Is it worth $6000?

[Lobo'74]

Yeah, I know I posted this earlier. Any inputs on worth? Does $6000 sound about right? I've been told engine alone is worth about $3000, but I also know it all depends on what someone is willing to pay.

I'm just trying to get a good idea on this and there are very, very few locals here who hot rod, so not much of a knowledge base to tap.

I've had it 5 years and 6000 miles since I bought it newly rebuilt.

In general:

• New paint when rebuilt. Fair job. Looks great from 10 feet. Up close has a few runs. Waxes up nice.
• New two piece drive shaft installed when rebuild took place.
• When rebuilt the front end was rebuilt and torsion bars added front and rear. Brakes were rebuilt front and rear.
• Has new steel 8 spoke wheels painted white, and new tires, 33 inchers. All from the rebuild.
• All vent window and door window rubber and guides, channels, etc replaced summer 2003.
• Door interiors coated with POR-15 and all internal parts refurbished summer 2003.
• New dashpad installed fall 2003.
• New V8 – 4 core extreme duty radiator (w/ transmission cooling lines) installed October 2003
• New radiator shroud installed October 2003
• New *“Juliano’s Hot Rods” 3-point retractable (auto locking) seat belts installed fall of 2003
• New old stock Sanyo FT 1495 AM/FM/Casette radio from the 1970’s installed fall of 2003. Fits in
original radio space, dash was not cut.
• New SunPro gages installed fall of 2004. Volts, Water Temp, Oil Pressure, Boost/Vacuum
• Previously Installed power steering box was replaced with a newly rebuilt ’85 variable ratio chevy truck
power steering box.
• Installed a used 1989 chevy truck windshield washer reservoir/pump assy. Wired to original
washer/wiper switch.
• Saginaw close ratio 4 speed is a rebuilt unit from M/R Racing in Waldo, WI. Spring 2008
• New Hurst 4 speed shifter. Same shifter as in a '67 Camaro, just brand new. Spring 2008
• New clutch. CenterForce II. Went in with the Saginaw close ratio 4 speed and the Hurst shifter. Spring 2008

Description of 350 engine in 1967 Chevy truck

350 Chevy V8, 4-bolt mains, with the following mods:
Machining work done by Terry Walters precision engines, Roanoke, VA.
• Bored .030 over = 355 cubic inch
• Align bored
• Parallel top of block
• New cam bearings
• New freeze plugs
• New hypereutectic pistons, flat top
• Reconditioned connecting rods
• Crankshaft main and rod journals ground .010 under
• Rotating assembly balanced
• Double roller timing chain
• Melling high volume, high pressure oil pump (M55-HV oil pump I think)
• Speed Pro cam: Intake 224 deg dur, .450” lift; Exhaust 224 deg dur, .460” lift (Same as LT1 cam)
• New hydraulic lifters and push rods
• Sportsman II cylinder heads with 72cc chambers (9.5 to 1 compression). World Industries part #012250-1
• Stainless steel valves 2.02 intake, 1.6 exhaust
• Heavy-duty valve springs, screw-in studs, guide plates
• Crane part #11744-16 roller rocker arms (Rollers on both fulcrum and tip)
• Edelbrock* # 1470 750 CFM 4-barrel carburetor
• Edelbrock performer RPM aluminum intake manifold
• HEI distributor (Late-70’s style)
• Dyna-max Headers

Note: For correct tune-up parts, such as spark plugs, cap, rotor, coil, plug
wires, use parts made for a 1979 Chevy C10 pickup 350 Cu in. engine. This
also applies to accessories such as the alternator, water pump, thermostat,
radiator, clutch disk, pressure plate, throwout bearing, and transmission.
The power steering pump and gearbox are from a 1985 Chevy truck.

Board member did desktop dynamo run on the specs. Came out to 377 HP 409 ft lbs torque @ 5000 rpm.


Current Condition

Engine/Drivetrain:

• Engine located in stock Inline 6 location - back apx 3” from stock V8 location.
• Red line RPM unknown. Previous owner (builder) said 6000 rpm.
With rotating mass balanced, heavy duty valve springs, and double roller
rocker arms I suspect 6000 is a good red line limit, but I use a 5500
red line. I will however verify that it pulls very strongly right up to 6000 rpm. (On two occasions)
I chicken out before the engine even begins to.


• Power steering pump mounted using 1st header bolt. Need proper bracket (Old Air’s?)
http://www.oldairproducts.com/shop/index.php


Body

• Batt Acid or fumes ate the stock battery box, the radiator support assy. ledge
under the batt, and the passenger side inner fender, as well as the bottom
edge of the passenger outer fender.

• Cab
- Both toe kicks (pass. & driver) rusted through. previous owner repaired with fiberglass.
- Edges of the floor, outer edge, repaired with fiberglass by prev. owner at the floor to rocker joint.
- Cab corners rusted. Passenger side rusted out - p.o. repaired with bondo. Driver side starting to rust through.
- Floor supports rusted through. Passenger side rear completely gone, all others in bad shape.
- Driver side door latch one screw area rusted through on door edge.
- Both doors rusted inside. I repaired with POR-15 inside.
- Seats (unknown source) need better attach frame. Juliano’s Hot Rod under floor mount points.
http://www.julianos.com/anchor_plate.html
- Dash has two rusted through areas on top of dash, outboard sides, about 1" diameter.