72 Prerunner

[thirdstreettito]

Well, I've decided to go prerunner, so with that in mind. Who makes kits for it? Or anything for it. Do I have to go to a 4x4 shop or a spring shop? I want to lift it 4-6" (cinder block length high).

[drbyrdman]

2 or 4wd

[sandking]

I doubt anyone would make a specific "Prerunner" kit for these trucks, but you can make a kit work with some fab skills. Do you have a 2wd or 4wd? What do you plan to do with the truck? Or are you going for the "Prerunner" look?

[thirdstreettito]

2WD, its in my sig.

I want the prerunner lift (not too high) so it sits higher than stock but is still 2wd and still has a nice ride quality. Can I just get bigger springs and be done with it?

[sandking]

Depending on $$, I would go for some + A-Arms up front with coilovers. The rear, just add a set of deavers and some smooth body shocks. This would make a dependable, yet fairly inexpensive smooth riding truck.

[Jtrux]

Originally Posted by thirdstreettito

2WD, its in my sig.

I want the prerunner lift (not too high) so it sits higher than stock but is still 2wd and still has a nice ride quality. Can I just get bigger springs and be done with it?

You probably couldn't go more than 2 inches in the front or rear without further mods. Fabbing something is definitly the way to go but unless your doing it yourself it's gonna cost you.

Sandking is a badass fabricator, i'd find out where he lives and start bringing him lunches. He could probably tell you exactly what to do and how to do it, maybe even show you a few things.

Sorry sandking, i'm not trying to whore you out, it's just that you're really good at this and I thought i'd give some credit where credit is due.

[Jtrux]

Originally Posted by sandking

Depending on $$, I would go for some + A-Arms up front with coilovers. The rear, just add a set of deavers and some smooth body shocks. This would make a dependable, yet fairly inexpensive smooth riding truck.

This depends on if he has leaves or coils in the rear. I have a 69 lwb 2wd that has leaves but from what I here it's kinda an oddball.

Other than that you're right about the front, that's probably his best bet.

[sandking]

^^^ Thanks!! I will take a compliment anyday.

[sandking]

Originally Posted by Jtrux

This depends on if he has leaves or coils in the rear. I have a 69 lwb 2wd that has leaves but from what I here it's kinda an oddball.

Other than that you're right about the front, that's probably his best bet.

Your right. In that case, you have half of the long travel done for you with the links. Just beef up the arms and the mounts, add coilovers to the arms and viola.

[thirdstreettito]

What are + A-Arms? Would a 90 AMP Flux Wire Welder do what I need?

[sandking]

.............I will brb, need to eat.....

[Jtrux]

Originally Posted by thirdstreettito

What are + A-Arms? Would a 90 AMP Flux Wire Welder do what I need?

Yeah...it would but if you can get a gas welder IMO it would be better especially something in the 230 volt range. The reason I say this is because it's the suspension of the vehicle. The entire weight of the vehicle is counting on your welds. If you use a cheap welder and don't make good penetration and something breaks, that'll suck...really bad. Stick would work as well. Clean the surface, use 7018 rods, not that crappy 6011 or 6010 and you should be good.

A arms are what mount from the frame to the tires (kinda) and move up and down . The coils go on top of the bottom one and mounts to the frame in a coil bucket. I'm really bad at explaing stuff but just go look at the truck and you'll see what i'm talking about.

Oh btw this is the welder I have and I love it, I picked it up used for 450 with tank, wire, and cart.

[thirdstreettito]

Thanks, heh I meant was the "+" for something... I know what A-Arms are...
I have a tiny budget, would an arc(stick) welder be good for patch panels as well as fab work? Is it cheaper? Also, is gas cheaper to run than electric? Does it matter?

[sandking]

The + in the a-arm was referring to a longer then stock arm. This would allow for more travel and coilover mounting options.
Personally, I would not use anything smaller then a 175, 230 volt welder. The small 110 volt welders just do not give the penetration needed for suspension components. The gas is in addition to the electric.

[Jtrux]

Originally Posted by thirdstreettito

Thanks, heh I meant was the "+" for something... I know what A-Arms are...
I have a tiny budget, would an arc(stick) welder be good for patch panels as well as fab work? Is it cheaper? Also, is gas cheaper to run than electric? Does it matter?

No arc welding if for for heavy duty welding. You could probably tac something together with tiny welding rods but you're just wasting your time. Neither is really cheaper in the long run.

I don't think you understand the gas versus flux. When I say gas welder what I mean is that the welder (which is powered by electricity) uses a gas shielding wire (CO2 and Argon commonly) instead of a flux cored wire. Neither is cheaper to run.

Typically any modifications to a vehicle that requires lowering or lifting or any alterations especially on limited knowledge won't be cheap at all. Figure what you think it will cost and double it. If you're very experienced you can usually get the price down but part of learning to do these things take money. The reason I say this is cuz parts aern't cheap, paying someone to install them isn't cheap and tools to it isn't cheap. It's just how it is.

[thirdstreettito]

Thanks for the info. I want to buy a truck bed rack and cut it up and practice welding. What exactly would you recommend? It has to be cheap in price to buy, can do fab work, can do patch panel work too.

[Jtrux]

Originally Posted by thirdstreettito

Thanks for the info. I want to buy a truck bed rack and cut it up and practice welding. What exactly would you recommend? It has to be cheap in price to buy, can do fab work, can do patch panel work too.

Well if you're on a budget the Hobart 140(?, it's either 140 or close) is a 110 volt welder that will work for what you're doing, just practice. I still really recommend a 230 volt though. You can find the Hobart online all day on craigslist and you will occassionally see 230 volt Hobarts, Lincolns and Millers too but they will generally cost more.

But look into the 110 volt Hobart, either new or used, I think you would be happy with it.

[thirdstreettito]

Thanks! I think I will go with the 2" lift for the winter and lower (4/6) it the rest of the year.

[thirdstreettito]

One more thing, where can I get the right size springs?

[thirdstreettito]

http://raleigh.craigslist.org/tls/950977456.html

How about that second one?

[Jtrux]

You don't want either of those, first off they are overpriced and the second one is a stick welder, not good for body work.

I thinking lifting and lowering your truck during different times of the year would be alot of work.

[thirdstreettito]

Originally Posted by Jtrux

You don't want either of those, first off they are overpriced and the second one is a stick welder, not good for body work.

I thinking lifting and lowering your truck during different times of the year would be alot of work.

Thanks. Work doesnt bother me.

[MickMc]

Bradley

Do you already have the truck?

You seem to respond to every post, so you should know there is a way to get the lift without any welding or fabrication...

The lift is easy, next question.
I know you know the answer to your question , you seem to be leading the forum down some path of ???? I can't tell what..

Mick

[1969 GMC]

Originally Posted by thirdstreettito

Thanks. Work doesnt bother me.

I bet you $10 that swapping suspension components to match the seasons will get old (or that it never even gets executed). Buy a cheap running 4x4 to match your 2by.