Solenoid Valve Question?

[dznucks]

I am trying to build a bagged system for my '69 on a budget and want to find the least expensive components. does any one know who has more reasonable prices?

what kind of Solenoid valves are ya'll using?

Ie. 4-way, 2 position or 4-way 3 position.
Normally open, Normally Closed?

I am looking at some Ingersoll 12 volts solenoid valves that are far cheaper than ART or CPP' stuff. Has anyone used ingersoll valves?

[Shane]

cheaper usually means inferior when it comes to solenoid valves. stick with a name brand like Parker or SMC ... the additional cost should be minimal versus the headaches experienced with cheap import made valves.

you can purchase 3/8" SMC valves for approx. $30-$35 each.

You should be looking at normally closed / energized open ... unsure about the 4-way 2 or 3 position though ...

good luck & keep us up to date on your project.

[avysittinon22s]

Sorry but you have to be a subscriber to sell anything on the board. Please reread the rule of this forum.
Thanks
oldiron
forum staff

[RunninLo]

I have always had good luck with GC extreems. Always. The valves you're describing 4 wayetc. sounds like a spool valve. They're very finiky with ANY debris or condensation, oxidation in the lines. They are very maintainance intensive, prone to leakes and sticking. The up side is their compact size and you can lift and dump from the same valve. Unless install space is at a premium you're much better off with a normally closed diaphragm valve. ALL valves need to be kept clean and lubricated with a good air tool oil but the diaphragm type is much simpler unit with only one seal as opposed to the spool type which can have as many as 5 o-rings per valve.
Also don't be afraid to invest in quality parts. If you're looking to lay frame you don't want a valve failure doing 65 down the interstate.
Josh

[dznucks]

i am not looking to go that low, i like the 4/6 stance i have now with static drop. Really looking to get better towing capabilities and a better ride. the static drop "lays frame" in the back with about 600lbs. of weight.
Thanks for the comments that exactly what i needed to hear runninlo.

[wicked_sky_gazer]

Originally Posted by dznucks

I am trying to build a bagged system for my '69 on a budget and want to find the least expensive components. does any one know who has more reasonable prices?

what kind of Solenoid valves are ya'll using?

Ie. 4-way, 2 position or 4-way 3 position.
Normally open, Normally Closed?

I am looking at some Ingersoll 12 volts solenoid valves that are far cheaper than ART or CPP' stuff. Has anyone used ingersoll valves?

I am using integrisol/ aro valves (pn A312SD-012-D) its a 12v solenoid valve, they are $137 at grainger supply, i chose them because thier work load abilities, and that they are easily rebuildable if ever needed, i have used them before on other projects and had good luck with them.

[joe231]

Originally Posted by wicked_sky_gazer

I am using integrisol/ aro valves (pn A312SD-012-D) its a 12v solenoid valve, they are $137 at grainger supply, i chose them because thier work load abilities, and that they are easily rebuildable if ever needed, i have used them before on other projects and had good luck with them.

can you explain the way these work? is there one inlet and 4 outlets? how many do you have in your bag system? Thanks

[wicked_sky_gazer]

Originally Posted by joe231

can you explain the way these work? is there one inlet and 4 outlets? how many do you have in your bag system? Thanks

I'm running one valve for each bag. I am having a control board custom programed but you can run one valve with one 3-position switch, (2-on, 1-off) <lower cost with switches> also if you go this rout make sure you get the sylonoid/spring combo not the sylonoid/sylonoid, also make sure that the center position is all closed not all open, or you will have one heck of a nightmare.

port 1 = in from tank
port 2 = out to bag
port 3 = pluged
port 4 = exhaust from bag
port 5 = open or pluged

On ports 2 and 4 I'm using one way velocity check valves to control the rise and fall speed of each bag. It all seems a little over kill but I want complete individual controll of each bag from one another for tuning.

Disclaimer- you have to maintain a system presure of at least 50psi or the valves WILL NOT SCHUTTLE, and that can be a shared 50 psi across the board. The more psi the faster the valve responce. For this reason my system will be capable of 200psi, and probably maintain around 140-150psi. If however your system presure is going to be closer to 50psi I would recomend spending the extra $15 or so and get the low-pressure kit for the valves so that you dont get stuck with no motion, they are easy to instal. All you do to instal the low-presure kit is remove the plug between the two sylinoids and thread the insert in then pipe a second air line from your tank into the valve. I'll try and get a schematic of my air plumbing drawn up in the next couple days for you. GL!

[joe231]

cool, that is very imformative and helpful

[RunninLo]

the ones gazer posted are the air pilot spool valve. They work great in certain applications but are very prone to debris in the air system and work best with filtered and oiled air. They are easily rebuildable and that's great cause any debris in in them tears up o-rings like a mofo and leaks develope. Sturdy enough chunk of debris can gouge the bore that the spool slides in and it is permanently fubared. I only use these in cases where I need a small package like an import car where the valves can be inside away from the elements. I also install a hell of a filter and an oiler and recommend a yearly rebuild to the customer as a preventive measure. For a truck/ full size where space is not as much of an issue or where the valve will be exposed I can't recommend a simple daphragm valve in a lift/ dump pair enough.

Josh
ps $117 each for a finicky valve or (2) SMC's from KP for $59.98/pr. I fail to see the value based on my expirience over 10+ years installing airride and a simple cost/benefit anlysis.

[csbatey]

Sorry but you have to be a subscriber to sell anything on the board. Please reread the rule of this forum.
Thanks
oldiron
forum staff

[Shane]

go pay your subscription fee and then we'll talk business ...

[wicked_sky_gazer]

I'm sorry I guess I don't Understand who was trying to sell anything. If it is me everyone is talking to, I appologize, I was simply trying to provide the info that I had in fullest to dznucks and joe231. I guess I don't understand who was trying to talk more "business" then that.

[joe231]

Originally Posted by wicked_sky_gazer

I'm sorry I guess I don't Understand who was trying to sell anything. If it is me everyone is talking to, I appologize, I was simply trying to provide the info that I had in fullest to dznucks and joe231. I guess I don't understand who was trying to talk more "business" then that.

seems that csbatey and avysittinon22s were discussing buying and selling, their posts have been edited, don't think you did anything wrong Tony
thanks again for the info
Joe

[wicked_sky_gazer]

Originally Posted by joe231

seems that csbatey and avysittinon22s were discussing buying and selling, their posts have been edited, don't think you did anything wrong Tony
thanks again for the info
Joe

Ok thanks, I missed that part I guess I was out of town for that time and just saw the corrections, thanks Joe

[joe231]

Not a problem Tony, glad I could help

check out this saleLINKY

these are good valves, correct? any one running them? How do you like 'em?
seems like a good price, under $30 a piece

[wicked_sky_gazer]

Originally Posted by joe231

Not a problem Tony, glad I could help

check out this saleLINKY

these are good valves, correct? any one running them? How do you like 'em?
seems like a good price, under $30 a piece

I'm not sure but I think those may be the ones that RunninLo was talking about. I'm pretty new to the air ride thing, so I don't know one way or another on quality or reliability of a lot of the valves on the market for 'air ride' purposes. But I'm using the Aro valves because of space (where I want them installed) is limited. Also I have seen those valves (the Aros) work in some pretty harsh enviroments and not develop leaks or failures of any kind, not to say this isn't possible, however with my experience working with them in shops and with heavy equipment I have developed enough faith in them. Also the way I am setting things up there wont be much ability for "dirty air" to make it into the system, with the exception of debris generated from inside my system.

[RunninLo]

Originally Posted by joe231

Not a problem Tony, glad I could help

check out this saleLINKY

these are good valves, correct? any one running them? How do you like 'em?
seems like a good price, under $30 a piece

That is a pretty SWEET deal. I normally don't go through SD but @ that price I may have to stock up for my lincoln and my dually. That's $27.50 each with no shipping charges. I usually go GC xtreems but again DAMN that's a steal.
Josh

[RunninLo]

Originally Posted by wicked_sky_gazer

I'm not sure but I think those may be the ones that RunninLo was talking about. I'm pretty new to the air ride thing, so I don't know one way or another on quality or reliability of a lot of the valves on the market for 'air ride' purposes. But I'm using the Aro valves because of space (where I want them installed) is limited. Also I have seen those valves (the Aros) work in some pretty harsh enviroments and not develop leaks or failures of any kind, not to say this isn't possible, however with my experience working with them in shops and with heavy equipment I have developed enough faith in them. Also the way I am setting things up there wont be much ability for "dirty air" to make it into the system, with the exception of debris generated from inside my system.

If you take your time and maintain them they'll do you just fine. I have an Eclipse that I put on air close to ten years ago and I've swapped out the cans @ the wheels but it's still running the same ARO valves all this time. the infamous Grainger #2G449. That being said they have been carefully installed in the truck of the car and rebuilt (cleaned& new o-rings) yearly.
I once removed air from a civic using the exact same valves ( someone elses install under the rear bumper cover) and he blew them out about every 6 months and got fed up.

Good luck with your install gazer. It sounds like you have a sound industrial background and a good plan. It should go very smoothly for you. Biggest issues as far as dirty air I've seen seem to come from surface rust generated by condensation in the tank. Good filters on your supply lines fronm tank to the spool valves should help a ton.

Josh
PS soory for two post I'm not trying to PW just couldn't get multi-quote to work.