1950 GMC Project...

[tylordurben]

Sup everyone,

this is a 50 GMC that sat in a barn for some 30 years, has og paint and well everything else too. my client picked it up from NC last weekend to have me build it for him. at first he wanted me to build a Chevy truck (the Old Navy ones) but when he bought it, its missing everything! so he picked this up now.

phase 1 is suspension. he wants airbags so that the running boards touch the floor (or as close as possible given the supports underneath them), so a Mustang II front end is going to replace the front leaf set-up. Most of the kit is already here, tubular a-arms and rack and pinion steering with dropped spindles and disc brakes. the rear will be a simple mono-leaf with lowering blocks and a C-notch.

phase 2 will be a motor, everyones favorite SBC with 350 trans.

so enough bable here are some pics... but first if anyone has good links or info on doing this job please post them here for me to reference them, thanks!

pics:









Yaril

[tylordurben]

so, i began work on the truck. got the rad removed and the front end sheet metal pulled off in 1 piece, gotta love that. cleaned off some thick gunk off the chassis so that tomorrow i can drop that front suspension.

[tylordurben]

the front suspension is out completely, even ground off the shock mounts (i hate factory rivets). also got the rear end out and left 3 leaf springs (wishful thinking, will most likely end up on 1), lastly the motor is sitting waiting for the picking, all is disconnected and loose ready for plucking.

some pics:

chassis is nice once the motor is gone ill take it down to bare metal







i think i convinced him to run gloss black wheels instead of the flashy red ones



Yaril

[tylordurben]

built the gauge pod. its actually leftover sheet metal from when i cut off the roof on my squareback to install the sliding rag top. after the mock up this was pretty straight forward...

heres the metal i used with the template transfered ready to cut:



drilled the gauge hole with a 2" hole cutter and cut the sheet metal with my 4" grinder, clamped it over some angle iron and flat stock and bent it / hammered it into shape:



tried my best to not burn the paint on the other side of the radio delete plate but with the mig i couldnt control it as i wanted, got a couple paint burns on the other side. here you see the hinge welded on, only had to grind down the lip on the delete plate to make things work:




almost final product, i just painted the pod gloss black and i also drilled on the bottom center for the on/off compressor toggle switch which is also black.




the front and rear switches will go on the two blank buttons, i am ordering (too much work to make for a client) green Lucite knobs that i will slip over the 2 toggle switches. best thing is that you can close the delete plate and delete the "modern" stuff.

hope yall likes it. i did this today cause i am waiting on a cherry picker to continue with the mustang II front end install.

Yaril

[pgf545]

Here's one to check out. It is a 51 that he bagged dragging the boards. Really cool truck!!!

Bernie

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=218090

[Smokejohnson]

Wow she's in good shape

[tylordurben]

thank you Bernie, i just looked through his thread. i have been following yours too for a while. the chassis came out beautiful. good job.

the trucks in really good shape. only passenger front floor / meets fender area is rusty. do they sell replacement panels or will i have to make them?

i am trying to get the running boards to lay on the floor. the mustang II front end with dropped spindles welded in as meant to be, will that be low enough? or should i channel it into the chassis a little bit?

question... what size tires are people running on these trucks when rolling 15" steelies and airbags?

thanks!

[Kid]

I like your idea of hiding the air bags gage behind the radio delete cover. I used a little diff approch to get my 51 GMC lowered, but would be happy to answer any questions If I can. I "C" notched the rear frame rails for axle clearance, with the goal to have the running boards on the ground, but my rear tires size (29" tall) keeps the rear from dropping the last 1.5". The tires touch the top of the fender. Lesson learned, If you want the taller tires, youll need to raze the fenders. The link on my sig. has some build pics, but I gotta appolgize for not doing a better job of documenting the process.

[49S10]

Great location for the gauge! That would be a good idea for hiding the AC control panel also. I put my AC control behind the ash tray door but I like your idea better as it is easier to see. Keep the ideas flowing.

[tylordurben]

thanks for the tips kid! ill look through your threads now.

so 27" tall tires for the rear, thats what i was thinking.

[tylordurben]

thanks 49s10, i personally hate modern stuff in old cars so i do my best to hide everything, even if it requires much more work.

not relative car but check out the dash on my 51 Buick... i got airbags and a/c with all the original gauges working.

hope im not breaking any rules with this picture:



thanks for the feedback guys!

[tylordurben]

hey kid, what rear end is that you are running?

so a simple pipe notch is sufficient to get it all the way down? that means the bed floor doesnt need to move up! hope thats true. i bought a complete notch kit but can save it for another project.

thanks!

[tylordurben]

kid your truck is GORGEOUS!!!! ive never been into trucks, never but that thing is just amazing looking. great job on it! definitely looking forward to getting some feedback from you!

cant tell from the typing but im excited. going to go out now and pull that straight 6, trans and remove the bed.

[LONGHAIR]

A little inspiration.........

[72BlckButy]

Wow... great build thread! Definitely keep us posted!

[CAL 58 GMC]

Looks like a good solid truck to start with! I like what you did with the fab work on the gauge pod, looks cool!

[GRIMSS]

Nice project. Planning on painting or keeping it the way it is?

I want to see some pics of your squareback click my link below that says "NOBACK" for some of my chopped up squareback.

[tylordurben]

thank you Longhair!

72BlckButy, trust me i will be updating this thread everyday i work on the truck, as today... see below.

thank you CAL 58 GMC, trucks nice and solid! i love coming up with tricks to hide things and run things certain ways, thats the fun parts of the build for me.

GRIMSS, plan is to do up the suspension and drive train, but leave the body with the original paint. hope this doesnt ban me but i posted 1 pic of my squareback. your noback looks like a fun car to cruise in.

the squareback:





now for an update...

was waiting for my friend, but he took too long so i went ahead and pulled the motor out myself. then i had him cut all the bolts that hold the bed in place (they were too rusty). so then we got the bed off. removed all the brake lines and cleaned some gunk of the chassis. oh, almost forgot also put the front leaf spring shackles on the rear leaf springs they are about 1" shorter and its FREE.

some pics...







some questions...

can i remove the brace on the rear chassis that looks like is there to hold the spare tire?

can i see some pics of rear airbag setups? i see that most people here are laying running boards with only "pipe" notches into the chassis and stock bed floors, so obviously the bags will need to be in front or behind the axles.

thanks!
Yaril

[Kid]

Yaril, I didn't mean to mis lead you, I did have to raise the bed floor up 3" to clear the rear end, I should have mentioned that too, sorry. The rear end I used is a chrysler 8 3/4" out of a Duster, stock width, with 20 X 10 American Racing wheels with 6.5" rear spacing, tires are Goodyear 295X50X20. I wanted to avoid the "deep dish" look from the side in a effort to keep a some what stock appearing look.
Your square back is awsome! I love wagons.

[tylordurben]

thats cool, i shall too raise the bed floor. thanks for the rear end info and wheel tire set-up. your truck is spot on!

got some more questions...

1. best way to remove factory rivets on the chassis!? i hate those things.

2. see the pic below, ive read about a cabin brace that should be retained or redesigned when running a V-8 / 350 trans. i believe it was mentioned to be the one that supports the original bell housing, so what are you all doing there? and will the floors of the cabin need to be modified for the 350 trans hump?



thanks again,
Yaril

[SURFER1316]

this is a far shot, but Is that an old caddy ute/flower car under the bed?? thats pretty badass man

[Kid]

I agree, those rivets suck, I've found what works best for me was to grind about 2/3 of rivet head away, then drill center of rivet till just beyond the frame stack up thickness with 5/16" bit, then using a 1/4" punch & BFH, swing away. My air hammer (rivet gun) wouldn't budge em. It also helps to back up the frame next to the rivet but.

[1-ton of fun]

i just grind them flush and pound away with a hammer and punch

[pgf545]

Yaril, The way I did the rivets was to take a 4" grinder with a cuttoff wheel and cut the top of the rivet head off. Then take my handy dandy air chisel using the punch attachment and drive them out...worked like a charm. I did have a couple that needed to be drilled out but almost all of them came right out.

Bernie

[tylordurben]

thanks guys, i think the BAFH is coming out. i tried my air chisel with the punch and had no luck, ill drill the ones that are giving me a hard time.

thanks guys.