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#1 |
1970 Daily Driver
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Glenns Ferry IDAHO
Posts: 1,038
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Hood Help
My hood has a bad heat warp so I found another hood in better shape. My question for you guys is, What grit of sand paper is best to use to take it down to bare metal? Also, I want to take the bottom of the hood down to metal but it has the factory undercoating still on it, is there a method or product that helps cut through this stuff? Thanks for the help.
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It's not truly yours if you didn't build it yourself or if you don't do your own maintenance. |
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#2 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: May 2008
Location: Granbury, TEXAS
Posts: 250
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Re: Hood Help
Use an aggressive sand paper to take the paint off then switch to about a 400 grit to smooth the metal prior to primer. The best way I found to remove the undercoating is with a putty knive and a small propane torch.
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#3 |
1970 Daily Driver
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Glenns Ferry IDAHO
Posts: 1,038
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Re: Hood Help
Is 80 grit too aggressive? I just don’t want to go too low, at the same time I don’t want to waste time with too high of a sand paper grit.
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It's not truly yours if you didn't build it yourself or if you don't do your own maintenance. |
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#4 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: May 2008
Location: Granbury, TEXAS
Posts: 250
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Re: Hood Help
Just be careful and go slow. I have used 32 grit with an air DA sander. Get the paint off without scratching the metal. That's why you switch to 400 grit to smooth the metal. Metal scratches will show through the paint.
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Mine is chopped, has a clutch, and a big block. |
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#5 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Chesapeake Beach, MD
Posts: 812
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Re: Hood Help
80grit should be fine. but as stated switch to a finer grit to smoot it out. for removing the undercoating your best bet would be a small propane torch and a scraper
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71 cheyenne lwb 300rwhp best 1/4 time so far 12.8 @103 ![]() http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z...en58/001-2.jpg |
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#6 |
1970 Daily Driver
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Glenns Ferry IDAHO
Posts: 1,038
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Re: Hood Help
Thanks Guys. I have always wanted a small propane torch just never had a need. I guess my ditch burning unit might be a little too much for this project.
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It's not truly yours if you didn't build it yourself or if you don't do your own maintenance. |
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#7 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Chesapeake Beach, MD
Posts: 812
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Re: Hood Help
yeah that should work fine for the flat surfaces, but for the corners i would use a block
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71 cheyenne lwb 300rwhp best 1/4 time so far 12.8 @103 ![]() http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z...en58/001-2.jpg |
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#8 |
1970 Daily Driver
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Glenns Ferry IDAHO
Posts: 1,038
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Re: Hood Help
Do I need to buy a block or can I make one out of a 2X4? If I can make one what dimensions should I cut the wood to? Thanks again guys.
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It's not truly yours if you didn't build it yourself or if you don't do your own maintenance. |
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#9 |
Saving 1 truck at a time!
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Kent, WA
Posts: 6,465
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Re: Hood Help
I have found that a heat gun and putty knife works much better than the torch for the undercoat...fewer fires and burns...LOL!
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'68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 400/TH400 '68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 468/TH400w/buckets '72 C20 Halfhorn (Longhorn w/o cab and front clip) '69 Flxible Cruiser (look up ugly in the dictionary) |
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#10 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 615
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Re: Hood Help
If your previous hood had heat warp the last thing I would want to do is use a propane torch to remove the undercoating. I would use chemical stripper and a putty knive or the heat gun.
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#11 |
Chevy nut
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Springfield, Illinois
Posts: 2,266
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Re: Hood Help
I have been using 80 grit flapper disc to remove paint and rust. Been working really good.
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84 Chevy Custom Deluxe 1/2 Ton Named Fade To Black II "Remember kids there is NO replacement for displacement!" |
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#12 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Gales Creek, Oregon
Posts: 619
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Re: Hood Help
Paint thinner will take off the undercoating. Its not as fast but it wont damage anything either. Undercoat is petroleum based so any chemical thinner or stripper will take it off just makes a mess while your doing it. Myself I wouldn't but heat anywhere near a hood. As far as making a block harbor freight sells an air powered long board for under 30 bucks. (I hate harbor freight tools but for this tool I would use one) If your not a body man you wont use it much so I wouldn't spend the money on a better one. The one from harbor freight would work fine for a few uses at least. (might work forever)
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There are two kinds of people, those who finish what they start and so on. 70 GMC Longhorn (A.K.A Money Bucket) 57 Chev 3100 05 Chevy LLY Dmax. 67 Chevy Camaro Dad's Budget Build 55 My Longhorn Build |
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#13 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Estherville, Iowa
Posts: 3,371
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Re: Hood Help
Kerosene or diesel fuel works great to remove undercoat (if you can afford it !!!)
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1968 C10 307 3spd Long Fleet ------ http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=201103 1970 C10 305 Super T10 Long Fleet --- http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=202285 1971 C20 383 TH350 Dana Posi ----- http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=206894 2001 GMC Sierra 1500 C3 6.0 |
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