Oil Pan Gasket

[Tim64]

Hey Guys,
I'm going to put a new gasket on my oil pan. Leaking a little, and I want to get it done before bad weather. It's a 250 ci. My question is will I be able to remove the pan without lifting the motor?
Thanks,
Tim

[jchav62]

I've done it before with a small block, not sure if it's possible with a 6. I would guess yes.

[Tim64]

I think it's the same pan as the small block.

[Fred T]

On any 250 that I have done I had to pull the bolt thru the motor mounts and jack the front of the engine for the pan to clear the crankshaft. Put a block of wood under the balancer and jack there.

[Tim64]

Well, my shop manual says if it's a 292 you have to jack it up, but not the 250/230s. I hope that's right, but I have to do it no matter what. I'll let you know how it goes. I'm betting you'll be right Fred. That's just my luck.

[Fred T]

My factory manual for 67-72 says:

Remove starter.
Remove front engine mount bolts (frame bracket to mount).
Jack with a flat piece of wood (under the pan) enough to place 2x4's between the mounts and frame brackets.
Drain oil & remove pan.

So I would be ready to jack the engine. Even with that, it should be a 1/2 day job providing you don't run out of cuss words before you finish.

[Tim64]

My manual is for a '63 which my truck is. I wonder if the frames are that much different that it would work. I also saw a post on here once where a guy said, if I remember right to have the timming mark at 6:00 and the crank would be in the right place to get the pan out. I don't about that, or if I even remember it right.

[Fred T]

If you can't get the pan out, you can jack. If you have a jack and some small pieces of 2x4 laying around just in case.

I was thinking last night. Are you replacing the rear main seal whilt the pan is off?

[Tim64]

I hadn't thought about it. Is it a big deal?

[Fred T]

In an engine that old the rear main is probably leaking. Most of the time that is why they have to pull the oil pan.

It's not that hard to replace on the newer six. Remove the rear main bearing cap, 4 1/2" bolts. The seal is two piece rubber. Your manual should have the instructions. Use a punch to get the upper half moving and pull on the end. Be careful not to ding the crankshaft. Also be careful about the bearing surface on the crank, you don't want to leave any sweaty fingerprints on it. Use a clean oiled rag to wipe the crankshaft surface and the bearing surface when you put it back together. Apply a little rtv to the seal ends before replacing the bearing cap. Follow the book instructions, the last one I did was over 20 years back and I probably forgot something.

Another seal the leaks is on the front of the crank, but it's not near so easy. You have to remove the balancer, and to do that you have to pull the radiator.

[Tim64]

Thanks for all the help Fred, I'll let you know how it turns out.

[Tim64]

Well, got the job done. Had to lift motor, but it was no big deal. Added some new motor mounts while I was at it. Thanks for all the help!

[Fred T]

One drip fixed. Don't worry, you'll have more!