Need Help Like ASAP

[theoneandonly]

Ok heres the deal I drove my 67 270 miles yesterday and it only hic up was when I got to my home town it started stuttering a lil bit. Today I replace the stater( had a mini starter that was wrong and was grinding), replaced battery (red top optima) had alternator tested (good), installed twin ele fans, and when I test drove it arond town it died. Comming to a stop light it stuttered and died, cranked and cranked and didnt turn over for an hour or so, got it going and kept it floored to the local auto parts store (where the alternator was tested) couldnt figure out the problem and bam it cranked right up and idled great. Drove it a mile maybe and stuttered and died, checked fuel filter, regulator, nothing seemed wrong, let it sit and about an hour it cranked. Made it home maybe another two miles and the radiator hose was HOT like I just ran it down the strip. Wife says while I was deployed it would die and not crank when it warmed up. What am I dealing with here? Clogged radiator shouldnt be it I have a reciept where the radiator was rodded not too long ago. Twin fans should keep it cool but not helping. Stuck thermostat maybe? I need help guys.

[caminokid]

Do you have an HEI in it?? If it does...sound like the module is going out.

[68gmsee]

You say it only does it when it's warm? Usually a radiator will not cause the engine to die unless it gets so hot that it gets vapor lock or worse engine damage.

As soon as it dies on you, check the ignition since it's the easiest. Take a cable off the distributor and have someone crank. Slowly move it to the distributor and see if you're getting spark to the plugs. If you are, then remove the air breather and see if you are getting a squirt of fuel when you depress the pedal.

Also, check to see if you're getting black smoke out of the exhause when it's running. Could be flooding.

My guess is something wrong in the carb. Either rich or no fuel...

[theoneandonly]

It does have an HEI and whats the module your refering to? Also no black smoke out of the pipes white smoke a lil bit on drivers side when cranked.

[IvelDesigns]

i'm curious what people say about this. I'm having similar issues with mine.

for the past week i've noticed that after running for a bit, if i turn it off, then restart it, it cranks really slow. this morning it actually would not start after driving 4 blocks and turning it off. i had to get a jump. i had only put the cables on for 10 seconds before i tried and it popped off like nothing was wrong.

i also have had the truck die when going down the road. probably happened 10 times in the last 3000 miles. i don't think it's related because this cranking issue just started.

sorry if this is a thread hyjack. just sounds like you're having similar issues to me.

[theoneandonly]

excatly thank god its not just me but I really am curious what it is.

[67 cst swb]

Are any of you using any % of ethanol fuels? They vapor lock easy when warm on non-computer controlled vehicles.

[theoneandonly]

yea I think like 10% but thats everywhere nowdays

[dieselarmy13]

The module is a four (i believe) pronged flat thingy undernieth your rotor. I've had a few go bad on me before, but everytime they go south on me, it's all at once, not a prolonged situation. They are about $15 for a repalcement or $40 for a good Accel one. A whole cap/rotor/wires tune up wouldn't be a bad idea if they are old. Same with your coil. Check the power going into your coil, as well.

[theoneandonly]

When they went out on you did your truck act like mine?

[jorgensensc]

I had an hei dizzy go out on me that sounded very similar to your problem of randomly not starting. mine would do it either hot or cold, but mostly hot. As for the slow cranking, that sounds more like a starter issue.
Shawn

[dieselarmy13]

Originally Posted by theoneandonly

When they went out on you did your truck act like mine?

No, it just wouldn't fire. It still cranked fine, it just wouldn't fire.

[theoneandonly]

starter is new and turns over the engine fine when the engine wants to crank

[chipflyer]

I would say its the module, I had the same issue with mine and a new one solved it. Very common problem with an older HEI. The GM HEI's are very dependable but many that we use have been in service a long, long time. Remove the cap and you will see it.
Pic of HEI module

[theoneandonly]

Hope thats it I just ordered the hei upgrade kit from summit with all new stuff for the dizzy. I am going to change the thermostat tomorrow anyways just to be safe and new plugs once the kit gets here.

[Shyguy]

Don't forget the new plugs will need to be gapped at .045" because of the HEI.

Make sure that both connections on the battery are good and that the ground wire has a good connection where it grounds to the engine.

I had to replace both cables because of internal corrosion.

Danny

[knsmodels]

are you guys running headers??? this problem sounds more like a starter problem to me.......the selanoid or wires going to it are getting hot and the starter is not functioning properly do to insufficient power from the battery to start when hot.....as far as the lack of power and running rough if it it getting fuel I would say perhaps the magnetic pickup on the HEI.....if you have an extra HEI dizzy laying around throw it in and see if the problem goes away......

[Ilike 72"s]

theoneandonly--- I would bet money your problem is advanced timing. TRY this if it wont start again.------If you have a vacume advance distributor, take the cap off and you,ll see a flat arm that rotates the plate the points are screwed to. try to rotate it with your fingers or a screwdriver. sometimes they stick part way and its to far advanced to start. Work it back and forth and end with turning it counter clockwise as far as it wil go, then start it. This could be why all the sudden one time it ran fine, it poped back on it's own. If you have a Cintrifical advance---you'll find it either stuck or you will be missing a spring that pulls it back into place at idle. Let me know if this helps. DENNIS

[2wd73blazer]

Mine did something sort of the same. It started out that when it was warm it would skip or sputter a little. Over a month or two it progressed into shutting down on me going down the road. It drove me crazy. I bought a new distributor and gave it a full tune up thinking it was in the ignition. It didnt fix it. I took it to a garage and they said my idler circuit was clogged and my carb needed rebuilding. That didnt fix it. I took it to another garage and they also said my carb needed rebuilding. That didnt fix it. I bought a new carb and i put a fuel gauge on the inlet. When it was running the fuel pressure would go from 0-6. There was my problem, the fuel pump. It has run like a champ ever since. Dont know if that helps but good luck.

[Ilike 72"s]

IvelDesigns-- My guess your problem is the starter is bad. When it warms up it pulls to many AMPs due to dirt in the windings - worn brushes or bad bearings or all of this. Your battery wire goes here first--then to the key. If it grounds out in the starter, your rig dies. Good luck. DENNIS

[Bugsy_malonn]

Check allllll your grounds it might be as easy as that. I had it happen to me once sounded just like your problem.

[70LonghornCST]

The possible header/exhaust heat problem resembled what I had happen to me with my Plymouth. I used cheap spark plug wires, plus they were a little too close to the heat source (headers), and it started to run really
rough. The longer I ran it, the more I had to keep it floored to keep it running. Luckily, I did not need to restart it when I shut it off and It did not die on me. But the heat factor can affect the ignition system if your wires are not high temp. I also had a car that would vapor
lock, and it is similar symptoms in nature too. Also due to heat, but affecting the fuel delivery as opposed to the spark. Both scenarios will require time for the engine to cool off before you can get it started.

[69heavychevy]

sounds like the module, take it off and take it to an auto parts store. most will test it for you.

[IvelDesigns]

for me, i don't think it's the dizzy because it's a cranking issue. with the example i gave from this morning, it would barely turn over after only running for about 4 blocks.

I'm leaning toward what "ILike 72's" said. It seems like the starter is going bad since it cranks hard when warm. I'll check the wires tomorrow, then look at getting a new starter.

oh, and i do have headers. shorty headers to be exact. and they are really close to the starter.

[70LonghornCST]

IvelDesigns, your situation does sound like the starter. My last post was actually directed towards the OP. Even with factory manifolds, our starters are naturally subjected to too much heat. Headers compound the issue. When you change your starter, you may want to look into either fiberglass wrap for the headers near the starter area, an aftermarket starter heat shield, or even one of those silver aluminum/fiberglass heat covers for the starter. They are easy to put on, having only velcro tabs. Don't want to jepordize your new starter.