yet one more question about Z'ed frames

[jmedero]

When I do my Z must I tunnel the trany? What about my 2 piece drive shaft? My truck is a LWB and still trying to figure out if I will cut it down to a SWB or go LWB. Just a picture of what I am working with.

[Spray-Bomb]

If you are talking about a front Z, then it depends on how much of a Z you do
If you have X inches between your trans & the bottom of your cab & you Z that X or more then you are gonna have to cut your floor

A 2 piece drive shaft will mean you dont have to do as tall a tunnel, as the drive shaft doesnt move up & down between the trans & the carrier bearing

[FnLow69]

most likely you will have to raise it....

[mr48chev]

Ok, are you going to Z it on just one end or both ends?
Or you just going to shorten the frame to be able to use a short box? In this case I think we need more info to be able to make viable suggestions.
If you are just going to over lap the frame rails when you shorten them all you will need to do is shorten the drive shaft, emergency brake cable and brake line.

[Spray-Bomb]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

all you will need to do is shorten the drive shaft, emergency brake cable and brake line.

Fuel line & wires too

For the wires you can just loop them & zip tie them

[jmedero]

I am going to cut the frame 12' behind the cab. it is a 3 speed but that will be changed to a th350 most likley. What do you mean lap the frame? I plan on cutting it in a L shape kind of cut then weld them together with plates. Is that what you mean?

[mycool72]

If you are going to take 12 out from behind the cab are you going to run a four link? Most ppl cut in front of the crossmember to retain the factory two link....if you are going to take length outta the back, you might as well z the back

[jmedero]

i really have not messured back there yet. The bed is still on and I am working my way back. Got some body work on the front, doors, rockers.... well all over. I plan on doing the frame and susp in Jan and Feb. What is the norm? Before the xmember or after? Is the factory 2 link ok for bag set ups?

[Spray-Bomb]

Most people cut the frame under the cab between the trailing arm X-member & the front X-member, then relocate the rear cab mounts back into the correct location

And yes, the 2 link is just fine for bags

[mycool72]

X2

[leftcoast66]

Originally Posted by Spray-Bomb

Most people cut the frame under the cab between the trailing arm X-member & the front X-member, then relocate the rear cab mounts back into the correct location

And yes, the 2 link is just fine for bags

Its gonna be a pain though to get it to lay out w/ anything short of a full custom back half w/ the stock trailing arms though. But yes I agree their all good to use if you plan on that.

[XXL]

Originally Posted by Spray-Bomb

Fuel line & wires too

Unless he's moved it, fuel is behind the seat.

[Spray-Bomb]

Originally Posted by leftcoast66

Its gonna be a pain though to get it to lay out w/ anything short of a full custom back half w/ the stock trailing arms though. But yes I agree their all good to use if you plan on that.

I disagree

You can Z one & lay out just fine

[jmedero]

well the plan is to Z @3 then drop spind... I have a front clip from a 82 that I will do ctl arms and brakes from. On the back not sure what to do yet, I guess I will have to figure that out huh...

[leftcoast66]

Originally Posted by Spray-Bomb

I disagree

You can Z one & lay out just fine

Interesting. Never seen it done w/ success. Learn something new everyday.

[badblu97]

my 82 is Zed 3" and drop spindles, obviously did not get the drop member(wish I could have), and I am aware that the susp in the rear is different, but a parallel 4 link from KP and over the axle bags and its draggin frame...

[Twisted Minis]

I Z'd a truck, and modified the crossmember to drop the motor back down. You have to run stock manifolds or ram horns in order to clear the frame though. Most headers don't fit when the frame gets raised around the motor.

[scotts62]

What about the block hugger headers?

[Twisted Minis]

I guess it would depend on the brand. I tried some Hooker block huggers, and it didn't work. That's all I had on hand though. The only thing I found that was tight enough to the block was cast style manifolds. You can get brand new Ram Horns in steel or stainless for under $300 I think, and I actually like the way they look even.

[scotts62]

Ya you would almost have to have them when you do the Z and adjust the frame for it if possible. I was just curious though.