things these guys are telling you about the safety
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12-18-2007, 10:17 PM | #10 |
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Re: Trailing arm lowering block
Yes you can and I do. I have 2' blocks in the back. They are also easy to make if you have the time.
esll... I'm running 295 R50X15 in the rear. I used to run 305's but BFG/TA does not make these anymore. No problems with tire rubbing.
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Tomorrow is for doing today's stuff. ************************************* This truck has just the right amount of energy for me! Author: Warren Lake .... (member) |
12-19-2007, 03:59 AM | #11 |
Watch out for your cornhole !
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Re: Trailing arm lowering block
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12-19-2007, 06:44 AM | #12 |
It's a catastrophic success.
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Re: Trailing arm lowering block
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12-19-2007, 08:53 AM | #13 |
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Re: Trailing arm lowering block
Nice I just book marked that page!
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12-09-2012, 02:40 PM | #14 |
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Location: Central Oklahoma
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Re: Trailing arm lowering block
With a 2'' lowering block, would shims be needed to maintain proper pinion angle?
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12-09-2012, 07:31 PM | #15 |
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Location: Chattanooga TN
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Re: Trailing arm lowering block
Shound still be ok. .. but 1-2deg would take care of it if needed. I usually run 1 deg per inch of drop. IF you have a two piece driveshaft it might be a little less of an issue. (less jumprope / harmonic vibe vs. the longer one piece. ) Just my experience..
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